July 4th, 5th & 6th
Mont Blanc from the Tete Rouse Hut – Jagged Globe
I met up with the team at 9am on the 4th as planned. Hannah been to the Arolla area with the team of four, but due to an unfortunate injury, one of the team had to drop out.
I was recruited to be the guide for Stan, a Belgium living in London, and a tall and large well built man who was an important figure in the hotel business.
We got on very well immediately. Hannah had the two other lads and we were to travel only to the Tete Rouse Hut today. Firstly checking equipment and day food/water supplies, we then took our cars and cares to Les Houches for the midday lift to Bellevue. Soon we were walking through the snow to the ridge. The weather was very fine, so there were high hopes of success on the Blanc.
At the Hut, several other British guides were also going the same route – 2am start to the Gouter and after a short rest, to the summit. We would descend all the way to the Tete Rouse again that afternoon. We relaxed with the clients and after the evening meal, advised everyone to an early bed, ready for the morrow.
The muscles need tweaking early in the morning, but soon we were clad in crampons and fleeces and on the approach to the Grande Couloir. It was a fine night, cold and clear and with the snow lying in the couloir, very little danger of stonefall that morning. We were all soon across, jostling for positions on the ridge up to the Gouter Hut, with the many other climbers, mostly from Spain and the eastern countries. It was still very dark when we got to the hut but we sorted the teams out for food and drinks and rested for a short time.
The summit push was on.
Very much a similar pattern emerged as with all my ascents from the Gouter, I created a steady trek at a comfortable speed (for me as well as the others) and we emerged at the Vallot in good time. From this point the trek becomes more arduous and the pace slowed. I was quite a way ahead of Hannah and the two lads, but Stan was going well. Nevertheless, the top 300 metres is always tough. We pushed slowly on and with delight, curved over the final slopes to the summit. Jon and his team were right behind me and a friendly banter with all around ensued. Photos taken, flags unfurled and after drinks and chocolate, we turned for home. Hannah was just a few minutes behind and we congratulated everyone for the success. Then it was off down the Bosses Ridge and a rest at the Vallot Hut. The morning had dawned before the summit and in increasingly warmer conditions, we made our way down to the col and over the Dome du Gouter. Together with several other parties, we took the tedious descent back to tha Gouter Hut.
Stan and I had some food and drink in the Hut, Olivier, his wife and their team of caretakers at the refuge making us very welcome. Olivier mentioned the workmen had actually started that day on the construction of the new Refuge du Gouter, planned for opening around 2020. I can hardly wait.
An hour down the ridge is usual and the wire beckoned for its use with some stonefall occurring as we climbed easily down to the traverse. Linking us with a 10 metre lead, we quickly crosssed and were pleased to have no stonefall at all.
Soon we were relaxing in the refuge again, and after a good night’s sleep, we took a 7am breakfast and were off, down to the Nid d’Aigle and the train. The cable car was on time and we were soon in our own cars, heading for the hotel in Chamonix Sud.
I parted company with a great team in the early afternoon, and sped off to Argentiere, chores to be done, clothes washed and more rest.
A superb outing.