Smiler Cuthbertson - Mountain Guide

16th April 2010

Observatory Ridge

I’ve been wanting to do a winter ascent of this route for years.

The book says.. ‘the most difficult of the classic Nevis ridges….’,  so I’ve always treated it with some respect when considering it for a client day.

Today we were very relaxed and with my recent ascents on the Ben and in the Gorms, I realised the weather and conditions were perfect for an ascent of a big ridge. It might be too dry though and I was aware of the controversies currently surrounding doing winter routes in crampons when the rock is dry.

Steve and I made our way up Observatory Gully and roped up at the first obvious slanting snow ledge.

End of first pitch

Progress was easy and fun, and soon I was on the crest, on rocky ledges under some steeper rock.

The next section was pretty dry but because of the melt yesterday and the subsequent  lower temperatures, quite a bit of slabby verglas and thicker ice caused some problems, and I was thankful I’d left my crampons on. Runners were good though, the rock climbing not difficult, in fact I think I easily avoided some tricky rock by going out right onto snow. Soon we were out onto the crest of the main ridge. All perfect snow now and wonderful situations. The weather was as

High on the main ridge

good I’d seen recently and some moving together was possible due to the good footsteps on the ridge.I stopped for a belay for Steve so he could comfortably traverse into Zero Gully above that route’s steep sections. Deja Vu. I’d been here on Saturday. Once ropes were in a more vertical line, we resumed moving together, Steve doing fine moving with me on the incredibly hard snow, with the occasional ice screw runner. I was soon near the top.

With conditions as they are at the moment, if the temperature stays low, we are in for a terrific May on the Ben and elsewhere.

Toiling up toward the summit of the Ben, it was in a nice and gentle cool breeze, compensating for the bright sunshine. How fortunate we had our shades.

Green Gully p3

“Hi Smiler”. I gazed up and twenty or so metres ahead of me, a tall dark figure strode down the snow towards Jo and I. Still not recognising Mike, I replied,

“How the heck can you recognise me from so far?” Of course, in seconds we were together, doing the obligatory ‘guide hand shake’ and chatting about routes done and things to come. Mike headed down, complete with camera clutching valuable shots for Alan’s new winter guide.

Jo on pitch 3 Green Gully

Jo and I had topped out on Green Gully earlier that morning. We had had some idea Green would be good, even after Zero on Saturday had been soft and serious, because the temperatures had dropped considerably, and in fact walking up the Alt a’Mhullin at 9am it felt quite cold - good!

Di was at the CIC hut and we exchanged the usual banter. Always a cheery so and so, I wished her well on Tower ridge and we were off up Corrie na Ciste for Green Gully. It would be Jo’s first Grade 4 but I was sure she would be fine today. And so she was.

Corrie na Ciste 12-04-2010

Of the five pitches, the third steep bulge was the best, giving perfect ice, not too hard, not too soft, and compared to Saturday, a screw runner felt strong.

Green Gully p1

I gave Jo the top pitch and explained the process of a stomper belay to bring me up. She cruised the pitch efficiently. I was quite surprised as I turned the small cornice by a soft and steep snow arete. It was quite bold I thought, but Jo assured me she had felt quite comfortable on the lead.

This is where I came in today. We trekked up to the summit, passing  ‘Laird N0. 2′ on the way, (people always suggest Alan is No. 1 Laird of the Ben?).

After chatting to the many summit folk on the glorious summer afternoon, Jo took the opportunity of pointing out peaks in the far distances, naming them accurately. We continued down the Red Burn, using Mike’s superb bum slide to great advantage and cutting such corners took almost an hour off the journey back to the car park.

Another great day out and still more is possible. Friday will be next though as I’m house-husband with Clare away for a week.

Weather, stay cool, please.