Due to the late arrival times of several flights, Smiler’s team arrived in Mendoza a little later than expected and so the plans to get permits for the mountain that afternoon, were put back to the next morning. The team went shopping at the late night store instead.Permits and extra supplies in hand, midway through the next day saw the five team members in a local agent’s mini bus and heading for Los Penitentes,the gateway to Aconcagua. A pleasant drive through the Argentinean countryside established the team in the early evening. in a hotel in this small ski resort.The local agents, Fernando Grajeles, have worked with Smiler for many years and the organisation for the mountain was simple and effortless. That evening, loads were arranged for the mules being used to transport all the gear and food/equipment to base camp. Carefully selecting items required at Confluenca, and those items not required until base camp, the mule loads were organised and ready to go. Next morning after a leisurely breakfast, a company driver transported the team to the police post, at the start of the trek to base camp, at 4350 metres. Soon, the team were strolling in good but warm sunshine, carrying only essentials like water, fleece jackets and sun crème, along the beautiful Horcones valley heading for Confluenca. The mules would carry the rest of the supplies and equipment to base camp. Confluenca, an intermediate camping ground, is a very short (3 hour) hike from the roadhead. The team had arranged full services, food, drinks and tents for meals at both Confluenca and base camp, and given the many teams on the mountain at this time, it proved useful to have pre-arranged our camping locations and services beforehand.With the trek from Confluenca to base camp being quite long (nine to ten hours) an earlier start was taken for this walk. The trek passed along this long and broad valley in good sunshine and soon the team were climbing up the steeper tracks to the snow line, base camp being reached in good time. Smiler noted the lack of water in the rivers and streams as opposed to previous treks. Global warming?
The plan was to spend a rest day at base camp and acclimatise. Tents were erected close to the mess tent and the organisation of equipment, food and fuel for the mountain was started. This work continued the following day, with diversions to the hotel, about 30 minutes away from the base camp, for hot coffee and cakes.
With the weather reports indicating poorer weather being expected later that week, it was decided to alter the original (and normal) plan to go first to Canada camp, where the team would be stashing food and fuel for the higher camps. Missing out Canada was a good process as it established a higher altitude reached sooner. But it meant a harder first day on the mountain, carrying gear and food to Nido de Condores, at 5500 metres. Returning un-laden to base camp, the team prepared their loads, ready to leave for Nido the following day. The weather was staying good and spirits were high. A good rest was the order of the afternoon.The approach to the summit of Aconcagua calls for a system of ‘siege’ tactic. Leave base camp and carry food and fuel to a higher camp, returning to sleep at base camp that same night. Then tents would be packed and all other equipment carried to the same high camp, where tents would be re-erected and preparations for the supplies drop to the next high camp, the following day, would be made.Reaching Nido at 5500 metres for our night’s stay, the altitude was showing its presence but the team were proving their fitness and ability to acclimatise. Loads for the next (and final) camp, Berlin, at 5900 metres, were made ready. Nido was a bleak place with virtually no snow for water bottles and cooking fuel in close vicinity of the campsite. This meant a longer trip across to distant fields of Penitentes (ice fin fields) to get supplies for cooking and water bottles. All chores were done happily though and the prospects of being on the summit in two or three days were enticing.From Nido to Berlin, the terrain is the same but the effort is harder. It was decided after dropping the loads at Berlin and returning to Nido, a rest day would be useful. So relaxing was the order of the day, helped out by some warm sunshine, but temperatures dropping rapidly one the sun had gone down.Moving up to and into Berlin camp, the summit was now only one day away. With the team going well, precise preparations for the longest and hardest day were made. Once again, the lack of good, clean snow/ice near the campsite meant a lengthy trek to get the fuel for the vital water.With the weather staying good, the team were keen to push to the summit as soon as possible, along with many other teams who were moving in the same timescale. The trek to the summit involved some strenuous walking along a steepening track, before moving along and past Windy Corner then across the face of the mountain to the Canaletta. This easy-angled and wide gully is better if coated with snow, as opposed to loose screes, where it is believed the term ‘three up, two down’ came from. The snow in the Canaletta proved advantageous, and with crampons donned, the effort was less, not fully removed, but certainly easier.Reaching the summit, the cameras came out and everyone was very pleased and excited to be there. The weather had stayed good all day and the summit gave superb views of distant (and equally huge) snow peaks in Chile (volcanoes) which were noted for another trip maybe? After almost an hour on top, the team descended, but not now as one group, at the same time, and not without some difficulty in route finding. What had appeared a simple navigation exercise (i.e. follow the path?) led some members to pull away from others, and follow different paths, and this led to some anxiety back at Berlin camp until all the team members were safely re-united in the tents.Next morning, the team packed all supplies and equipment, and now with heavy loads, made the long descent all the way to base camp.Happily ensconced in BC, spirits were understandably high now, although the fatigue was showing through. The service provided by Fernando Grajales at base camp was superb and well received, plenty of good food and drinks, especially hot tea or cold orange.All that remained was the walk out through the Horcones valley. As usual, this was done in one very long day, stopping at Confluenca briefly for food and drinks. Back at the park gate, after signing out and returning garbage receipts, the team were soon picked up by the agent and transported back to the hotel in Los Penitentes. Relaxing and by now in clean clothes, the urge to get back to Mendoza, for the civilisation, wine and steaks, was very apparent.The journey back from los Penitentes seemed quicker, and soon the delights of Mendoza were being examined. There was an extra day in town as a result of a great mountain itinerary performance and the wine and superb meals flowed. Even the packing and eventually, Mendoza airport seemed less trouble than normal.
It was a bleak and wet Heathrow that was returned to and the team separated with warm feeling, and looking forwards to the photos that would be sorted and distributed eventually to everyone. A very successful expedition was over.
The barren Horcones valley, Berlin Camp, Berlin camp before the summit push, Leaving for the summit, Chris and Sandra on the summit, Bill, Sandra and David on the summit, Returning to Berlin Camp after the summit , In the ‘real’ Los Penitentes.
It was 1943, imagine twenty, heavily clad heroes crawling quietly through the snow to the Heavy water plant at Rjukan. Laying explosives, they retreated to safety and then ‘BOOM’! The deadly industry was put out of action.
