Smiler Cuthbertson - Mountain Guide

September 3^rd to 5^th

Zermatt in Poor Weather

After two welcome rest days I made my way back to Zermatt to meet Mark, and looked topwards completintg our five- year wait to put to bed the Hornli Ridge However, arriving at the Bahnof, the peak was hidden in dark clouds and further conversations with the Bahnof manager gave me cause for concern. Lots of snow on the east face and doubtful weather for the next day. Mark had only three days booked with me, so conditions had to good (and soon). Unfortinately we woke to a very cloudy day, the peak not to be seen, and although the forecast was better for the next two days, I didn’t feel Mark had the experience to do the peak in anything other than perfect conditions, so I suggested returning to Argentiere and some much-needed rock climbing practice.

My first abseil

Arriving in Chamonix at mid-day, we went straight to the Guides’ Crag and had a successful training session on several of the easier routes.
 
Next morning we travelled to the Thermal Park at La Fayet near Sallanches and sampled the thin slab climbing there. The techniques for slab climbing were too much for Mark’s liking. My intentions had been to train for the easier, but much more demanding rock on the Matterhorn, so I still felt Mark had more to do before we eventually get to this peak, even in good weather.

Mark-striding the Aiguille Crochures ridge

Our final day together was not as successful as I’d have liked. I chose the traverse of the Aiguille Crochures and arriving at the point where one has to down-climb the easy, but steep, chimney there were several teams still waiting. A lengthy wait resulted, and our intention of also continuing to the summit of the Belvedere was now in doubt if we were to not have to rush back down this route to the Lac Blanc track and on to the Flegere station and cable car. With slopes of pure ice to traverse after the end of the Crochures Traverse, I did feel this was going to be awkward and slow, and Mark’s lack of rock climbing techniques could lead to a very slow ‘up and down’ climb and a possible (and disastrous) late finish so I steered Mark down to Lac Blanc. As it turned it, we did finish too early, but the decision had been made. I made a point to make it up to Mark on his next course with me.

Henri Bouillet 1958-2009

So the season ended on a not-so successful note but I packed the car, bought the wine, and made my way back home, accompanied by ‘Doris’.
Questions still remain about the reasons why Henri died - perhaps a needless accident or was there a misjudgement? However, nothing will bring this super chap back.

I’ll miss him terribly.

I’ll be back in the Alps next season and will avoid helicopters like the plague.
See you there?

Smiler - October 2009

The Blumlisalphorn

August 30^th & 31^st

Murray and I had just one more joint venture, the Blumlisalphorn from a hut a long way above Kandersteg. Iain, David and Rachel had booked their trip up this 3, 600 metre peak and, because of the technical nature another guide was needed, so Murray had offered as he was still in the area with me.

A lengthy walk-in

 The five-hour walk to the hut in the hot sun was trying, but we took our time and felt OK on reaching the Blumlisalp Hut, superbly situated high on a col above the vast valleys surrounding the Kandersteg peaks.

The ice slope to the col

Our target used to be a straightforward snow climb to a col and then a rocky ridge with virtually no technical climbing, and protected by steel stakes every so often up the steeper sections. However, the global warming had left the snow slope as bare ice and some quite obvious stonefall danger if one was there at the wrong time.

The rock ridge

So we left early for the route and the day proved interesting, not too difficult, and the summit a splendid place adorned with a majestic Swiss cross. We descended the rock ridge in our own separate teams, but joined together to go down the steep and icy lower slopes to the flat glacier.

Rachel and David on the summit

Either Murray or I would lower the other guide first, who would place the ice screw belays and then all the clients would be lowered down to the stance. Murray and I would take it in turns to climb down without the top-rope to rejoin the team. Using two ropes tied together, we were able to descend a long distance down the ice in this manner, but it always put a slight strain on the last guide.

The team at the Blumlisalp hut

However, the slope was not steep enough to worry Murray or me too much, and we were soon back on the glacier route back to the hut. With ample time available at the hut, we rested and rehydrated before taking the lengthy descent back to our delightful campsite, via a gondola ride saving a convenient hour (both ways) to the lake at Large, this a pretty spot, well frequented by trekkers.

The hamlet of Large

The Matterhorn with Mark is next. I’m hoping for much better weather than of late. Tell you about it when we’re back.

Smiler