Summer Alps 2009
September 3rd to 5th
Zermatt in Poor Weather
After two welcome rest days I made my way back to Zermatt to meet Mark, and looked topwards completintg our five- year wait to put to bed the Hornli Ridge However, arriving at the Bahnof, the peak was hidden in dark clouds and further conversations with the Bahnof manager gave me cause for concern. Lots of snow on the east face and doubtful weather for the next day. Mark had only three days booked with me, so conditions had to good (and soon). Unfortinately we woke to a very cloudy day, the peak not to be seen, and although the forecast was better for the next two days, I didn’t feel Mark had the experience to do the peak in anything other than perfect conditions, so I suggested returning to Argentiere and some much-needed rock climbing practice.
My first abseil
Arriving in Chamonix at mid-day, we went straight to the Guides’ Crag and had a successful training session on several of the easier routes.
Next morning we travelled to the Thermal Park at La Fayet near Sallanches and sampled the thin slab climbing there. The techniques for slab climbing were too much for Mark’s liking. My intentions had been to train for the easier, but much more demanding rock on the Matterhorn, so I still felt Mark had more to do before we eventually get to this peak, even in good weather.
Mark-striding the Aiguille Crochures ridge
Our final day together was not as successful as I’d have liked. I chose the traverse of the Aiguille Crochures and arriving at the point where one has to down-climb the easy, but steep, chimney there were several teams still waiting. A lengthy wait resulted, and our intention of also continuing to the summit of the Belvedere was now in doubt if we were to not have to rush back down this route to the Lac Blanc track and on to the Flegere station and cable car. With slopes of pure ice to traverse after the end of the Crochures Traverse, I did feel this was going to be awkward and slow, and Mark’s lack of rock climbing techniques could lead to a very slow ‘up and down’ climb and a possible (and disastrous) late finish so I steered Mark down to Lac Blanc. As it turned it, we did finish too early, but the decision had been made. I made a point to make it up to Mark on his next course with me.
Henri Bouillet 1958-2009
So the season ended on a not-so successful note but I packed the car, bought the wine, and made my way back home, accompanied by ‘Doris’.
Questions still remain about the reasons why Henri died - perhaps a needless accident or was there a misjudgement? However, nothing will bring this super chap back.
I’ll miss him terribly.
I’ll be back in the Alps next season and will avoid helicopters like the plague.
See you there?
Smiler - October 2009