The Classic Haute Route

17th-26th June 2010

I sensed that June 17th was a little early for alpine excursions, and some research and very grateful assistance from Kathy, a guide colleague living in Les Houches, gave me the start and advice I needed, after all these years concentrating on the Chamonix and Zermatt valleys, and with some excellent help from Dave Fisher at Adventure Peaks, I was ready to trek! The only problem was the weather!

June is usually very good for alpine climbing these days, so I was surprised at the amount of recent snow lying on the mountains when I travelled over this year. The current weather was also fairly grim, lots of rain but snow showers higher up. Kathy advised me there would be a problem in my itinerary with the Valsorey Hut being closed, and warning me I might be trail-breaking over many of the higher passes and the couple of usually easy peaks on the plan. Pointing me to alternatives and warning me of certain problem areas, I felt pretty well clued up. All I had to do was meet up with the three clients and get started.

Nigel, John and Barry, all from the north-east area, were in the Chamonix hotel when we met for the first time. All very likeable chaps, two had been ski-ing and some walking in the Alps before, for Barry, it was his first visit. None were actual seasoned climbers but after all, they agreed, it was only a walk!

Day 1. The first day’s itinerary was to me, pretty easy. A simple walk up to the Albert Premier Hut! At eleven o’clock we stepped off the bus at Le Tour to a different world. Cold, wet, and no-one around. The cable car to the Col du Balme being closed had seen to that, as well as the copious amounts of low-lying snow. There were simply no walkers around?

A direct ascent up the steep moraine ridge was called for. It all went well until we reached the final steep section so familiar to me after years of ascents of Aiguille du Tour. Deep and quite wet snow on the ridge, it was also snowing hard, what a start we were having. I knew it would be difficult to dry stuff in the hut, but lying with ones wet socks in the bedroom did some help.

Day 2. Kathy had warned me the trek across the Trient plateau to the Cabane d’Orny would be bad enough if there were no tracks, and there weren’t. The few climbers from the Albert Premier Hut going to the top of Aiguille du Tour, provided a welcome track as far as the Col Superior du Tour. From here on it was blank and sometimes knee-deep snow. At least the weather had improved a little and after three-quarters of the plateau were dealt with in strenuous fashion, we encountered two French guys heading towards us who had planned to do some rock climbing around the Orny Hut but were now simply walking through the Fenetre de Saleina to go home. Their tracks were a welcome relief and we made good progress down to the Cabane. Here, snow lay all around obscuring any of the tracks, and with the weather closed in again, difficult route finding wasted at least an hour. Dropping down from the Cabane we finally located a visible path and then a signpost which led us down towards Champex and our eventual goal that evening, La Fouly.

I pondered whether the faint track leading down the Coombe du Orny had ever been walked at all, as we made difficult and tiring progress all the way down the steep side of the mountain. The lads (and me) were pretty tired after such a long and hard trek, so on reaching a little place called Plan Reviere, we decided it was pointless to make the long (6km) walk down and then up the valley to La Fouly, and who knew when we would reach our hotel that night? Luckily the man we had met on reaching the first road, gathering grass and hay on his flat platform truck, turned out to also be the local taxi man and within an hour we were at the Hotel in La Fouly.

With John and Nigel being old friends, it seemed sensible for me to share a room with Barry. He was a very likeable chap, a policeman, a Detective Inspector no less, and some interesting tales of crime, including murder, kept me interested for ages.

Day 3. The comfortable bedrooms and sufficient Swiss breakfast gave us the impetus to get started next morning. However, there were already problems with our itinerary. Because the Valsorey Hut was closed, the original plan to go from Bourg St Pierre would not be possible. Kathy had kindly shown me a different way, over the Col Neve and after gaining a high point above the col, we would drop steeply but easily down to regain the Bourg St Pierre route. Christian, running the La Fouly Hotel, also warned me there would be no trail, the route long and difficult with all this snow, and there was no-one going that way yet. He offered an inviting alternative, over the Fenetre du Ferret and over the Col Grand St. Bernard by post bus and taxi to the Mauvoisin Dam. That way we could easily reach the Chanrion Hut in about seven hours.

The weather continued to be poor, with cold rain turning to wet snow at any height. Visibility was virtually nil and we were fortunate to be able to follow steep tracks which only gave navigation problems when we reached the snow line. It turned into a difficult day, and when one has to wear crampons on steep grass, I think you will accept it was all a bit unexpected. Locating the Fenetre was difficult and time-consuming, but eventually we dropped down through the snow to the Fenetre and at last we could see the winding road leading to the Grand St. Bernard Pass. At first we sat and waited for a bus, but eventually the cold and wet prompted us to hike up to the Col, where at least we could have a coffee and lunch. Helpful cafe staff gave us info on the bus we would need and around 3pm, we were moving at speed down to Bourg St. Pierre and the Hotel Bonapart for our much needed accommodation for the night and a welcome drying room at last!

Day 4. With the Valsorey Hut closed, there was no way we could follow the planned itinerary across the high cols to Bourg St. Pierre, so we opted for a short bus ride to Ossieres and then a taxi around to the Mauvoisin Dam. We were getting around but were gaining spare days as well. Still, better to be making progress towards Zermatt than risking arduous journeys across untracked high passes.

It was a daunting sight - the dam, clagged in rain and the tunnels which led us the start of the trek, were clad in big icicles, daggers waiting to drop onto unlucky passers-by.

Again visibility was poor and once we had left the lake side, navigation again became complicated. The weather forecast showed an improvement on Sunday (Day 5) and we longed for no rain and some sunshine. The Chanrion hut was a welcome sight and normal service on tracks with way-markers was becoming more usual.

Day 5. By now, we were also being accompanied by another small group of walkers. At the Chanrion Hut, we were now involved in four separate groups, mostly French people and two teams led by guides, which was becoming useful, as the itinerary was lead us over serious ground with the weather and snow. We learnt that it was not only us that had changed plans a few times, and that our idea to go over three cols to the Dix hut was not practicable. We would be the only team doing this route. Everyone else was diverting up the well-known and easier route of the Ottemma Glacier and going direct to the Vignettes Hut. I was hardly likely to avoid this change and the revised glacier trek. So, with other groups in sight and with the weather much better now we had the first relaxed and pleasant day’s hike since leaving Chamonix. The weather deteriorated in the afternoon but the tracks in the mist were reassuring and we finally stumbled into this gloriously placed hut. It didn’t seem as big as I remember those 30 odd years ago, and I finally clicked - only the winter quarters were open. There was no guardian, apparently because the helicopter couldn’t bring him up due to the adverse weather. No guardian, no spacious and comfortable rooms, and no food and drink! I pondered retreating to Arolla, (thus avoiding the seven-hour trek across the Col du L’Eveque) and down the glacier to the turning point, up to the Bertol Hut - all with no food and drink apart from our limited supplies of day food. All was settled though when the French party we were getting to know and admire, did some searching and appeared with winter supplies of soups, some pasta, and plenty of sachets of tea, sugar and coffee. So everyone was sorted with adequate food for the next day.

Day 6. The morning was clear and good, and we followed the French Guide’s party, who in turn were following three elderly but seemingly experienced trekkers. Indeed, it turned out the leader of the three men was an accomplished member of the Chamonix rescue service.

We crossed the Col de L’Eveque in glorious weather and descended the lengthy Glacier d’Arolla before finally swinging around eastwards to gain the normal Bertol Hut approach track. Here we hit a problem. The deep snow had blanketed out the usually straightforward zig-zag trail up to the hut, and the now well-beaten track in the snow went directly up to the col in a virtual straight line, to where the Bertol Hut sits majestically above. It was a very strenuous hike, the snow being deep enough to warrant use of some handholds in either side of the deep and steep track. But we made it, and were relieved to find the lady guardian very welcoming with hot afternoon snacks. Later, good conversation and beers flowed.

Day 7 (of 9). Because of the itinerary changes, we were now left with one very long day and two spare days. However, all the other teams assured me it was far better to divert from the route in the afternoon to the Schonbeil Hut and overnight there, which still left three to four hours descent to Zermatt the next (and last for walkers) day. I consulted the team and we came up with an agreement to go to the Schonbeil Hut, then drop down next day to Zermatt, staying at the less-expensive but high quality Hotel Bahnof, and use the last of the spare days by making an ascent of the Zermatt Breithorn, at almost 4200 metres, a superb climax to a great walk. The team heartily agreed to the plan and as usual, the ‘three wise men’ led the rest of the trekkers’ teams across the glacier and to the summit of the Tete Blanche (3707 metres). It was a wonderful summit, with now clear views all around, and the snow-clad Matterhorn standing proudly to the east.

The usual approach to the Schonbeil Hut is by way of the normal track from Zermatt. For Haute Route trekkers this usually means dropping down the Stockji Glacier, well past the Stockji buttress itself, to a distant point where one can back-track onto the hut approach. All this, including the ascent of the Tete Blanche, should only be undertaken in good visibility, as the route-finding through the numerous crevasses are serious throughout.

With the copious amounts of snow lying, we were lucky to be able to travel down the south side of the Stockji, and were surprised when finding the French guide’s party doing a swing around the base of the Stockji itself, instead of continuing a long way down the glacier. We caught them up at one of their rest stops and found the leader of the ‘three wise men’ had at some previous date actually created a route up the northern side of the Stockji, across eastwards to the steep ground descending from the Pointe de Zinal, and had developed a superb (but quite technical) path across the steep walls to the hut. Apart from any crevasse dangers, I had felt the rope to be unnecessary, although we had used it everywhere one has to. But now the rope was important, albeit only for the one section of pathway above some very steep drops. But it was a superb key route and we were in the hut long before most of the other groups.

Day 8. The trek down from the hut to Zermatt did take us over three and a half hours in the heat of the morning, so the welcoming open access to the Brown Cow bar proved irresistible. Suitably rested, fed and liquidated we walked through the busy town to the Bahnof where the wardens - first Kathy Biner, then Harry, welcomed us and kindly substituted the expected attic accommodation on the 6th floor, for Room 4 next to the office on the ground floor. At the same price as well. Good people to know. After showering and changing, the team wandered through the main street of Zermatt, mingling with the other visitors, before an evening meal at the superb ‘Potter’s Bar’ restaurant near the Gornergrat Station, where the meals are terrific and enormous. The evening was eventually spent packing and preparing for the Breithorn climb, eagerly lifting and comparing virtually empty rucksacks.

I am sure the three lads had a great time on the Haute Route and should be congratulated for doing the trek in such early adverse weather and conditions. They worked well with me, strong walking over some lengthy days, and good crampon work where necessary, offering sound advice and suggestions, with virtually no complaints at all. We slept well that night.

Day 9. An extra to the itinerary but with a spare day to deal with, the peak proved a wonderful ending to our trek. I’ve climbed the peak several times and from the Kliene Matterhorn, on a good day with good snow conditions, the climb presents little difficulty. Today was no exception and after no more than a four-hour round trip, the team were in their (more expensive) hotel and I was in the Bahnof, showering, changing and packing for my train, with changes at Visp, Martigny and the Frontier (Chatelard) to Argentiere, eta 20.15, just in time to meet Ian, my client for the next eight days. There was still one hiccup. The train deposited me at a deserted Chatelard station, but there was no follow-on train there? Strange, the ticket definitely said ‘change here’. Unbeknownst to me, there was a one-day strike going on!

I soon realised I wasn’t going on a train and started thumbing a lift, but cars were few and far between at that time of the evening. I wandered into the only civilization there, a cafe/bar and enquired about a taxi. 100 euros! I shuddered but realised I had to get to Argentiere, so reluctantly sent the cafe man off to get a taxi. I went outside to get the cool of the evening and by chance a car pulled up and gave me a lift all the way to Argentiere. I kept looking over my shoulder expecting some Swiss person to be yelling at us to stop. Oh well!

Ian was patiently waiting for me in the Office bar. My apartment came later.

June 25th - July 2nd

High Hopes but dashed dreams

Ian had arrived in Argentiere a few hours earlier than my hitchhike from Chatelard, and had already settled into the Hotel Courrone. as I dragged my belongings out of the friendly Spanish traveller’s car. Ian had a beer waiting for me. It tasted good.

June 25th -As always, Ian looked fit and strong, eager to get our plans underway. First some acclimatising in the Aiguille Rouge. The Traverse of the well-known Aiguille Crochures was only a little more arkward with tthe late-lying snow, and an extension to the summit of the Aiguille Belvedere provided Ian with an extra ascent of this super summit. Just under 3000metres it gives greater acclimatation and somne good scrambling. Lac Blanc as always has some welcoming liquids.

June 27th - Day 2 had good weather so some high rock climbing was called for. We took the cable car to the top of the Brevant and dropped down the snow-covered tourist path to the first of those great new rock climbs which link up isolated buttressses and give at least a 5 or 6 pitch rock climb.
La Someone (5 sup max) is a great climb and we also added the final arete of Crackocasse to end an enjoyable and useful 7-pitch day.

June 28th - We were both eager to get into the bigger stuff and with a cable car to the Torino hut planned for the early afternoon, we drank coffee in the Office and made plans for the Kuffner. This route, the Frontier Ridge on Mont Maudit, has always been a target of mine since the late 80s, and with Ian very keen to add to his considerable list of good routes, Bionassey, Forbes, Midi-Plan and many other classsic climbs in the Chamonix range, it would be a natural progression. Apparently less serious and technically easier than the Bionassey or Forbes Aretes, it was still a big route and it seemed a perfect of route for Ian.
The Hellbronner ‘bubbles’ whirled us over the Vallee Blanche and with good weather came great views. We walked around the snow slopes and down to the hut.
I was delighted to find the service had improved in the hut and also the food, plenty of it and of good quality as well. Things looked good.

June 29th - Tim, a colleague guide was there and I learnt that another British guide, Matt, had done the Kuffner Arete the day before, saying it was in good condition. Tim and his client, Nick, were planning an ascent the day after us. With Matt’s ascent, I knew the tracks would be useful.
It was a little warm at 1am but I had no reason to alter plans. The night was clear and starlit as we trooped across underneath the Tour Ronde. Matters started to be a problem when Ian realised his weight was just a little too much for the surface of the snow. I could just about walk on the surface of the untracked snow, and as the early hours passed, only then did I need to drop into the 15cm deep tracks, presumably made the day before?
Ian was faring much worse. Tough and strong as he always is, the continuous breaking through each step was irritating him. No matter where he stood, he broke through. I tried to help by making sure I broke through a little, but I think that made the steps softer for Ian.
We continued in controlled silence for a good distance and soon were under the initial couloiur leading to the ridge itself. This was the original line going to the old Hut on the Col de la Fourche, a way I’d been before, for the Brenva Ridge and for that attempt one winter of the Cechinel-Nomminee. The ascent to the ridge was fun, much easier going and the steps hard and easy to handle. By 4am we were in Italy.
The section from here to the start of the steeper ridge is well-known to be serious. Narrow and twisting corniced aretes, rising and falling in short steep sections, it needs good hard snow to be safe and easy. The tracks did make it a little better but there were times one had to be very easy with the corniced sections, the rope between us firm and comforting. There were few places one could do to fix protection to, so the route was living up to its Diff. Sup standard. A worthy prize.
However, things weren’t getting any better on the steeper ground. The firm snow at 6am had ‘gone’, a term we use when the temperature has started to diminish the surface into sludge and even more effort is required to make progress.
I found the tracks were less than obvious now, but in the growing light, the way was clear to follow. The climbing was certainly mixed, rock steps followed by snow passages which  were forming a ‘crazy paving’ of a route. all quite steep but never too hard. One just had to be able to ease through this stuff, as on any important face or ridge. Ian, however, was finding the going tough. Maybe not quite as strong or acclimatised as he should have been, the constant breaking through the steps was getting to him. On the steeper slopes I tried to help by ‘pulling’ or assisting his progress, but It was also tiring me a little.
We reached the well-known snow dome, featured in the many great photos of the route. I led up and found some useful tracks, but the snow was now, at 8am, very soft and hard work. It was so hot now, I ventured we should take our helmets off and stop for a breather. A brief relief! Our water supply was going down quickly in this heat and now fully light, the exposure was considerable. It was a truly magnificent place to be.
Ian didn’t quite agree. I had traversed left following some tracks which unfortunately soon ran out. The guidebook definitely says ‘traverse left under the Pointe de l’Androsace and return to the ridge above the Pillar’. I could see over on the far side of the rock buttress, a large open couloir which I assunmed would enable us to circumvent this Androsace Pillar, and set off traversing the rotten snow. Whether I was too high, or too low, I’m not sure, but Unfortunately, Ian couldn’t cope with the (Eastern Traverse of Tower Ridge) type of climbing we needed to do, to get around to easier ground. It wasn’t clear to me at what level to stay at, no tracks now and the snow was soft and serious. I had only managed to bring Ian across about 50 meters and he was struggling to cope with the exposure and the climbing.
I noticed, about 50 metres diagonally down below us, a definite easing of slope. I could see that if we dropped down to this point, we could make easier progress leftwards to the couloir over on the left. This was pure ‘North Wall’ stuff and I was quite enjoying the challenge. unfortuntely, Ian wasn’t. I managed to persuade him to go down for a full rope length towards some obvious rocks which would provide a good belay. He went down reluctantly and unfortunately didn’t quite reach where I wanted him to get to, a block of rock, table-sized, with a good spike above it. There was no option but to get him to plant his axes in and for me to go down to  him.
It was easy enough but the snow was steep and soft, so I took my time. No wonder Ian had not felt happy here.
I reached him, passed him and in five metres had secured the rope on the spike. Ian came across to me and sat on the ‘table’.
“I’m not happy at all” he said quietly. “I really don’t like this. I don’t want to go any further”.
What a quandry! I looked around at the options. Back up to the traverse line and back to the snow dome? “No way” said Ian. Further tricky traversing for one pitch would get us into the easy couloir, but there was no way Ian would do this. Now at a slighly easier slope angle, I could see two ropelengths would get us back to the snow dome and ridge.
Ian had stopped and was going nowhere! There was but one choice, a helicopter lift-off!
When, about half an hour later, I saw the chopper, I though it was quite large for a French Puma? Apart from not being able to spot us at first, necessitating futher mobile calls, when the winch man eventually came down to us, he was Italian! For Ian’s sake alone I wouldn’t have minded if he was Russian (with the size of the ‘chopper’ it could easily have been that make?).
With our position on the face, the lift-off was simple and soon we were flying down to the Aeroporte in Aosta. The official took some details and then kindly took us down the road into Courtmeyer and the bus stop for the Mont Blanc tunnel and Chamonix.
We had time before the bus departure to recover, eat, and drink and reflect what had occurred. Although pleased that Ian and I were down and safe, it was yet another incident with helicopters I could have done without.
Ian told me he had been so unhappy with the snow belays he had put in, for me to descend to him, and this had been the moment he had decided to go no further. We pondered alternative moves, different descisions, various debates about being in the right place, the right line, but in the end we had to accept the conditions had beaten us this time and we were glad to be off.
Back in Chamonix/Argentiere the post-mortems and repercussions continued.

I wont tell you how much the helicopter bill was!

June 30th - Crakoukass (D Sup) on the Brevant.

We needed some stability, some nice sound rock anchors. The weather continued warm and dry for the next few days and Ian had made a full recovery, now back in good form.
A day’s rock climbing was called for, followed by Ian’s final two days on something good.

A night’s rest and a good sleep had done Ian further wonders. He now felt safe and relaxed again, and ready to spend a more relaxing day on a good rock climb.
I chose the Brevant again as Ian had only done ‘La Someone’ up there. It had to be the great route ‘Crakoucass’ which goes at mostly 5b/5c with one harder (6b) section, but this can be avoided if necessary?
It clearly would be! With me at 62 and Ian with little hard rock climbing experience lately, it simply wasn’t necessary for me to repeat my free ascent from last year, and put further stresses on Ian, especially after yesterday.
The climb was superb, grooves, face climbing, cracks, it has everything. Almost as good as the Chapelle de la Gliere but shorter and as much fun. We descended by the cable car having removed cobwebs from cupboards. L

We chatted and said ‘Let’s do a good route for the last session?’

July 1st - 2nd - The Contamine/Nigri (left of the left Edge) - Triangle du Tacul

I’d always thought my many ascents of this beautful line of snow faces and couloirs was the ‘Conytamine/Grissole, the ‘Left Edge’. I know now that route veers rightwards onto the rock buttress at about one-third of the height of the Triangle du Tacul. The Contamine/ Nigri is a pure ice climbing wonder, following the steep ice left of the buttress and with enough depth of snow on the route, it is straightforward and can be climbed in about 2 hrs from the foot of the Triangle (moving together but protected by ice screws and some rock runners over on the rocks on the right) .
We spent a lesiurely morning in Argentiere, then packed and set off once again to the top of the Midi. This time we descended to the Cosmiques Hut where Arnue, Laurance and Betty are always so welcoming.
After my previous noisy night with Lance and Mark in this superb hut, I chose to use the Guide’s room (Laurance told me it was the first time I’d done so since she had first been up there, in ‘75).
Breakfast ws a relaxed affair at 3am and then we were away into the starlit night. It was decidely colder than when going for the Kuffner, and I knew we were in for a great climb.
There were good tracks across to the familiar entry slope and rimaye. Ice tools dug in nicely and soon we were on the steeper ground. Keeping one eye on Ian to see if he was getting any complications after the Kuffner, I climbed steadily up into the growing light. Ian was doing fine.
Towards dawn, a Dutch pair and two Spanish teams joined us via the ‘Left Edge’ route. There was no particular hurry, the weather was set fine, no need to put on a race, and we continued together for a hundred or so metres. The Spanish stopped for a rest on now much less steep ground, leaving us our Dutch pals to chat to. The steep finish onto the Tacul summit was easy and lashed to the cross, we marvelled at the views all around us. Our eyes naturally veered to Mont Maudit, and it was very clear where we had reached on the Kuffner. Much higher than I had realised, the Pointe Androsace is virtually the last technical region of the Kuffner Arete. We had been so close! Next time will be different.
The two Dutch lads shot away and were down to the Col du Midi well before us. We chose to vary the re-ascent to the Midi by climbing the left-hand arete to the Cosmiques hut. The plan was to finish on the Cosmiques Arete proper, avoiding the hour-long slog to the cable car. My first time on this usually innocuous-looking little spur, the climbing proved excellent and a little technical in places. I let Ian lead throughout and he enjoyed the challenge. They call this super little ridge, the Arete d’Laurance!
Coffee in the hut and then we looked at the Cosmiques Arete. The Dutch team had the same idea but on seeing how many teams were already cluttering up the abseil point (I counted at least ten teams) sense got the better hand and the normal walk up the arete was favoured. We could have been at the abseil point and certainly at the ‘aid wall pitch’ for quite a while with the queues, and the 3 O’Clock venue in the ‘Office’ for the World Cup match was calling. The Dutch team was still hanging in to the competition and it was Holland who were on that afternoon.
The Dutch lads also did the ‘walk’ rather than the arete climb and made it to the ‘Office’ in time for the match.
Ian would be off to Geneva later that evening and we talked of further challenges to be taken, one in particular!

July 4th, 5th & 6th

Mont Blanc from the Tete Rouse Hut

I met up with the team at 9am on the 4th as planned. Hannah been to the Arolla area with the team of four, but due to an unfortunate injury, one of the team had to drop out.
I was recruited to be the guide for Stan, a Belgium living in London, and a tall and large well built man who was an important figure in the hotel business.
We got on very well immediately. Hannah had the two other lads and we were to travel only to the Tete Rouse Hut today. Firstly checking equipment and day food/water supplies, we then took our cars and cares to Les Houches for the midday lift to Bellevue. Soon we were walking through the snow to the ridge. The weather was very fine, so there were high hopes of success on the Blanc.
At the Hut, several other British guides were also going the same route - a 2am start to the Gouter and after a short rest, to the summit. We would descend all the way to the Tete Rouse hut again that afternoon. We relaxed with the clients and after the evening meal, advised everyone to an early bed, ready for the morrow.

The muscles need tweaking early in the morning, but soon we were clad in crampons and fleeces and on the approach to the Grande Couloir. It was a fine night, cold and clear and with the snow lying in the couloir, very little danger of stonefall that morning. We were all soon across, jostling for positions on the ridge up to the Gouter Hut, with the many other climbers, mostly from Spain and the eastern countries. It was still very dark when we got to the hut but we sorted the teams out for food and drinks and rested for a short time.
The summit push was on.
Very much a similar pattern emerged as with all my ascents from the Gouter, I created a steady trek at a comfortable speed (for me as well as the others) and we emerged at the Vallot in good time. From this point the trek becomes more arduous and the pace slowed. I was quite a way ahead of Hannah and the two lads, but Stan was going well. Nevertheless, the top 300 metres is always tough. We pushed slowly on and with delight, curved over the final slopes to the summit. Jon and his team were right behind me and a friendly banter with all around ensued. Photos taken, flags unfurled and after drinks and chocolate, we turned for home. Hannah was just a few minutes behind by now and we congratulated everyone for the success. Then it was off down the Bosses Ridge and a rest at the Vallot Hut. The morning had dawned before the summit and in increasingly warmer conditions, we made our way down to the col and over the Dome du Gouter. Together with several other parties, we took the tedious descent back to tha Gouter Hut.
Stan and I had some food and drink in the Hut, Olivier, his wife and their team of caretakers at the refuge making us very welcome. Olivier mentioned the workmen had actually started that day on the construction of the new Refuge du Gouter, planned for opening around 2020. I can hardly wait.
An hour down the ridge is usual and the wire beckoned for its use with some stonefall occurring as we climbed easily down to the traverse. Linking us with a 10 metre lead, we quickly crosssed and were pleased to have no stonefall at all.
Soon we were relaxing in the refuge again, and after a good night’s sleep, we took a 7am breakfast and were off, down to the Nid d’Aigle and the train. The cable car was on time and we were soon in our own cars, heading for the hotel in Chamonix Sud.
I parted company with a great team in the early afternoon, and sped off to Argentiere, chores to be done, clothes washed and more rest.
A superb outing.

7th - 10th July

The Hohlaubgrat (Allalinhorn - 2027 metres) then Mont Blanc (4810 metres) (Traverse)

I woke early on the 7th. I had more than one hundred miles to drive, over to Sass Grund and the Schonblick Hotel where I would meet Lance and Mark. The task - to get this father and son team up the Allalinhorn by a route that would be new to me, the Hohlaubgrat, a splendid prospect. I had chosen to save some cash and not go over the night before, but I had failed to get a Swiss Vignette for the motorway travel. I took a chance assuming that at that time in the morning, the way would be clear. I got lucky, and arrived on time in Sass Grund.
Mark and Lance both looked fit. They had obviously trained for their forthcoming Mont Blanc traverse with me, after this warm-up in Sass Grund/Sass Fee. With Kevin they had already climbed the Weissmeiss (4107 metres) and a Via Ferrata on the Jagerhorn.
We had plenty of time and i packed the lads into my car and drove around tO Sass Fee and the metropolis that acts as a superb resort, summer and winter. Parking the car, we loaded up the rucksacks and walked through town and down to the Metro Allain lift station. It had been a while my last use of this lift system but was amazed at the advantage one gets, when going to the Brittania Hut for some longer climbs, or the Allalinhorn by the superb but short west-northwest Ridge. The classic Hohlaubgrat (east-northeast) Ridge was our target and started from the Brittania hut at (3030 metres).
It was good to see the elderly guardian, Terasa, again after so long. We recognised each other quickly and soon I had all details of rooms, breakfast times (4am) and boots were drying in the strong afternoon sun on the verander.
Around 3.30pm, Mark and I agreed a snack would be nice, so we ordered a rosti each. Quite a mistake when I saw how large a ’snack’ it would be. I managed it, but we both felt we were in for trouble at 6.30pm and the evening meal? I slipped away for a rest on my bunk, but half an hour later, i needed to shirk off that rosti. Donning the hut’s plastic shoes, I mademy way with a camera to the top of the nearby Kliene Allalinhorn, a superb,striking little hill overlooking the hut. I’d seen it and climbed it many times before, and today was as good. I also got a good view and some good pictures of tomorrow’s climb. The exercise had worked and the evening meal was despatched with ease.
4am and we were up and eating breakfast. There were a couple more teams also bound for the same route, and I wanted if possible to be the lead team on reaching the rocky step near the summit. I’d heard tales of rockfall, of chaos with people not being able to climb these rocks? I was interested in their stature but mostly concerned about stonefall.
So we made it to the front going down to the glacier. Soon, headlights were unnecessary and I made a curving line keeping to the cliffs on our right. It was simple trekking in crampons and as we curved higher, the line was clear for our access to the ridge itself. Dodging the one or two innocuous creavsses, we pulled away from the other teams and in a couple of hours we were on the steeper ridge.
The superb track made it all so delightful and as we zig-zagged ever higher toards the final rock step, I wondered why on earth I’d never done this route before? I guess because most times had called for the Strahlhorn (4190 metres) ascent from the hut.
We were soon at the base of this 50 metre band of rock, often steep, always loose, but adorned in bolts and fixed ropes. Even without the aid it was great climbing in crampons, something fairly new to the lads. I gave them their first instruction on climbing rock with crampons, and they thouroughly enjoyed the brief time there.
A few metres higher and a wonderful summit ridge appeared. We were well ahead of other teams now so could relax on the summit cross for a time, before reversing the flat ridge to the top of the W.N.W. Ridge, our straightforward descent to the Metro Allain.
I hadn’t enjoyed such a climb for years, and I’ll be back!
We soon were off the mountain and back at the car park. I drove the lads back to their hotel and excused myself, making my way down town to the Zubbruggen gite, a place I’ve used a few times before. Included in the gite cost is a super breakfast across the road at the hotel. Booking in, I was amazed to find no-one else was staying? Oh well…!
Joining Lance, Mark, Kevin and his other clients, Mike and Sarah at the hotel that night, we were stunned to see the quality and quantity of the meals we ordered. I stepped across the road and up to the gite, where I was soon fast asleep.

Next morning, after a superb breakfast, I bought a Swiss Motorway vignette from the post office, picked up the lads from their hotel and drove over to Argentiere for the Mont Blanc ascent. Taking advantage of being back in my own place, I parked the lads at the ‘Office’ and took a shower, changed clothes, and rested until it was time to catch the Midi cable car for the Cosmiques Hut.

By now, I had no worrries on the lad’s capabilities, but was stil concerned slightly about the stamina required to traverse the Mont Blanc. I need not have worried. Apart from one bottleneck situation on the Maudit slab (where I broke with convention and overtook everyone I could on the fixed rope leading to the shoulder). It was do that or freeze to death with inactivity. The lads had no option but to follow me and I hear tell they were impresseed with the action. The result? We were on our own, and the joy of moving steadily up the final metres to the summit was lovely. I’d never felt so fit and strong on this tough section before.
The summit was fairly quiet, and we made the most of photos, rest and food/drink, before deciding to go down the Gouter route rather than the up and down (and finally up) of reversing our ascent route. I also knew from Laurence in the Cosmiques Hut, that a storm was forecast for sometime that day. To be caught out in the open on the way back to the Cosmiques hut is something I’d done before - no more! At least there are three huts, a train and a cable car to shelter in on this descent.
Still tiring, the descent was completed to the Nid d’Aigle before the clouds rolled in. We were on the train at 3pm, moments before the heavens opened. Lightning, thunder and torrential rain all at once and it continued to when we had to exit the train. Mark took one look at me and we both hurled ourselves out of the inadequate shelter of the train station, and ran like fury up the short hill to the cable car station and into the cafe. We were already like drowned rats and Lance, appearing a few minutes later, was no different. In fact, everyone was the same! I’d not seen as bad a storm as this one for a long time.
Of course the cable car wasn’t running. Along with many other climbers and walkers, we had to wait until the storm had passed. It did eventually and we made Les Houches and Winky’s car without further ado, although the odd clap of thunder kept us wondering if the cable car would ever run again that night?
Winky had been waiting at the Les Houches terminus for us and soon we were off to my car at the Midi station and then in convoy up to Argentiere, where the volvo sped off back to Sass Grund, and me to my shower and dry clothing.
What a great trip!

July 11th - 17th

A week off!

July 18th - 25th

La Dolcevita Rules OK?

Observatory Ridge

I’ve been wanting to do a winter ascent of this route for years.

The book says.. ‘the most difficult of the classic Nevis ridges….’,  so I’ve always treated it with some respect when considering it for a client day.

Today we were very relaxed and with my recent ascents on the Ben and in the Gorms, I realised the weather and conditions were perfect for an ascent of a big ridge. It might be too dry though and I was aware of the controversies currently surrounding doing winter routes in crampons when the rock is dry.

Steve and I made our way up Observatory Gully and roped up at the first obvious slanting snow ledge.

End of first pitch

Progress was easy and fun, and soon I was on the crest, on rocky ledges under some steeper rock.

The next section was pretty dry but because of the melt yesterday and the subsequent  lower temperatures, quite a bit of slabby verglas and thicker ice caused some problems, and I was thankful I’d left my crampons on. Runners were good though, the rock climbing not difficult, in fact I think I easily avoided some tricky rock by going out right onto snow. Soon we were out onto the crest of the main ridge. All perfect snow now and wonderful situations. The weather was as

High on the main ridge

good I’d seen recently and some moving together was possible due to the good footsteps on the ridge.I stopped for a belay for Steve so he could comfortably traverse into Zero Gully above that route’s steep sections. Deja Vu. I’d been here on Saturday. Once ropes were in a more vertical line, we resumed moving together, Steve doing fine moving with me on the incredibly hard snow, with the occasional ice screw runner. I was soon near the top.

With conditions as they are at the moment, if the temperature stays low, we are in for a terrific May on the Ben and elsewhere.

Green Gully p3

“Hi Smiler”. I gazed up and twenty or so metres ahead of me, a tall dark figure strode down the snow towards Jo and I. Still not recognising Mike, I replied,

“How the heck can you recognise me from so far?” Of course, in seconds we were together, doing the obligatory ‘guide hand shake’ and chatting about routes done and things to come. Mike headed down, complete with camera clutching valuable shots for Alan’s new winter guide.

Jo on pitch 3 Green Gully

Jo and I had topped out on Green Gully earlier that morning. We had had some idea Green would be good, even after Zero on Saturday had been soft and serious, because the temperatures had dropped considerably, and in fact walking up the Alt a’Mhullin at 9am it felt quite cold - good!

Di was at the CIC hut and we exchanged the usual banter. Always a cheery so and so, I wished her well on Tower ridge and we were off up Corrie na Ciste for Green Gully. It would be Jo’s first Grade 4 but I was sure she would be fine today. And so she was.

Corrie na Ciste 12-04-2010

Of the five pitches, the third steep bulge was the best, giving perfect ice, not too hard, not too soft, and compared to Saturday, a screw runner felt strong.

Green Gully p1

I gave Jo the top pitch and explained the process of a stomper belay to bring me up. She cruised the pitch efficiently. I was quite surprised as I turned the small cornice by a soft and steep snow arete. It was quite bold I thought, but Jo assured me she had felt quite comfortable on the lead.

This is where I came in today. We trekked up to the summit, passing  ‘Laird N0. 2′ on the way, (people always suggest Alan is No. 1 Laird of the Ben?).

After chatting to the many summit folk on the glorious summer afternoon, Jo took the opportunity of pointing out peaks in the far distances, naming them accurately. We continued down the Red Burn, using Mike’s superb bum slide to great advantage and cutting such corners took almost an hour off the journey back to the car park.

Another great day out and still more is possible. Friday will be next though as I’m house-husband with Clare away for a week.

Weather, stay cool, please.

Orion Direct? Maybe not.

I call Richard the Yorkshire Terrier, because he’s always up for anything, he is very strong, carries the rope all the time, and never complains. so when he rang and asked what we were up for this weekend, I said “let’s have a look at Orion Direct?”.
“I’m on for that” he exclaimed excitedly.
We met up at 07.00am at the gondola station and were soon heading up the alt a’Mhullin. We paused at the new CIC Hut and I showed Richard around this great newly-extended hut.
Off again and we returned aagin to staring at our feet, as we trekked up to and into Observatory Gully. Passing underneath the Minus Gullies and on up towards Orion, I was soon feeling our intended target was perhaps a little too sketchy for me, so we turned our attentions to Zero Gully. We passed and chatted to the two guys just starting Observatory Eidge and they spoke of some guys going for Zero. We soon could see these two guys a long way up already and, after kitting up below the steep central gully and ignoring the continuous spindrift coming down, I set

The serious first ang pitch of zero

 off up this ultra-famous Grade 5.
Pretty soon I realised I would have to be resolute and push on carefully, as the runners (screws) were of minimal quality and the snow only just hard enough to hold an axe. One couldn’t really afford to simply pull up on a tool without the great concern of it pulling.
So a careful system of transfering weight onto footholds became the order of the first long and quite steep first pitch. I took my time, made no rapid moves, all had to be calculated carefully, each weighting of each axe and each foot done with some trepidation.
Slowly the pitch unravelled, the odd delay as I waited for a spindrift flow to cease.The much sought-after belay arived none too soon, but at least it had pegs. Richard seemed to take as long as me, for which I was grateful for, as each glance at the pegs had me concerned about their strength, as rusty as they were.
I know Richard found it hard too, because he complained about not feeling too well. I put that down to the fact he’d had 2 hours sleep since the drive from down south.

The easier second pitch

We swapped places and the next pitch was much better. I even refused to pass a good belay afer twenty metres and Richard was again soon with me. I remembered the climb from ‘75 when I was with Wilco, he always at the sharp end, and recalled a traverse into the main gully line which had seemed to end the difficulties? Was this it, I wondered?
Moving carefully up on some rock edges until the snow resumed, I relaxed a touch thinking it would be plain sailing now. Wrong! Yes, the moves rightwards had been tricky, but the gully continued to rear up steeply with alarming regularity.
Totally committed now, I paced myself on each steep section, Richard also climbing well and admirably making no mistakes.
Suddenly. I knew we’d cracked the hardest sections. We were now gaining on the two lads from

The final slopes

 Galasheilds and soon I was chatting to one whilst he belayed his leader. Richard never got the chance to talk to anyone but me, as these guys were wasting no time now the climbing standard had relented. On and on up the easier angled (but still quite serious) gully we went. I gave Richard the top pitch and soon we were striding across the narrow ridge to the top of Ben Nevis.
There were many folk on the summit in glorious sunshine and after saying a few words to the other Zero guys, we drank our tea and juice and headed for No. 4 Gully.
This idea changed within a few metres of by-passing Gardyloo Gully. The snow was so soft. I soon decided No. 4 could be arkward and my working day should have finished, so we slid effortlessly down the snow to the Red Burn, across to the Half-way Lochan path and on down to the car.
A longer descent? Maybe but my hands were in my pockets!

11th April 2010

Slim Pickings in the sunshine.

Heading for a snowless seam

Slim pickings indeed in the ‘Gorms. The sun shone all morning and the temperatures rose and rose.
There were hardly any good conditions over the standard Grade 2 gullies and slopes.
Richard wanted to do a climb he’d not done before. What was my biggest ambition in the Sneachda corrie? I know - the Seam.
I’ve always been slighly put off this great looking line since Wilco told me it was arkward, and Andy N. had told me only last week it sometimes is straighforward and sometimes tricky.
However, today it was completely different. You could say it was completely bare of snow or ice, apart from a few patches here and there. But it still looked enticing, so we went for it.
The snow slopes below the final chimney still needed tools and crampons, and when I brought Richard across to the final stance below the main pitch, I could see it would be purely rock climbing on the pitch. There was mud on ledges and in the groove every so often and I felt my crampons might be useful here and there?
The whole pitch left me speechless. It was jug city, beautiful climbing, very well protected by

Richard on the final chimney

 good nuts and a fantastic excecise in bridging and pulling up on superb holds. In ten minutes or so I was at the bomb-proof stance just below the ridge, acheing for more of the same. Richard cruised the pitch, also in crampons, and he too wanted it to go on and on. Such was the quality of the climbing.
I am already yearning for a cold spell to return this season, or another dump of snow, or at least the winter of 2011. I can’t wait to do it again and again.
We skirted around to the Goat Track and carefully picked our way down to the valley floor. I asked Richard what we should do next in this area of slim Pickings today.
“Anything after that would be an anti-climax. Let’s bail while we are on top?”

Nearing the top of The seam

As we jettisoned all the gear to our sacks, even Patrick nearby couldn’t persuade us Fingers Ridge would be as good today as a rock climb. We had done it only a couple of weeks ago though.
I couldn’t get the memory of the exquisite rock climbing in crampons out of my head for 80% of the walk out. Soon the sight of the hordes of cars brought me to my senses.
Are they having as good a day as we’ve had, I wondered?
We’ll never know, but we were happy.

Curved Ridge approach

deposited the container in a safe spot near the summit. Jack was eleven years old then and was back here for the first time since that day, with Bill, to do some climbing and visit the summit.
The plan had always been that on Friday, we would have a day in the Cairngorms, establishing Jack, now tweny-one years old, as a climber. Then a day on the Ben, and finally, a climb of the Curved Ridge.
Waiting outside the station in Aviemore for the night train to arrive, I pondered about parking up and going into the station and finding out when the train would actually arrive (it already had done so!). Half an hour had passed since our agreed meeting time at eight o’clock and still no one emerging from the station. I suddenly spotted them both in the waiting room. They had arrived some time ago but had not noticed the car regularly arriving, parking  for a few minutes, and then moving away. Apologies came from both sides for the errors and soon we were gearing up and heading to the ski car park.

It was forecast to be glorious weather. A perfect day wedged between snowy scenes and so we had to make the best of it. The boys had had a s0-s0 journey, gettting very little sleep, but they were up for as good a day as I could provide.

Fiachaill Ridge & Buttress

With Jack’s lack of experience, we wanted to do some snowcraft first. But the weather was fantastic. One just couldn’t spend a day like today sulking in the depths of

On the Fiachaill Ridge

Sneachda. So we went for the Fiachaill Ridge. If course, Jack was fit and strong, and much more able than at first thought, and soon we were roping up at the col. The tricky sections were splendid and we raced through to the summit.

Going down the Goat Track I once again could not resist

In Spiral Gully

 veering right as soon as possible, today into Spiral Gully. Magnificent neve. It was magic, and Jack (and Bill) loved every move. topping out, I learnt that neither had been to the Cairngorm summit. The weather was just too good not to go there so we hiked across and up to the summit, Bill showing his usual walking strength and leaving us behind, his world was his own. We re-united and made our way down to the Ptarmigan resturant, expecting just to have a break and then walk down the piste. I suddenly remembered my last visit and how we snagged a lift on the Funicular.

Success again and soon we were back down at the car, ready and early to drive over to the west coast for plan b and c.

The Bank Street Lodge in Fort William is at least ten times better and more comfortable than it’s early days, ten years or more ago. Splendid accommodation, with a superb and very handy car park, and a short walk down to either the Nevis Sport bar (for great bar meals) and then the Crofter bar (for Sky TV and the football) and of course a little more beer!

Difficult section of Curved Ridge

Forecasts change and Bill suggested Sunday would be better for the Ben Nevis day, so, still getting up at 5.45am, we sped off down to Glencoe with slight rain and snow falling.
It didn’t affect (and never has) my feelings about Curved Ridge. This, one of the great times one can experience in the mountains, lived up fully with it’s reputation and my memories of thirtyor more years of regular visits on this climb. Sweeping newly fallen snow off rock to expose superb handholds, we inched our way to the top of the ridge and headed cautiously into Tower Gap. The snow was falling but was actually quite fun, so I made a lovely detour onto

Gloomy but great climbing on the ridge

Crowberry tower. We gazed into slightly improving visibility at the sheer drops all around us before returning the same way to above Crowberry Gully L.Hand finish at Crowberry Gap.

Soon we were moving together up the summit slopes. We hadn’t seen another climber since leaving the car. That was all to change on leaving the summit. As we headed for Lagangarbh Corrie, we passed numerous climbers heading for the summit. Piccadilly circus, no. but it was the Easter break after all. Carefully front-pointing down the couloir we reached easy ground, and shortly after, met up with a

Jack on the summit -Stob Dearg

Bill & Jack April 3rd 2010

family (presumably a husband and two youngsters being led by a mother). we exchanged conversations such as “Where are you off to with no axes or crampons between you” (or thoughts such as those). I think my gentle scolding did the trick as we never saw them go much higher, and we all kept watch on their progress over our shoulders as we continued down towards the SMC (Lagangarbh) Hut.

We interupted our journey back to Fort William with a round of soft drinks in the Clachaig, and finally deposited our considerably damp gear and clothing in the drying room at Bank Street Lodge. The evening started off at the Grog and gruel, a fine restaurant, followed by me retiring back to the lodge early and the lads exploring a couple of bars until the eatly hours beckoned them to bed. It was to be the big one tomorrow, Ben Nevis but I wasn’t sure everything would go to plan if we were to have an early start again, after such a late night.

I needn’t have worried. The team was fine at 5.45am again, but the weather wasn’t! It was steadily raining. Oh dear, another bad day beckoned. Strange though, as the forecast said it would clear and leave a fine afternoon. Would that be early enough for a long route? We’d have to go and see.

The renovated CIC Hut

Sure enough, the rain low down did turn to snow in the Alt a’ Mhullin (and some big flakes as well). The track was surprisingly clear though. I should have guessed. The Students weekend! Reaching the CIC hut at 8.30am, the place was inundated with climbers, both inside, outside, round the back etc etc. I took the lads inside the hut and there I met many friends and aquaintences. It was a social gathering but by now, many were dubious of getting out onto the routes, me especially, as the risk of avalanches I considered would be quite high, with all the fresh snow on the harder base everywhere. We watched climbers on early attempts to reach routes floundering in the deep snow under Vanishing Gully, some hardy(?) guys at the bottom of Orion Direct, and even when good climbers I knew arrived with positive thoughts on routes, I had the distinct feeling this was not good for Jack. His blister in the borrowed double boots had slowed him considerably on the walk up, and I couldn’t justify even the Ledge route for him in those conditions. So I called a retreat, but I wasn’t alone. Many people turned down from the hut that day. A wasted opportunity? Maybe. A good move? Maybe. Who is to tell. It’s only when things go well

Ben Nevis Dam Car Park 4-4-10

 or wrong that the proof is there. Convincing the lads there would be other times to come, we retreated down to the car, still passing many climbers on their way up.

We returned to my home hoping to get out in the late afternoon on the Inverness climbing Wall, but sadly that was closed. (Closed. At Easter?) The lads’ weekend finished with a walk around the forest track at the end of Loch Ness and a nice beer at the Dores Inn. A final drive to the railway station in Inverness and the sleeper, and they were gone.

Promises of better times and climbs on another trip rang out.

Rick and Andy were hoping for better conditions this year. Last winter, after some snow

Rick, Andy and Ciaran on snowcraft skillsiaran

 skills training with Douglas along as well, they had all climbed Aladdin’s Mirror with me in deep gloomy weather and soft snow. Rick certainly felt a little uncomfortable at times on the belays and wanted this winter to get  more accustomed to the proper climbing of routes. We had Ciaran with us as well, a young and strong chap but he’d no real experience on steep snow routes. So a day on snow skills was necessary.

Assisting me on the skills session was Pete, who has a good

More snowcraft skills

 chance of becoming a guide if he can accumulate the necessay big alpine and Scottish routes for his CV. He performed well and everyone enjoyed the day. We decided the Fiachaill Ridge looked splendid and so next morning we waded through still soft snow up to the steepening slopes under the ridge.

We were pleasently suprised when just reaching the ridge proper, we hit perfect neve, and soon we were romping up to the more serious section of the route. Putting the team onto one rope, I led up through the difficult sections in deteriorating visibility. Topping out, I led off down towards the Goat track. I checked the compass. It was soon apparent that the virtual nil-visibility in the driving snow and the wind was veering me off course. Reverting to the known skills, and because we hadn’t travelled very far, I navigated my way and

 the team back to the top of the Fiachaill Ridge and we

Visibility not good

descended the easy left-hand side to the main lower section. By this time all was quieter and we relaxed, making our way back to the ski-station, all thouroughly wet through by now. 

The lads agreed that the day had been exciting enough, yet still good fun, and we packed up and drove back, to say our goodbyes until another time.Rick and Andy would be keen for more rock like last time in North Wales. we’ll see.

The Runnel

Ciaran still had a day left with me. We returned in much improved weather and got stuck straight into good steep climbing. The Runnel was superb with hard neve and in great weather now, we climbed this super route in fine style. Going down the Goat track I couldn’t ressist turning left and climbing Red gully,

The Runnel

 in it’s snowy state it was  much easier than of late but still wonderful as a grade 2 ice route.

I wanted to descend, as on a previous week’s course, down Jacobs ladder into Hidden Chimney but the cornice was a little too risky so we opted for the descent under the Mess of Pottage buttress. Hidden Chimney was, as always,

Ciaran in Hidden Chimney

brilliant and we were soon heading back down the Fiachaill of Corrie Casse and the car park, making plans for further adventures, notably rock climbs in the Lakes in June. I hope the plan comes off?

Tom and Gary arrived with 5 days planned on the hills.

Some doubtful (forecasted) weather turned out better than expected and we had a great week together.

Get your feet up!

Red Gully

Day 2 - A fabulous day in great weather and we made the most of it. Along the Fiachaill Ridge, down the Goat track, up Red Gully, down Jacobs Ladder and finally up Hidden

Hidden Chimney

Chimney, and still time for tea and cakes at 4pm.

Day 3 - Not so good weather today so just a couple of climbs. Up Goat track Gully and

The Runnel

 then the Runnel. The tea and cakes were as good. We took off for the west coast in good time and were ensconced in the superb Bank Street Lodge by 6pm, eating and drinking in the excellent Crofter bar

Day 4 - Off up the Ben in reasonable weather and conditions. A superb ascent of Ledge Route and down for the BIG match. Result? 3-1 to the Wolves. Great!

Ledge Route

Ledge Route

Ledge Route

Day 5 - In line for a rapid drive south for the lads, Curved ridge on the Buchaille was

Curved Ridge

 chosen as the final climb. Not much snow but still Great winter mountaineering and a wonderful day out.

Looking forward to more adventures with Tom and Gary.

March 18th

It was a long shot - a one-day ascent of a gully on the Ben followed by a romp around the Carn Mor Dearg Arete.

Nothing came off. The weather forecast was awful for the west coast, so as Steve could manage it, a change of location was agreed.

Walking into Sneachda was pretty horrific as well, and we both struggled to compete with the deep snow and the incredible wind. At one point I was actually lifted over 10ft to my left before being deposited, thank goodness in the deepening snow. Steve wasn’t faring much better either.

I had some idea of what to go for, but on reaching the corrie floor, all ideas of a gully or buttress waned.

We had just started to walk out when the West Coast boys appeared. Mike’s first words..”Why is it always so windy in the ‘Gorms”, gave some indication of concern, but true to his strength and nature, he forged past Steve and I and headed for some horrow-show day.

I couldn’t let the East Coast down so about turned and followed his nice tracks until we caught his party up.

“What are you going for”, I asked.

“Not too sure. Fluted Buttress Direct is worth a shot” he said and then added,

“Andy (Nisbet) is behind us and coming soon”.

I looked forward to seeing the cheery face of the ice guru somewhere on the crag later, but first it was decision time. What on earth to do? Mike’s military background (and size) meant he at least stayed on the ground when walking whereas Steve and I were being blown about like nobody’s business, and I wasn’t to happy with the avalanche possibilities anyway.

Aladdin's Mirror Direct

Steve had done very little steep ice so the Mirror direct would provide a bit of fun?

As we wandered through the gloom into Aladdin’s Mirror itself, it was clear the Direct was pretty short with the build-up of snow, maybe 20 ft on the front and half that on the right, this the way most people tackle this steep little so and so.

Aladdins Mirror Direct

We waited for five minutes or so and with AN chomping at our heels, he doing our route as well, I got cracking with the climbing. Even with the shortness, it was still nice and steep, but after a few moves I was over the vertical and soon at the in-situ gear at the stance. While I was setting the belay up,

AN appeared in the centre of the ice, having swiftly despatched the harder line on the front. We chatted, while Steve got established on the ice and by the time he had reached me, AN and I had agreed no-one was going up the rest of the Mirror as planned. It was too serious.

Steve got lowered off and I abseiled, stringing my long ropes back up the easy couloir as we waded down together and we sat behind the largest boulder we could find (very ineffective cover!)

AN and his client, with Steve and I, we battled and waded our way out of the corrie 

Shelter, what shelter?

in the incredibly soft and deep snow and eventually, all a little weary now, we arrived back to the ski station.

Funny? no skiing? Ha ha!

Steve would catch an early train home instead of spending the planned night in Aviemore. He missed the train and so did spend the afternoon and evening in a pub or two. Ah well?

What of Mike? I read his blog later and saw one picture of Fluted Buttress Direct. He wrote,

‘It was good fun. and a good climb…..’

Ummmm, author’s license I think? Good on him though.

Steve? Next year for the CMD Arete and the north face?

March 13th & 14th

Winter skills again

Murky weather indeed

The old holes from last week’s course in the snow under the Goat track were not visible on Saturday. But there hasn’t been much snow for a while and yet there was still lots to play with.
Euan and Steve arrived from London and Edinburgh respectivly and were keen to get aquainted for the first real time in crampons and winter techniques. Saturday was pretty awful weather so I was pleased we could get cracking through the course with the minimum of delays.
As this snowcraft course was quite light of clients, we were able to take a rapid learning curve and endless slides of ice axe breaking and holding leader falls on snow belays of all kinds. The avalanche tests were very educational as well. Because of the repetition available, the lads produced some excellent performances by the end of the first day. We all retired (a bit damp) to Aviemore and reunited in the bar to watch almost the whole of the Scotland - England Six Nations match. Honours were even by the end of the game but neither Euan or Stuart were very happy with the draw. I was relatively impressed with what I thought was a good game? What do I know abour Rugby?
Sunday dawned and with reasonable (but a little cloudy) weather, we took the chance to put into practice what had been learnt the day before.
Aladdin’s Mirror gave the lads their first winter snow climb, enabling lots of snow anchors to be used, as well as the more secure rock belays, using slings and nuts.

Traversing to Aladdin's seat

especially with the characteristic Cairngorm wind now at full pelt and the clag right down. It was time to call it a day and the boys sped off to Edinburgh with plans to come back and do more winter stuff if possible, and some intensive rock climbing with me in the dryer times ahead.

I suppose 07.15 at Dores is not quite early enough for a Ben Nevis route with the magnitude of something on the Minus face, but there again, we had planned to go to the Cairngorms. A good route for David would be worthwhile, although he did point out it was to be the least good weather day of the week.
Driving over to Annoch Mor we pondered on how the car park track would be, but we tried it anyway. Needless to say, the ice on the track proved too bad even for Dave’s new 4 X 4. We reached a high point just below the middle gate, turned the big car around with some difficulty and parked unabtrousively off the track, and set off with heavy sacks to the CIC Hut.
Passing Nick (Bullock) and partner some way below the hut, he told me it was a lightnIng visit for him from Chamonix but the previous two days’ weather had been great and conditions had allowed him and his pal to make ‘a couple of good Routes’ on the Ben. I dreaded to think what they were?
It must have been around 10am at the CIC Hut and at least an hour later at the foot of the gully. The ice looked steep but also good and I soon was on the move. No large icicle over the roof at 30 metres so, as I had done once before, I angled left and approached the break which had been pretty serious last time.This time it was all different, good ice, plenty of activity signs from previous ascents and soon I was traversing back into the overhung gully directly above the start of the route. Photos were too complicated to get done on the whole route, with the snow falling and spindrift problems, and Dave said he hardly ever saw me on each pitch after the first 10 metres, so I was grateful for at least one shot of Dave has he finished the first pitch.

The old pegs looked poor but backed up by a good Deadman I felt secure. David made short work of the pitch and we prepared for the second long pitch. This turned out to be fabulous climbing, a steep bulge to get over but with good placements and hooks, it went quite easily. A long stretch of easier gully followed until I was able to belay below the final (also long) runout.

1st pitch (top of) Minus 3 Gully (grade 4,5) Ben Nevis

By now we were motoring and although the snow had started, I guessed it was about 2.30pm when I reached the big in-situ rope belay, the signal that a leftwards traverse would bring us back onto the North East ridge and our way off. It was a  little too late to even contemplate continuing up the ridge, with the dreaded Mantrap still to overcome, so we edged our bets and made the traverse on the ridge. Different conditions result in a different perspective. I located the big block anchor from where I’d abbed easily down onto snow and an easy zig-zagging access down to the Alt a’ Mhullin a few years before. Today was different. All over the flanks of the buttress were glistening ice bulges interspersed with snowy ramps.I could tell the descent wasn’t going to be as easy.
No real need to abseil from the block today, we pitched it down to the crest of the ridge on our left and spent the next (possibly) two and a half hours carefully front-pointing down ramps and traverses until, in worsening weather I concluded a way off onto easy ground was possible with one long abseil. Leaving one of my many (Chamonix purcashed) ice screws in place, we swooped down and then traversed across and even slightly back up, all on easy ground until, on cresting a ridge, we saw the way out. The light was only just fading.
It looked easy, but still a long way. David was however soon on safe and easy soloing ground well before the 60 metre rope ran out. We were soon reunited and taking coils we short-roped quickly down to the CIC Hut in the now distinctly gloom. It was just a quarter to six. A splendid outing.
You couldn’t say the remainder of the day was as good? Trailing down the Alt a’ Mhullin was hard going in our wet states and heavy sacks. Then we had to reverse our approach walk from the dam car park (we were reasurred that no-one had managed to get up there all day). Very dark now,  it was clear just how far we had had to walk that morning. Pitch black by the time we reached the car, but that old saying came back to me. ‘One hasn’t had a good day on the Ben unless one gets back in the dark’.
I’ll settle for clear skies, dry ice and a ice-free car track any day.
It was 9.30pm by the time Dave unloaded the gear and our day out was over.

18th - 21st February - Glorious weather and conditions everywhere. Richard and I took the opportunity of doing a couple of slightly harder, better routes before the weekend snowcraft course.
Thursday saw us on Fingers Ridge and in great conditions we soon caught up Alan Hailwood’s party, handing over several bits of gear unfortunately dropped or left behind by the two lads. Taking our time near the top proved advantageous. When I climbed the difficult and serious top wall, I was being watched by Alan and his team from the top of Red Gully (they even videoed me for Alan’s blog). A great route and Richard claimed it was one of his best days out.

Patey's Route Richard on the hard moves

The following day we were back up in the corrie and on Patey’s Route. I hadn’t done this since years back when I recalled some quite serious overhangs and in-situ gear to protect the harder moves.Today was a complete change. Ok, one overhang required a forceful pull over on axes but ot was much more straightforward and the rest of the gully was superb. The second bulge was avoided by a tricky rightwards move on iced-up rock, with a long bridge out and some great hooks to pull across on. We went down Aladdin’s Mirror and stopped to do both sides of Aladdin’s Mirror Direct. No need to go to the top so we abbed off the convenient tat on the stance. A very good day.

The weekend’s snowcraft course had Joss, Jason, Javeira, Phillipa and Anne booked on, so Richard stayed on to lend a helping hand and do some observation and photography.
A very successful course and the team really enjoyed learning all the aspects of safe movement in winter conditions. i felt a few more days on ice axe breaking practice wouldn’t go amiss, but I had to concede the hard snow/ice just below a soft layer of powder snow everywhere didn’t really allow a vast amount of speedy sliding to take place. Techniques had to be practised in a short time span and the deep soft snow cleared first before useful slides were to be made.The lenght of pre-cleared slide determined the amount one could go down, before ploughing into the deep barrier of soft snow.No danger of not stopping!
Snow belays were however excellent, the deadman going in a very long way before coming to a halt, and no amount of clients’ pulling could shift it. Needless to say, the ice axe belays were equally sound too, and at least the clients could actually see the belay, as opposed to the Deadman invisible under the surface.
We couldn’t avoid the most beutiful weather and a trip up the Goat track, across the icy plateau and down the Fiachill of Corrie Casse ended a great weekend.
Saturday night in the Cairngorm Hotel was as usal great fun as well.