July 31st to August 2nd
Norway has some high peaks so Norwegian clients have an edge for quick trips, because they can acclimatise on many circa 2000metre peaks. Gaute had been on Mont Blanc last year with me and we’d had to spend three nights at the Gouter hut, trying so much to get that break in the poor weather, to go for the top. We’d been as far as the Dôme du Gouter but visibility was so bad, we had a hard enough time getting back to the hut. Now, 2009 was to be the time. A three-day quick trip just for Mont Blanc.
The traverse from the Cosmiques Hut was chosen because it would leave us with an easier means of booking a hut after seeing the good weather forecast. I had a dreadful time at the refuge. During the evening meal I suddenly fell ill. I couldn’t even eat my meal! That was a first! Leaving the table I slunk off into my bunk and tried to figure out what was wrong. Shivering, sweating, it must have been a flu chill.
A plan to wake up at midnight was in jeopardy. But how was I to deal with Gaute’s disappointment? All that way and effort, only for his guide to drop out?
Magnificent alpine morning on Col Brenva
Midnight arrived and I felt there was a chance. I had to try. Breakfast even went well! Boots on and suddenly all was good: Once out in the cold temperatures of the Col du Midi at 1am I felt OK. Five and a half hours later we’d done it. And in a good, fast time. It was a glorious summit day, clear and cold, but not too bad, and after photos and
Gaute on the summit
drinks, we set off down the Bosses Ridge for the Gouter Hut.
There was now no problem in getting down and across the couloir before the stonefall danger became more acute, so it was a happy pair that sauntered into Argentiere and to the Office bar, for a quick beer before hitting the showers.
Gaute was elated with summiting Mont Blanc, and, with plans in Geneva he could now get off in the morning. We drank well into the night until fatigue arrived. A great and rapid trip.
My alpine beginner’s course is next. Martine from Paris had booked on the course, and was intending to climb the Matterhorn with Henri, but after the accident on Monte Rosa, she has pulled out of the Mont Blanc course, and it was already seriously under booked. Paul will now have me to himself until Dan arrives. We’ll do some great climbing though, I’m sure. Tell you how it went later.
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