Back on the rock!
Monday morning blues? Not us!
Anne drove west and met me in Inverness and we sped off to check out a crag (new to me). What have I been doing? Why had I not climbed here before?
Jetty Buttress, on Gruinard Bay. Access was less than it takes to get from the car to Tescos. However, it WAS raining most of the way across, and I had doubts on its proclaimed ‘fast to dry’ guidebook statement?
After so many treks up to the Ben this season, it was a delight to step out of a car and rope up, lightly clad and in rock shoes, at last!
With the car parked conveniently on the grassy verge opposite, we scrambled easily up to check out the V.Diffs and Severes noted in the guidebook. These were all higher up and to the left of the main face, which is quite impressive for a small crag.
As with the longer routes on the front, the shorter, more scrappy-looking climbs that we wanted to warm up on were wet and we waited and watched the breeze do its stuff, the weather improving now the rain had ceased. Soon enough, it was no longer possible to wait, so we chose a climb called Route 4 (VS 4c) , 
which looked reasonably, even if steep? The guidebook says ‘Strenous, a little wet in the back does not affect the standard’. No-one mentioned cold fingers and tricky thrutching up a wet and overhanging chimney!
I got up it but not without some concerns. Anne was quiet on her ascent!
Ok, then. If that’s the way this crag is going to greet me, I’ll take it easier from now on.
With some sunshine trying to get through, the front face and its longer routes looked more inviting. Lily the Pink (H.S. 4a) was a dream. 
Lovely incuts and ample protection. This was what we came for. We followed that by the classic of the crag - Anthax Flake (VS 4c) - and although it is very steep at one section, the jugs on the warmer rock, now dry, gave the route some ambience and both Anne and I thought it was a super route.
Now getting into the latter half of the afternoon, I opted for one more route before driving back. Route II (VS 4b) didn’t please us too much as a final climb of the day. The line wasn’t too clear and one could wander into harder ground if not 
careful. I opted for the more obvious left-hand alternative (the book said - 4c - poorly protected). but it seemed marginally better than the line further right. I may have been getting a little tired but it did seem harder than 4c (I’ll go back on a warm sunny summer day and re-do it!)
All in all, a great little crag and the central, front wall with the longer and harder routes, looks a magnet for me when better weather comes later in the season.
A great day out.
Smiler.