Smiler Cuthbertson - Mountain Guide

Returning from my (now) annual Rjukan, I always feel stronger and, after all the steep ice antics this great location gives you, it’s time to sample the Scottish winter weather and climbing scenes in the Highlands once again.

The weather was certainly warmer than Norway, with many of the classic routes in Corrie An-t Sneachda already (and unseasonal) bare of snow, let alone ice. Dan and Paul were due up for three days with me and after last season, they were ready for the routes. We started off by warming up on The Runnell (II), along with several of the parties in the corrie. It was a good chance to show the lads the belays and how they are placed.

sometimes not possible to see how many parties will be with you, but I was not surprised when at least six or seven teams were having the same idea. All went smoothly however, and after a nice climb, we topped out and descended the Goat Track. There was still time for a quick route so we moved across to the bottom of Spiral gully (II). Moving together was a fairly new experience for the lads, but with conditions perfect and the snow sound, a great finish to the day ensued.

Next morning saw us in the corrie again, but in not such clear weather today. I wanted to take Dan and Paul on something harder today and chose the Fiacaill Couloir (II). Lower down, and in the mist, it’s

 With new skills and enthusiasm, next morning I drove the lads to the dam car park in the alt a’Mhuilinn and set off for the Ben. The weather was continuing warm, so we wanted to go fairly high today, to catch some of the remaining good conditions. There were plenty of good routes still being climbed above the CIC hut level so we had a wide choice. Leaving the hut around 10am the slog up into Corrie na Ciste was easier today on the snow-free track. Soon we were back on the snow but the tracks were hard and yet comfortable. The mist made me concentrate on our heading to No. 2 Gully. After a short while something much more interesting caught my eye, as the base of the Comb Buttress emerged out of the mist.

Green Gully looked fantastic, we had to do this. I knew after my many ascents of this route, the lads would be fine, so we were soon roping up at the foot of the initial ice pitch. Two lads were already on that pitch and we got chatting, looking forward to a great climb. And it was. The first three pitches giving steep but great climbing with the ice something like hard butter. The final hard pitch is akin to the ‘Rouge’ pitch on Point Five, and not very much easier. Steeper ice on the right-hand side was being tackled by some Polish climbers, so our British friends sneaked up the less-steep left-hand side and were away. I waited and then took a mid-line across and up the easier angled ice, and was soon stepping easily up the snow slope to the Poles. More chatting, a little waiting and sharing belays, and soon Dan and Paul were moving together on the one rope up the steep ice to our belay. Glorious climbing. Straightforward steps took us up the final long pitch and out onto the top. All that was left was the descent down the Zigzags and across the Halfway Lochan to the car at the dam.

Thoroughly satisfied, the lads want more, but ‘those who must be obeyed’ need to be consulted before too many, regular winter journeys from the south are created. However, I look forward to seeing the lads in the Alps this summer.

The Runnell (II)

 Stances were cut, nuts and pegs placed and removed, and soon I was happy for the lads to do some leading of their own. We topped out with time to spare so crossed over to the col beyond the Mess of Pottage Buttress and descended the easy snow slopes to the bottom of Jacob’s Ladder (I). Sharing the leads, the lads pitched the route very nicely to the top, ever conscious of my watchful eyes as they set their belays up. Excellent work.

 

 

 

On Krokan one of the steep routes left of Bolgen

With conditions at the end of January being quite good here in the Highlands, I did wonder whether I was making the right move going to Rjukan again at this time in a Scottish winter?

With conditions at the end of January being quite good here in the Highlands, I did wonder whether I was making the right move going to Rjukan again at this time in a Scottish winter?

My third trip to the icefest capital of Europe was also to be my second Climbers’ Club meet and I was organising and running this. I did have my friend and client, Steve, to guide on the ice routes, while the meet was running. So any lingering doubts about missing good Scottish snow and ice were pushed to the back of the importance chart. I wasn’t to be disappointed.

Prestwick was full of climbers again for the flight to Oslo Torp. This went OK after squeezing the sports bag and its 34kg of various (climbing gear honest!) equipment, together with my hold bag weighing much less than usual, onto the conveyor. All for an extra £25 each way - a steal (when you consider what was in the bag - ropes, tools, footfangs, karabiners, quick draws, clothes, dried food, whisky and more!

The long ramp pitch on Bakveien

As always, a warm-up was required, and Steve went straight in at the deep steep end with the excellent Svingfoss (WI 4). Situated right next to the road, the approach time is zero, but I warned Steve, the guidebook suggests all climbs are graded one level down from Scottish winter grades. So the first ice route he did was a Scottish 5!

We also did several other, steeper lines at WI4 & WI5, and one could make Svingfoss slightly easier by finishing on the left, rather than the very steep pillar at the top, and other hanging pillars of ice close-by could be fun-climbed on a top-rope as well. A great start.

In the afternoon we made our way to Krokan, where Bolgen, and the two or three steeper lines to its left were all ascended. The day finished with some falling snow, but Steve was happy to have had his induction day.

The week passed by too quickly for me. Visits to the Vermork Bridge and Upper gorge area were my personal favourites, especially the superb Bakveien, a 3-pitch WI4 with some superb and astonishing situations passed through. I looked in envy at the fabulous pillar of Nye Vermokfoss (WI 5 and three big pitches) just to our right. I felt slightly easier climbs would be more useful at this stage for Steve, and having done the route last year, the ice texture was definitely different, much more brittle, harder. It didn’t pose too much of a problem on Bakveien though, and we were soon moving along the Museum fence track back to the bridge and the car. The Ozzimosis crag also proved a great venue, with the ice warming up slightly towards the end of the week, giving more palatable ice climbing.

Steve managed some great routes as a second, and even excelled at the sharp end on several climbs (one a 4-pitch WI2) by the end of the week, and his skills and confidence were firmly implanted, he looks forward to more!

The Climbers’ Club Meet, with twenty members and guests attending, was a great success, especially as everyone mingled and socialising together at the Rjukan Gjestegård hostel, this accommodation much better suited for a get-together than the individual, four-person chalets we have used for two years previously. The final get-together pizza party on Friday evening at Rjukan Hytteby Restaurant was especially good fun. With many of the Meet members now having been twice to Rjukan, maybe a change for 2010 is on the cards? But it’s so good here and so handy, who knows?

I stayed on at Rjukan for a couple more days after the CC Meet had finished, and Gaute from Oslo City arrived on the Saturday morning, to have his two-day induction to ice climbing. Svingfoss, Krokan and Ozzimosis all gave Gaute a good insight into the world of the steep water ice climber. Driving back to Oslo on Sunday night with Gaute, I marvelled at the beautiful scenery and woodland, all covered in a thick coating of snow.

One more day in Oslo doing the shops, museums and parks, then it was back to Prestwick, to the Highlands, and to see what I’ve missed?

Tell you later!

Rjukan January 31^st - February 7^th 2009