More winter skills training then a day out with Steve
March 18th
It was a long shot - a one-day ascent of a gully on the Ben followed by a romp around the Carn Mor Dearg Arete.
Nothing came off. The weather forecast was awful for the west coast, so as Steve could manage it, a change of location was agreed.
Walking into Sneachda was pretty horrific as well, and we both struggled to compete with the deep snow and the incredible wind. At one point I was actually lifted over 10ft to my left before being deposited, thank goodness in the deepening snow. Steve wasn’t faring much better either.
I had some idea of what to go for, but on reaching the corrie floor, all ideas of a gully or buttress waned.
We had just started to walk out when the West Coast boys appeared. Mike’s first words..”Why is it always so windy in the ‘Gorms”, gave some indication of concern, but true to his strength and nature, he forged past Steve and I and headed for some horrow-show day.
I couldn’t let the East Coast down so about turned and followed his nice tracks until we caught his party up.
“What are you going for”, I asked.
“Not too sure. Fluted Buttress Direct is worth a shot” he said and then added,
“Andy (Nisbet) is behind us and coming soon”.
I looked forward to seeing the cheery face of the ice guru somewhere on the crag later, but first it was decision time. What on earth to do? Mike’s military background (and size) meant he at least stayed on the ground when walking whereas Steve and I were being blown about like nobody’s business, and I wasn’t to happy with the avalanche possibilities anyway.
Aladdin's Mirror Direct
Steve had done very little steep ice so the Mirror direct would provide a bit of fun?
As we wandered through the gloom into Aladdin’s Mirror itself, it was clear the Direct was pretty short with the build-up of snow, maybe 20 ft on the front and half that on the right, this the way most people tackle this steep little so and so.
Aladdins Mirror Direct
We waited for five minutes or so and with AN chomping at our heels, he doing our route as well, I got cracking with the climbing. Even with the shortness, it was still nice and steep, but after a few moves I was over the vertical and soon at the in-situ gear at the stance. While I was setting the belay up,
AN appeared in the centre of the ice, having swiftly despatched the harder line on the front. We chatted, while Steve got established on the ice and by the time he had reached me, AN and I had agreed no-one was going up the rest of the Mirror as planned. It was too serious.
Steve got lowered off and I abseiled, stringing my long ropes back up the easy couloir as we waded down together and we sat behind the largest boulder we could find (very ineffective cover!)
AN and his client, with Steve and I, we battled and waded our way out of the corrie
Shelter, what shelter?
in the incredibly soft and deep snow and eventually, all a little weary now, we arrived back to the ski station.
Funny? no skiing? Ha ha!
Steve would catch an early train home instead of spending the planned night in Aviemore. He missed the train and so did spend the afternoon and evening in a pub or two. Ah well?
What of Mike? I read his blog later and saw one picture of Fluted Buttress Direct. He wrote,
‘It was good fun. and a good climb…..’
Ummmm, author’s license I think? Good on him though.
Steve? Next year for the CMD Arete and the north face?
March 13th & 14th
Winter skills again
Murky weather indeed
The old holes from last week’s course in the snow under the Goat track were not visible on Saturday. But there hasn’t been much snow for a while and yet there was still lots to play with.
Euan and Steve arrived from London and Edinburgh respectivly and were keen to get aquainted for the first real time in crampons and winter techniques. Saturday was pretty awful weather so I was pleased we could get cracking through the course with the minimum of delays.
As this snowcraft course was quite light of clients, we were able to take a rapid learning curve and endless slides of ice axe breaking and holding leader falls on snow belays of all kinds. The avalanche tests were very educational as well. Because of the repetition available, the lads produced some excellent performances by the end of the first day. We all retired (a bit damp) to Aviemore and reunited in the bar to watch almost the whole of the Scotland - England Six Nations match. Honours were even by the end of the game but neither Euan or Stuart were very happy with the draw. I was relatively impressed with what I thought was a good game? What do I know abour Rugby?
Sunday dawned and with reasonable (but a little cloudy) weather, we took the chance to put into practice what had been learnt the day before.
Aladdin’s Mirror gave the lads their first winter snow climb, enabling lots of snow anchors to be used, as well as the more secure rock belays, using slings and nuts.
Traversing to Aladdin's seat
especially with the characteristic Cairngorm wind now at full pelt and the clag right down. It was time to call it a day and the boys sped off to Edinburgh with plans to come back and do more winter stuff if possible, and some intensive rock climbing with me in the dryer times ahead.