Smiler Cuthbertson - Mountain Guide

Bill’s course was always going to be a tough one. He has been improving as a climber over the last few years and his objectives this Alpine season were considerable. We would spend quite a time in Switzerland, hopefully achieving success on several big peaks.
Last year, Angelo was with us and we had unsuccessfully tried a very snowy traverse of the Aiguille Crochures, for their first outing. Angelo had not been very fit and we reluctantly had turned back before the ridge.
So it was an ideal opportunity for Bill to complete an unfinished project. In addition to that traverse we even completed the Index in our big boots first.
There was still plenty of time to reach the Office before the World Cup Final kicked off.
Next morning we drove over to Switzerland, intending to spend the rest of the eight day course on the big peaks of Zinal. The main targets were the Zinal Rothorn and the Obergabelhorn, a big target indeed. But it was worth a shot.
The walk up to the Cabane du Mountet is a real grind. Four and a half hours in the guidebook, we only just got under that time. It had been very hot all day and the free water at the hut was very welcome. It is a very nice hut and we settled down to a lengthy stay and some great climbs.
Other British guides were there so a very social evening ensued.
I wanted to warm up on something before going for the big ones. The big peak which overlooks the entire walk up to the hut is the Besso, and so the plan was to follow the south west ridge then continue along the rocky and then snowy ridge of the Blanc de Moming peak, just about the same height and six to seven hours in all.
It was a great climb and now we we’re ready for something bigger.
The climbing got even better. The north ridge of the Zinal Rothorn was really great. Up and down the same way, Bill was excellent on the rock and we were back at the hut in a very good time.
We learnt from the hut guardian that the Coeurgrat Ridge on the Obergabelhorn, our intended route from the Mountet Hut, was in difficult condition and worse still, there was no easy way back to the Mountet Hut. So we decided to go down from this hut and move over to the other side, to Zermatt, and up to the Rothorn Hut, climbing the Obergabelhorn via the Wellenkuppe.
Before going down, we did try the Trifthorn, a peak which had caught Bill’s eye. Unfortunately, the snow conditions were dreadful, even after an early start for the three hours or so to the top. By the time I had gone part way into maybe ten crevasses, I had had enough. So we turned back, still a good hour from the summit. Conditions have vastly changed over the years here.
Going down from the hut, we decided it was just as easy to return to Argentiere, to some comforts, and then return to Zermatt next morning. So I had a welcome shower and change of clothes, and a good sleep in my apartment.
In two hours next morning, we were parking the car at Tasch. In Zermatt for the first time, Bill experienced the throngs of Japanese and even McDonalds. The long slog up to the Rothorn hut is noted in earlier guidebooks and we were very glad to reach the hut in under guidebook time.
The Obergabelhorn over the Wellenkuppe was terrific. Following Uli and Stephan, a guide and client from Austria, all the way, we motored up the ridge in great style and time. The descent in the early afternoon was not so nice and an earlier idea of snatching the Trifthorn on the way down was soon discounted.
Back at the hut, Bill having done his big routes, we decided there was not too much to stay there for, so we descended to Zermatt with sore feet and weary knees, and drove back to Argentiere for a welcome rest and some good food.

Sean and Stuart arrived for what can only be called, not a Mont Blanc express, more of a Mont Blanc lightning. Allowing only three days for their visit, I wondered how these two guys would fare. Their military background could however assist them but, acclimatisation is so very important. They were happy to give it a real try and the first of the three days was spent traversing the Aiguille Crochures. I could see that Stuart was not quite as fit as Sean but we were bonding as a good team, so Mont Blanc here we come.
We caught the first cable car to Bellevue, and managed to get on the first tram to the Eagles nest. Hiking up the trail in very warm weather, the route was already a strain on the lads. After changing into crampons for the climb up to the traverse across the couloir, we set off slowly across the snow. Stuart had been having real difficulty keeping up the steady but still slow pace up the rocky buttress to the gearing up point, and now with the higher altitude, decided enough was enough. He reluctantly turned around while it was still safe to do so alone. We were disappointed to see him go.
Now as a pair, I stepped up the pace and, with the couloir pretty safe, we were soon up the ridge and at the hut. Sean was going very well and I could see no problem in him reaching the summit. However, the weather was threatening next morning. Very cold and decidedly windy, it was going to be a very tough day. We left the hut around three thirty and slotted into the queue of Mont Blanc climbers. We were not going very fast but were consistent and slowly and surely we made height. Many teams turned back that morning, and a few teams overtook us. We reached the summit around seven thirty and found ourselves almost alone, except for two Americans. It was a surreal situation, virtually no visibility and very, very cold. My camera simply would not function in that temperature and the camera Sean had, froze after only one photograph, which unfortunately for him, was of me.

That shot also captured the Americans and luckily for Sean, the American guide also took shots which included us. These photographs we have subsequently exchanged.
The way down was as usual quite tedious but Sean did very well and we were eventually back at the Eagles Nest. The cold and windy weather had now changed into a real storm and the lightning resulted in a delay for the cable car, and a frustrating yet at the same time pleasant time in the cafe at the Bellevue.
This short course over, I look forward to seeing the boys up in Scotland, as they are determined to do some ice climbing with me next winter.