Smiler’s Alpine Summer September 07
August 27th – September 2nd – Danny arrived from Omaha Nebraska (flat as a opancake) with the usual problem, he just hadn’t had the time to get really fit, or to do any climbing in the States. So I set out a plan to get him acclimatised, with some rock climbing on the Aiguille Rouge, in the good weather planned for Monday 27th.
27th – The weather was glorious for a change, and we drove down to Chamonix and up to the Brevent car park. The lift was working and full of walkers and tourists heading for the summit and the great walks the around the Brevent.
We shared to lift with Helen, a walking guide living in Switzerland. She warned us the path from the summit to Plan Praz could be closed. In the event the path obstruction was lower down and we were able to make our way to the foot of one of the many two or three pitch ridges that litter the side of the valley here. Our route had been created by local guides, utilising necessary bolt protection and thus creating great routes which otherwise would be virtually unprotectable. Called Les Samoniem, this went at French 4c/5a max. and in five pitches. Not so difficult for Danny and we had plenty of time to go for a second route called Crackacoa. This time leaving my rucksack hidden in some rocks, we dropped down even lower from the summit and located the start. Rob Wills had taken Amanda up this route a few days before and there was some interesting talk about the 6b pitch. I was fired up to get this pitch under my belt.The first few pitches were 4b and 4c so Danny had little trouble. However, the 6b pitch needed a string attitude from me but I was delighted to not need to pull on anything. An overhanging fingers layback with some awkward foot placements necessary. A good tick! Danny watched and didn’t fancy the pitch so, as the alternative was a lower grade (4c) I abed down and removed the quickdraws. Moving past an awkward move on the variation, I was soon belaying Danny around the corner. This awkward move proved still too tricky for Danny so he bypassed this and lowered down to the sloping hillside, and scrambled up to meet me as I abbed off the bolt. We continued in three pitches to the summit ridge and made our way to the cable car station. A very good start for Danny, about a dozen pitches. He was enjoying the rock climbing.
August 28th - The great weather of yesterday had vanished somewhere and a light rain was falling in Argentiere. It meant a mountain route was not on, so we made our way to the great rock climbing area of the Aravis and Columiere, over the cols of the same names. We were heading for the route called Voie de Dalles, on the Petite Bargy, a line of huge slabs one can see from the autoroute when coming up to Chamonix from Geneva.
It was quite a walk and I hadn’t expected it, but anyway we reached the cliffs and set out to find the start. I knew that the nine pitches weren’t too hard, 4cs and 5as, but we’d have to move fast to get off before the forecasted storm (including lightning), arrived in the late afternoon. Danny was up for the task and we made good progress on the route, the route finding not too simple. It was getting to the time when the weather was supposed to breask and sure enough, looking south to Geneva, I could see the rain clouds building up. I was concerned about lightning but there was only one Flash bang. It was close enough though. I’d just done about half of the eighth pitch when the squall I’d been watching hit us with a vengeance. Torrential rain soaked us and the crag for over ten minutes. I had just time to get back to Danny on the stance and we quickly sorted an abseil out. Seven abs later we were back at the sacks and fortunately, the storm had finished.Looking back at the slabs as me made our way down the track to the car, I vowed I’d return and tackle some more climbs on this impressive crag.
August 29th and 30th – The bad weather was back with us and both days were rained off. We spent time checking the Col de Columbia, Col des Aravis, looking for rock climbs that might be doable in this wet period. We were not too successful.
All the time, the high mountain routes were getting loaded with fresh avalanche snow.so there was little chance this season of Danny getting a big route in.
August 31st – In somewhat improving weather we drove again down towards Annecy and today were awarded some sunshine and dry rock. We had decided to climb the via ferrata above Thones, north of Annecy, as this would be the first time Danny would experience this wonderful activity. We had a great time, swinging around on steep, sometimes overhanging rock, all the time clipped safely to the metal rungs and wire safety rope.Towards the end of the afternoon, we made our way to Annecy and Bernards house. Bernard is my log time friend who runs a horticultural business, providing all the flowers for Annecy and district. He is always happy to so see me again and relishes the suggestions I make to climb rock together. My plan was to complete a dream I’ve had for several years, do a route on the massive cliff of Mont Aiguille, south of Grenoble. So we drove down, picked Bernard up and drove south to the Vercors. Danny had a couple of days left before his flight home and he was also keen for this big rock climb. We arrived late in the evening but with a Frenchman aiding communication and map–reading, the evening meal and accommodation, in the small but beautiful hotel near Mont Aiguille, and set in the deep forests of the Vercors region, was a wonderful experience.
September 1st – With Danny not as in form for the harder rock climbing expected on this nine pitch route called Voie des Gemeaux, I elected to have Bernard lead all the way and I would climb alongside and above Danny, giving him advice and assistance if required on the more tricky moves. This idea proved useful on a couple of tricky pitches, but overall, the route was brilliant, around Hard VS but not too hard for that grade. The summit plateau was quite warm compared to the lower climbing, as a cool wind apparently often blows around this majestic peak. We were soon abseiling (one quite amazingly free) and making our way down the long track to the car park. Driving back north to stay in Annecy with Bernard and Chantel, his lovely partner, I felt pleased we had been able to complete this adventure, and I will surely be back one day.
September 2nd – Danny was happy with what he had done this trip. No big mountain routes but some great rock climbing, and so his last day was to be a less active one. With Bernard and Chantel along with us, we drove back to
Chamonix and to les Praz, for a day on the slabs of the Grande Floria. Athena was our choice for a nice but steady and day the sun granted us a great day.
With his vacation over, Danny left for Omaha and I drove back through France to the ferry at Zeebrugge. I stopped overnight in San Quentin, in a wonderful two star hotel and knew I would be back there some time.
Another season over, this time with no incidents and some great climbing. I’m already taking bookings for next season and am looking forward to more adventures with clients.