Smiler Cuthbertson - Mountain Guide

Rjukan Icefest February 4^th -14^th 2010

Right from the start, as the Meet leader for the Climbers’ Club ice climbing trip to Norway, I sensed this year’s icefest meet was going to be good. And it was.

 Initial reports about Ryan Air’s increasingly tighter and more expensive travel conditions were gloomy, but one of the intended team members came up with an option/variation for travel to Oslo - Norwegian Air to Oslo Gardermoen, the city’s main airport and not too far out of our way to Rjukan. The main advantage over Ryan air was the cost, and very favourable weight allowances.

Gardermoen receives flights from several UK airports, thirteen of the eventual team flying from Edinburgh or Heathrow, the rest sticking to Ryan Air from various UK airports, mainly Stansted and Liverpool.

Ryan Air and Norwegian Air (pretty well) matched each other for cheap flight ticket costs, but when it came to weight allowance, and to the cost each way of a sports bag, it was a totally different story. Much cheaper with the latter and a massive 40kgs allowed rather than 20kgs with the former. With the need to take fairly heavy bags of winter gear and ropes, this proved a godsend to many of us.

It was a huge difference when we arrived in Gardermoen though. A major airport, plenty of facilities open even at a late hour, easy locatable car hire desks, civilised organisation. Soon, a happy ‘Baker’s Dozen’ had loaded hire cars, switched Sat Navs on and were driving towards the city centre. ‘Doris’ re­calculated nicely when arriving at road works on the lengthy tunnel in the city, and with virtually spot-on the timing, three hours and seventeen minutes later, we pulled up at the Rjukan Gestegard Hostel. Messages and envelopes left at reception gave room numbers, keys and directions and soon we were cosily ensconced in warm beds.

 A marked difference to last year was the lack of crowds in the climbing areas. Usually one’s climbing was enjoyed alongside maybe three or four other visiting climbers, the only difference being at Krokan and Ozzimosis, where here, due to the un-serious nature of the access (not necessarily the climbs mind you) there were as usual a larger number of visitors. However, these never impeded our fun.

Conditions this year were excellent, not too cold and with reasonable, but usually slightly dull weather although there were also some splendid sunshine days. Little falling snow and good tracks in the gorge along both sides of the river to locate climbs, although some members did decide to get their feet wet occasionally.

There so many routes climbed this year that it would be a lengthy list if needed. Suffice to say, together we more or less climbed most of the routes under Grade 6, including many of the superlative Grade 5s in the ‘Heavy Water’ guidebook. A new and more modern guidebook is now overdue.

A couple of the more adventurous teams ended up doing the hardest climbs on the meet, but generally, there was a ‘fun’ atmosphere in the warm and spacious lounge each night after the day’s climbing, the wet gear, now ice had melted, drying out in the superb drying room in the basement, while some relaxed and others self-catered in the (slightly cramped but still usable) kitchen area.

The Meet continued in the same manner as all previous meets, breakfast at or before 8.00 o’clock, followed by day-food selection and then packing gear and off in teams by around 9am. There was never any need to rush, the climbing is always strenuous so three or four (up to 25/30 meter routes a day would prove ample fun, some of the longer routes in the gorge were usually enough as a ‘one-route’ day.

My thanks (as Meet leader) go to the following:

The superb Rjukan Gestegard - with the staff of Torbjorn, Anne, Ina and Freddie, plus a couple more (their names unfortunately escape me). And a special thanks to Freddie for the organisation of the great Pizza meal and party with drinks we had in splendid surroundings, shortly before returning to the UK.

Climbers’ Club (and Guests) - Matt McVeigh, Geoff Lowe, Trevor Langhorne, Steve Jenkins, Bryn Roberts, Dave Hayward, Peter Nugent, Chris Vernon, Myles and Nicola Jordan, Rob Aryton, Lee Leatherbarrow and Becky Moore, Paul Headland, Jim Slater, Phil Tomaszenski, Terry Kenny, Marje Mortimer, and the two latecomers who we never really had time to mix with, Cath Walton and Rick Wojtaszewski, they arriving just as we were due to come home.

To all of the personnel involved, I thank you all for providing another great icefest Meet for the Climbers’ Club, and I look forward to next February when we can again swing our axes and return to such comfort each day.

I realise after three consecutive year’s Meets at Rjukan now, past attendees may want to visit other areas over west, Hemsedal, Laerdal, Eidfiord etc, but with, as yet, scant knowledge of similar and superb accommodation in these (arguably as good for ice climbs) locations, I will be happy to continue to promote the Rjukan Meet, hopefully gaining new members each year.

Smiler Cuthbertson March 3^rd 2010

Alex Ravanel

I needed a break after  the shock of Chris and the avalanche horror. My son Laurie and I grabbed a plane at Liverpool’s John Lennon airport and touched down in Geneva, where my good friend and ace French guide, Alex, was waiting to drive us to Argentiere, Chamonix, for a week’s skiing and snowboarding.

Laurie ready to board

Thanks to the kindness of my friend and Client, Bernard, accommodation was very close to the Grande Montet ski station, so we had five wonderful days on the slopes around this great alpine valley. I knew I was escaping the tragedy of Chris, and often through the week I wondered how Jo was coping. News that I would not miss the funeral gave me some comfort.

Scotland gripped by snow

The journey back to a UK gripped by snow was less simple. Snow-bound airports all over Britain were causing travel chaos. Instead of three hours of simple flights, we spent three days holed up at two airports and finally arrived in Inverness to a wintry wonderland.

The funeral was to be the 21st January, and with only a few days of guiding to cater for, before going south again, I had a second holiday. Later, driving down and joining Doug Scott in the Lake District for the travel to Nottingham, we a good chance to make up lost time and

Doug's place

 reflect on the loss of our friend. Funerals are not my cup of tea at the best of times and when a close friend is involved, it’s worse. Meeting up with Bill in the pub after the ceremonies was a pleasant surprise and I thanked him for making the effort to come a long way north to see Chris off.

The young Astills

Jo, Rachel and her mother and sister were all strong and with half of the UK climbing world seemingly there, it was a terrific send-off for a smashing lad.

Bill & Smiler at Chris' wake

I drove back from Doug’s on the Friday morning and

Doug Scott and Bill in the crowded wake

 looked forward to the coming weekend’s snowcraft course. However, another task lay before me on entering the Highlands. Now Ed was in deep trouble with cancer and was back at home from the Glasgow clinic. I had to call and see him and Rona.

Ed Grindley at Rieff

Ed was better than I’d expected, but no-one knew what would happen, and we are all still waiting and hoping for the best. Only time will tell now.