Summer Alps 2009

The Blumlisalphorn
August 30th & 31st
Murray and I had just one more joint venture, the Blumlisalphorn from a hut a long way above Kandersteg. Iain, David and Rachel had booked their trip up this 3, 600 metre peak and, because of the technical nature another guide was needed, so Murray had offered as he was still in the area with me.

A lengthy walk-in
The five-hour walk to the hut in the hot sun was trying, but we took our time and felt OK on reaching the Blumlisalp Hut, superbly situated high on a col above the vast valleys surrounding the Kandersteg peaks.

The ice slope to the col
Our target used to be a straightforward snow climb to a col and then a rocky ridge with virtually no technical climbing, and protected by steel stakes every so often up the steeper sections. However, the global warming had left the snow slope as bare ice and some quite obvious stonefall danger if one was there at the wrong time.

The rock ridge
So we left early for the route and the day proved interesting, not too difficult, and the summit a splendid place adorned with a majestic Swiss cross. We descended the rock ridge in our own separate teams, but joined together to go down the steep and icy lower slopes to the flat glacier.

Rachel and David on the summit
Either Murray or I would lower the other guide first, who would place the ice screw belays and then all the clients would be lowered down to the stance. Murray and I would take it in turns to climb down without the top-rope to rejoin the team. Using two ropes tied together, we were able to descend a long distance down the ice in this manner, but it always put a slight strain on the last guide.

The team at the Blumlisalp hut
However, the slope was not steep enough to worry Murray or me too much, and we were soon back on the glacier route back to the hut. With ample time available at the hut, we rested and rehydrated before taking the lengthy descent back to our delightful campsite, via a gondola ride saving a convenient hour (both ways) to the lake at Large, this a pretty spot, well frequented by trekkers.

The hamlet of Large
The Matterhorn with Mark is next. I’m hoping for much better weather than of late. Tell you about it when we’re back.
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