Smiler Cuthbertson - Mountain Guide

August 3rd to 15^th

Client bookings for my 9-day Beginners course including the ascent of Mont Blanc proved sparse this year. The credit-crunch effect? Who knows? This year I welcomed Paul, whose friend Dan would join us later, and both of them had climbed in the Highland winter with me. Martine, a client of Henri’s was to join the course but she cancelled as she had no fire in her now Henri was gone. With it being too late to cancel Paul, we climbed as a 1:1, arguably a little less hectic than with the bigger groups. We did have a lot of fun though. Doing most of the set course routes and also

The real summit Gran Paradiso

doing the Gran Paradiso. Dan joined us for the Mont Blanc ascent and it was a splendid affair. We left the Nid d’Aigle station and reached the Gouter Hut at 1pm. The

Mont Blanc Paul and Dan

weather was splendid and a very good forecast so at 2pm, we carried on. We reached the summit at 6.30pm and were back in the hut by 9.30pm.

A great day and we were now able to turn over in our bunks when the crowds woke and then left for their summit at 3am.

The descent was superb at 7am, cold, clear and stonefall free. A better end to a period dominated by a bitter experience, lurking in the background throughout

July 31^st to August 2^nd

Norway has some high peaks so Norwegian clients have an edge for quick trips, because they can acclimatise on many circa 2000metre peaks. Gaute had been on Mont Blanc last year with me and we’d had to spend three nights at the Gouter hut, trying so much to get that break in the poor weather, to go for the top. We’d been as far as the Dôme du Gouter but visibility was so bad, we had a hard enough time getting back to the hut. Now, 2009 was to be the time. A three-day quick trip just for Mont Blanc.

The traverse from the Cosmiques Hut was chosen because it would leave us with an easier means of booking a hut after seeing the good weather forecast. I had a dreadful time at the refuge. During the evening meal I suddenly fell ill. I couldn’t even eat my meal! That was a first! Leaving the table I slunk off into my bunk and tried to figure out what was wrong. Shivering, sweating, it must have been a flu chill.

A plan to wake up at midnight was in jeopardy. But how was I to deal with Gaute’s disappointment? All that way and effort, only for his guide to drop out?

Magnificent alpine morning on Col Brenva

Midnight arrived and I felt there was a chance. I had to try. Breakfast even went well! Boots on and suddenly all was good: Once out in the cold temperatures of the Col du Midi at 1am I felt OK. Five and a half hours later we’d done it. And in a good, fast time. It was a glorious summit day, clear and cold, but not too bad, and after photos and

Gaute on the summit

 drinks, we set off down the Bosses Ridge for the Gouter Hut.

There was now no problem in getting down and across the couloir before the stonefall danger became more acute, so it was a happy pair that sauntered into Argentiere and to the Office bar, for a quick beer before hitting the showers.

Gaute was elated with summiting Mont Blanc, and, with plans in Geneva he could now get off in the morning. We drank well into the night until fatigue arrived. A great and rapid trip.

My alpine beginner’s course is next. Martine from Paris had booked on the course, and was intending to climb the Matterhorn with Henri, but after the accident on Monte Rosa, she has pulled out of the Mont Blanc course, and it was already seriously under booked. Paul will now have me to himself until Dan arrives. We’ll do some great climbing though, I’m sure. Tell you how it went later.

Smiler