Archive for the ‘Scottish Winter’ Category

The Boys were back for more.

Tuesday, April 6th, 2010

March 26th - 28th

Rick and Andy were hoping for better conditions this year. Last winter, after some snow

Rick, Andy and Ciaran on snowcraft skillsiaran

Rick, Andy and Ciaran on snowcraft skillsiaran

 skills training with Douglas along as well, they had all climbed Aladdin’s Mirror with me in deep gloomy weather and soft snow. Rick certainly felt a little uncomfortable at times on the belays and wanted this winter to get  more accustomed to the proper climbing of routes. We had Ciaran with us as well, a young and strong chap but he’d no real experience on steep snow routes. So a day on snow skills was necessary.

Assisting me on the skills session was Pete, who has a good

More snowcraft skills

More snowcraft skills

 chance of becoming a guide if he can accumulate the necessay big alpine and Scottish routes for his CV. He performed well and everyone enjoyed the day. We decided the Fiachaill Ridge looked splendid and so next morning we waded through still soft snow up to the steepening slopes under the ridge.

We were pleasently suprised when just reaching the ridge proper, we hit perfect neve, and soon we were romping up to the more serious section of the route. Putting the team onto one rope, I led up through On the Fiachaill Ridgethe difficult sections in deteriorating visibility. Topping out, I led off down towards the Goat track. I checked the compass. It was soon apparent that the virtual nil-visibility in the driving snow and the wind was veering me off course. Reverting to the known skills, and because we hadn’t travelled very far, I navigated my way and

 the team back to the top of the Fiachaill Ridge and we

Visibility not good

Visibility not good

descended the easy left-hand side to the main lower section. By this time all was quieter and we relaxed, making our way back to the ski-station, all thouroughly wet through by now. 

The lads agreed that the day had been exciting enough, yet still good fun, and we packed up and drove back, to say our goodbyes until another time.Rick and Andy would be keen for more rock like last time in North Wales. we’ll see.

The Runnel

The Runnel

Ciaran still had a day left with me. We returned in much improved weather and got stuck straight into good steep climbing. The Runnel was superb with hard neve and in great weather now, we climbed this super route in fine style. Going down the Goat track I couldn’t ressist turning left and climbing Red gully,

The Runnel

The Runnel

 in it’s snowy state it was  much easier than of late but still wonderful as a grade 2 ice route.

I wanted to descend, as on a previous week’s course, down Jacobs ladder into Hidden Chimney but the cornice was a little too risky so we opted for the descent under the Mess of Pottage buttress. Hidden Chimney was, as always,

Ciaran in Hidden Chimney

Ciaran in Hidden Chimney

brilliant and we were soon heading back down the Fiachaill of Corrie Casse and the car park, making plans for further adventures, notably rock climbs in the Lakes in June. I hope the plan comes off?

Out with the boys for a week

Monday, April 5th, 2010

March 20th - 24th.

Tom and Gary arrived with 5 days planned on the hills.

Some doubtful (forecasted) weather turned out better than expected and we had a great week together.

Day 1 - Some useful snowcraft skills to ensure some safe movement for the rest of the
Get your feet up!

Get your feet up!

week.
Red Gully

Red Gully

Day 2 - A fabulous day in great weather and we made the most of it. Along the Fiachaill Ridge, down the Goat track, up Red Gully, down Jacobs Ladder and finally up Hidden

Hidden Chimney

Hidden Chimney

Chimney, and still time for tea and cakes at 4pm.

Day 3 - Not so good weather today so just a couple of climbs. Up Goat track Gully and

The Runnel

The Runnel

 then the Runnel. The tea and cakes were as good. We took off for the west coast in good time and were ensconced in the superb Bank Street Lodge by 6pm, eating and drinking in the excellent Crofter bar

 and the football match on Sky. Sorry, Gary about Leeds. Never mind, Wolves tomorrow!

Day 4 - Off up the Ben in reasonable weather and conditions. A superb ascent of Ledge Route and down for the BIG match. Result? 3-1 to the Wolves. Great!

Ledge Route

Ledge Route

Ledge Route

Ledge Route

Ledge Route

Ledge Route

 

Day 5 - In line for a rapid drive south for the lads, Curved ridge on the Buchaille was

Curved Ridge

Curved Ridge

 chosen as the final climb. Not much snow but still Great winter mountaineering and a wonderful day out.

Looking forward to more adventures with Tom and Gary.