July 5th to 10th - Henri Bouilett
When a friend and good climber dies, there is grief and always serious questions. Why was I not with him, to help? Could I have saved him? What went wrong?
Before my alpine programme had been filled, another guiding company had asked me to run a two-client course in Zermatt, over the splendid traverse over the Breithorn, Castor, Liskamm, and on to Monte Rosa’s high point, the Dufourspitz. However, at a late stage, a third client had booked.
A busy day on the Breithorn
The three clients were keen but not really experienced alpinists. In fact, one was on his first visit. Because of the guiding legalities, I had to have another guide for the new client, and Henri was keen. We’ve worked together for several years, ace French guide and an aging Brit. It always worked so well.
The traverse over the Breithorn is very straightforward, one of the easiest routes on any of the 4000metre peaks. However, the descent from the col was through deep and soft snow which was arguably strenuous to descend. Sean found it very hard going and soon showed signs of not being fit enough for the extended tour we were now embarking on. By the time we reached the Ayas d’Guides’
Liam and Gary on Pollux
develop for a while. We re-ascended to the Zwillingsjoch col
Pollux-summit ridge
and by that time I knew we weren’t going over Castor and on. I discussed the situation with Henri and the three clients, saying it was a wiser move to climb Pollux today, return to Zermatt, get a good rest and good food, and attack Monte Rosa by the far easier normal route from the Monte Rosa Hut in two days time.
The Dufourspitz - Monte Rosa
The trek from the Gornergrat railway was simple enough and soon we were all ensconced in the hut. Next morning at 3am, we set off for the summit. Four hours later, we had barely reached 3600metres and I was concerned. I had roped everyone up as a group of five for safety reasons with the complexed crevasses existing this season and it would keep us all in one group, with Sean not going as well as
The Dufourspitz summit
the other clients? Henri was happily leading the team from the front but I stopped the group at around 7am and suggested Sean and I should go back to the hut.
Next thing I knew I had received a devastating phone call at the Monte Rosa Hut. Henri had fallen and been killed.
Henri had successfully taken both clients to the summit at 11.30 but one client had a problem on the descent. He apparently had suffered badly from the altitude and found himself unable to move off an exposed and large block a little way down from the summit. Henri eventually called for a helicopter rescue.
Disaster struck during the helicopter lift and Henri had fallen to his death. The exact sequence of events is still unclear and Henri’s partner is not only left with a devastating loss but also a pursuit to find the facts of this accident or helicopter
Henri Bouillet (1958-2009)
mismanagement.
I was in the Monte Rosa Hut with Sean when I received the 3pm phone call , with the devastating news. Thanks to Jim, a friend and British colleague who had recently arrived at the hut, a lift for myself and Sean and I was secured in a helicopter which was working on the new Monte Rosa hut in the area. We were in the police station, back in Zermatt within the hour.
A devastating period. I will miss Henri so much. I need to get back to Chamonix as soon as I can.
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