Smiler Cuthbertson – Mountain Guide

Bernard and Gerhard arrived with mixed intentions. Bernard was keen for rock, Gerhard seemed keener on the mixed, mountain routes, although he had done little of either.
The Guides Crag and crevasse rescue training was my usual first day anyway, and afterwards, some good rock climbing was achieved. With Gerhard warming to the rock climbing, we moved down to Servoz and did two more rock routes, one my favourite 6b on the left hand side of the crag, a stiff test for the lads.

Next day, with Gerhard now smitten with the rock climbing, we went up to the Aiguille Rouges for more, and the Godefrey Perroux route on the Index was ascended. With this great route still fresh in my mind, it was really good to do it again.
There was bad weather next morning so we binned idea of the Petite Verte.
Instead, we went to the Guides Crag all day. It was hot and sultry when the rain stopped and the lads did well leading several routes themselves.
Now the weather had improved, we took the cable car up to the Petite Verte for Gerhard’s first experience in crampons and axe usage. It was a very good climb and all three of us enjoyed the day.
With poor weather still hanging around, we postponed the Cosmiques Arête. Instead we went to the Dalles du Floria and climbed Sentier Lumineux and Eperon Sublime, excellent and fun climbing.
August came on us and our target for the final climb with Bernard and Gerhard was the Cosmiques Arete. This proved a great choice for the day and an excellent finish for the two lads. A great week.

On the first day with David, it was threatening weather again, so two rock routes on the Dalles du Floria were climbed, Eperon Sublime and Athena. We got back down just before the storm at two pm.
Next day, taking an early cable car to the Midi summit, we went down & across to the Pointe Lachenal. Traversing the two peaks by midday, we were soon back to the Col du Midi. Contrary to our plan to stay the night at the refuge and climb the Cosmiques Ridge back to the Midi summit the next day, we now had enough time to complete that ridge in the afternoon. The route was plain sailing until the last quarter where we came up against several Italian teams. With my knowledge of the route, we managed to get past everyone by the final chimneys and topped out in around four hours.

David summitting the Forbes Arete

We then had a rest morning, and later, went up to Albert Premier Hut, planning another traverse of the Forbes Arete on the Chardonnet.
Next morning the route went well, this time in only four and a half hours from the hut to the summit. The storm earlier that week had put new snow on the arete and cold weather had resulted in perfect conditions. We were back at the Albert Premier Hut around ten fifteeen and then back in the valley at two pm, excellent alpine climbing.
With a big route under our belts, an ascent of the Petite Verte provided little hassle. To finish off a great week with David, we did the Godefrey Perroux route on the Index during a brief spell of dry weather, finishing the six pitch route by one pm. It rained and stormed all afternoon but we had done a great little rock climb, and had a superb week of climbing!