Smiler Cuthbertson - Mountain Guide

No, I wasn’t playing 3-card Brag this week, although I did feel nearly flushed out with the warm and wet weather by the end of this period.

Bill came up on the train to the Fort, and with three objectives on the west coast over the next three days, I met him at the hostel,  early on Day 1 (Sunday) and we sped down to see what the Buachaille Etive Mor was like? It was blowing a hoolie, with very low visibility even as we drove up the ‘Coe.

A change was necessary. Annoch Dubh west face? No. 6 gully (IV)? Let’s have a look.

Parking at the new bridge we struck out up the river path and were soon wondering what the heck we were doing. It was dreadful weather. Sidelining No. 6 Gully and its potential for kayaking, we followed the

soft snow up towards Stob Corrie nan Beith. Claps of thunder instantly followed the flashes of lightning meant decisions were rapidly changed again. We broke trail up the steep ground (should be a track under here somewhere?) heading for a hike over into the Stob Corrie nan Lochan basin and down the Lost valley.

It wasn’t long before sense saw the light and we headed back across the base of nan Beith until we were sure there was an easy descent back down the corrie to the car. Not a good start, but a nice fire in the Clachaig warmed us up.

Off to my place at Loch Ness.

A better forecast on Monday for the north-west saw us driving over to Ullapool early next morning. The new roads make a heck of a difference to timing and within an hour or so, we turned north at this pretty fishing port and then again west towards our intended peak - Stac Pollaidh.

This was a good choice for a blustery, and frequent snow/hail-stormed day, a winter traverse of Stac Pollaidh. Great fun, up, over and down the pinnacles, occasionally veering around the more difficult steps. Reaching the west summit, we back-tracked a short distance, then carefully descended the famous rocky step, and from the col, climbed our way down some slabs on the south side until we were in the  large open and easy gully overlooking the car park. This was Bill’s first visit to the North-West Highlands and already he’d had a great day. To finish off we drove west and then north, and with the weather clearing somewhat, I was able to point out some of the ‘big beasts’, Suillvan, Slioch, Ben Mor  Assynt,  Cul Mor, Cul Beg, and many more of these majestic peaks.

Off to my place at Loch Ness.

The Cairngorms forecast for weather and conditions on Tuesday looked best, so we walked the familiar track into Sneachda. Instead of the usual climbs on the face, we continued, up the Goat Track, over and down Corrie Domhain, swinging left under what should have been Cascade (V1). It was all rock! Afterthought Arête (III) proved our consolation. Crampons needed for the corrie descent were packed away at the foot of the arête and 150 meters of superb climbing gave us a great climb. Heading north at the top of the arête,  we slogged up and across to the top of Jacob’s ladder and down the Fiachaill of Corrie Casse to the ski car park. With the sun now full in our faces, we drove past Meagaidh to the Fort, where Bill took his return train to the south.

After a day at the Inverness climbing wall, I was back in the ‘Gorms on Thursday. David hadn’t managed to get much winter climbing done so far this year, and by now, the conditions weren’t ideal for good stuff. However, his one-day off needed to be utilised!

I chose a route that I was sure would give us good sport in most conditions, rock or snow/ice. It would be the first time I’d actually finished the true Finger’s Ridge (IV/V) and it was so good! Superb but easy moves, even in crampons on rock, and so well protected, I wondered why I hadn’t snapped this route up many times before?

I noted to myself ‘I’ll do this again!’

Anne came over on Friday and we walked up into Sneachda once again. What to do? With quite a few of the main gully lines still complete but getting poorer by the day, I opted for a repeat of Finger’s Ridge. Again it was brilliant. Dainty rock climbing in crampons, it was never like this on the Eiger (oh yes it was!). Anne returned to Aberdeen leaving me with just a couple more days in the mountains before a break.

Saturday morning saw John from London arriving on the night train at Aviemore, dressed ready for the walk-up into the corrie. With the weather having drastically warmed up, the rail was falling, but climbs were still possible. We made short work of The Runnell (II) and dropping down the Goat track, I again swung rightwards and finished a wet off with a rapid ascent of Goat track Gully (II). We both hoped for better weather on the morrow?

A much drier day emerged with Sunday morning and with John happy to try anything which would get him back into ‘crampons on rock’ climbing, I re-climbed the Finger’s Ridge with him, now three out of four days running. By this time (of the week) the snow was almost non-existent on the ridge, but it was still very good climbing. A little looser than of late, so I decided after this ascent I’d put it to bed until next year, or until conditions got cold and snowy again - maybe?

John and I dropped down the Goat track and veered left until under Fiachaill Couloir (II). A break for a ‘pie’ and tea from the flask, and we were soon romping up the well used steps towards the final chockstone pitch. Memories of Bill and I previously struggling to aid climb this steep rocky pitch were fortunately not to be repeated as the line was well-banked up and after a few steep feet, just a stroll. We descended via the Fiachaill Ridge to cap a great day. John retired to his ‘sleeper’ and home to Loch Ness.

What’s that Beatles’ song - `Eight days a week´?

Smiler!

Hells-lum-The Chancer (VI)

Is this winter never going to end? I hope not! Yet another great two days, this time with Richard.

Over to Hells Lum on Saturday, as I’d heard the Chancer (VI) had been done last week. Are we too late? We will see.

Richard and I climbed up the Goat track and on across to Hells Lum. The snow was thick but soft and the day was warm and reasonable (for summer rock climbing).

It would be Richard’s first route on the ‘Lum’ and if the Chancer was in, we’d have a look. That was as far as we got, looking! A detached first pitch, menacing chandeliers all around the second pitch. Not today,  Jose!

Richard, taking the lead, made short work of the steep ice (a little soft by now) of the Hells Lum Gully (ii) and we were soon re-crossing the plateau and back down the Goat track. The forecast was for colder conditions and more snow on the morrow.

Hells Lum - the steep lower pitch

I met up again with Richard at Aonoch Mor Gondola station on Sunday morning and the east face beckoned us. Unfortunately, the lift operators were only allowing staff to take the four-man chair, as it was too windy for the public to use it(?). There were around thirty climbers making the long trudge up from the Gondola station that morning, and I lagged a little behind by the time some (but not all) of the younger climbers had crested the ridge. There was some snow in the air and it was quite windy. We decided we wanted a fairly quick and uneventful day today.

Down Easy Gully and across to Left Twin. It looked good, and I hoped for firm snow/ice.

The initial pitch was straightforward and I soon had Richard in the in-situ gear on the stance. Now the big pitch. Slightly irritated by another leader catching me up, then climbing alongside and past me, I switched off from him and gradually made height on this long but superb pitch. Four screws and a good tape sling for runners and I trended left after the steep section to a good-sized block for my belay. As I brought Richard up, I watched as a guy led a right-hand variant to Left Twin, looking much steeper and Grade IV, apparently? My Grade III was enough for today.

Aonach Mor - Left twin (III)

Richard climbed smoothly as usual on this pretty steep but solid pitch. He took over the leading for the easier and recently-travelled top pitch to the summit plateau, placing a good Deadman runner near the finish, this just in case there were problems at the cornice? This proved unfounded but I was happier anyway.

The wind had dropped on the plateau but everything was quite damp now. Time to head down for an early bath.

Poor weather, more snow, lower temperatures, all to come next week. Great news!