18th - 21st February - Glorious weather and conditions everywhere. Richard and I took the opportunity of doing a couple of slightly harder, better routes before the weekend snowcraft course.
Thursday saw us on Fingers Ridge and in great conditions we soon caught up Alan Hailwood’s party, handing over several bits of gear unfortunately dropped or left behind by the two lads. Taking our time near the top proved advantageous. When I climbed the difficult and serious top wall, I was being watched by Alan and his team from the top of Red Gully (they even videoed me for Alan’s blog). A great route and Richard claimed it was one of his best days out.

Patey's Route Richard on the hard moves

The following day we were back up in the corrie and on Patey’s Route. I hadn’t done this since years back when I recalled some quite serious overhangs and in-situ gear to protect the harder moves.Today was a complete change. Ok, one overhang required a forceful pull over on axes but ot was much more straightforward and the rest of the gully was superb. The second bulge was avoided by a tricky rightwards move on iced-up rock, with a long bridge out and some great hooks to pull across on. We went down Aladdin’s Mirror and stopped to do both sides of Aladdin’s Mirror Direct. No need to go to the top so we abbed off the convenient tat on the stance. A very good day.

The weekend’s snowcraft course had Joss, Jason, Javeira, Phillipa and Anne booked on, so Richard stayed on to lend a helping hand and do some observation and photography.
A very successful course and the team really enjoyed learning all the aspects of safe movement in winter conditions. i felt a few more days on ice axe breaking practice wouldn’t go amiss, but I had to concede the hard snow/ice just below a soft layer of powder snow everywhere didn’t really allow a vast amount of speedy sliding to take place. Techniques had to be practised in a short time span and the deep soft snow cleared first before useful slides were to be made.The lenght of pre-cleared slide determined the amount one could go down, before ploughing into the deep barrier of soft snow.No danger of not stopping!
Snow belays were however excellent, the deadman going in a very long way before coming to a halt, and no amount of clients’ pulling could shift it. Needless to say, the ice axe belays were equally sound too, and at least the clients could actually see the belay, as opposed to the Deadman invisible under the surface.
We couldn’t avoid the most beutiful weather and a trip up the Goat track, across the icy plateau and down the Fiachill of Corrie Casse ended a great weekend.
Saturday night in the Cairngorm Hotel was as usal great fun as well.

Right from the start, as the Meet leader for the Climbers’ Club ice climbing trip to Norway, I sensed this year’s icefest meet was going to be good. And it was.

 Initial reports about Ryan Air’s increasingly tighter and more expensive travel conditions were gloomy, but one of the intended team members came up with an option/variation for travel to Oslo - Norwegian Air to Oslo Gardermoen, the city’s main airport and not too far out of our way to Rjukan. The main advantage over Ryan air was the cost, and very favourable weight allowances.

Gardermoen receives flights from several UK airports, thirteen of the eventual team flying from Edinburgh or Heathrow, the rest sticking to Ryan Air from various UK airports, mainly Stansted and Liverpool.

Ryan Air and Norwegian Air (pretty well) matched each other for cheap flight ticket costs, but when it came to weight allowance, and to the cost each way of a sports bag, it was a totally different story. Much cheaper with the latter and a massive 40kgs allowed rather than 20kgs with the former. With the need to take fairly heavy bags of winter gear and ropes, this proved a godsend to many of us.

It was a huge difference when we arrived in Gardermoen though. A major airport, plenty of facilities open even at a late hour, easy locatable car hire desks, civilised organisation. Soon, a happy ‘Baker’s Dozen’ had loaded hire cars, switched Sat Navs on and were driving towards the city centre. ‘Doris’ re­calculated nicely when arriving at road works on the lengthy tunnel in the city, and with virtually spot-on the timing, three hours and seventeen minutes later, we pulled up at the Rjukan Gestegard Hostel. Messages and envelopes left at reception gave room numbers, keys and directions and soon we were cosily ensconced in warm beds.

 A marked difference to last year was the lack of crowds in the climbing areas. Usually one’s climbing was enjoyed alongside maybe three or four other visiting climbers, the only difference being at Krokan and Ozzimosis, where here, due to the un-serious nature of the access (not necessarily the climbs mind you) there were as usual a larger number of visitors. However, these never impeded our fun.

Conditions this year were excellent, not too cold and with reasonable, but usually slightly dull weather although there were also some splendid sunshine days. Little falling snow and good tracks in the gorge along both sides of the river to locate climbs, although some members did decide to get their feet wet occasionally.

There so many routes climbed this year that it would be a lengthy list if needed. Suffice to say, together we more or less climbed most of the routes under Grade 6, including many of the superlative Grade 5s in the ‘Heavy Water’ guidebook. A new and more modern guidebook is now overdue.

A couple of the more adventurous teams ended up doing the hardest climbs on the meet, but generally, there was a ‘fun’ atmosphere in the warm and spacious lounge each night after the day’s climbing, the wet gear, now ice had melted, drying out in the superb drying room in the basement, while some relaxed and others self-catered in the (slightly cramped but still usable) kitchen area.

The Meet continued in the same manner as all previous meets, breakfast at or before 8.00 o’clock, followed by day-food selection and then packing gear and off in teams by around 9am. There was never any need to rush, the climbing is always strenuous so three or four (up to 25/30 meter routes a day would prove ample fun, some of the longer routes in the gorge were usually enough as a ‘one-route’ day.

My thanks (as Meet leader) go to the following:

The superb Rjukan Gestegard - with the staff of Torbjorn, Anne, Ina and Freddie, plus a couple more (their names unfortunately escape me). And a special thanks to Freddie for the organisation of the great Pizza meal and party with drinks we had in splendid surroundings, shortly before returning to the UK.

Climbers’ Club (and Guests) - Matt McVeigh, Geoff Lowe, Trevor Langhorne, Steve Jenkins, Bryn Roberts, Dave Hayward, Peter Nugent, Chris Vernon, Myles and Nicola Jordan, Rob Aryton, Lee Leatherbarrow and Becky Moore, Paul Headland, Jim Slater, Phil Tomaszenski, Terry Kenny, Marje Mortimer, and the two latecomers who we never really had time to mix with, Cath Walton and Rick Wojtaszewski, they arriving just as we were due to come home.

To all of the personnel involved, I thank you all for providing another great icefest Meet for the Climbers’ Club, and I look forward to next February when we can again swing our axes and return to such comfort each day.

I realise after three consecutive year’s Meets at Rjukan now, past attendees may want to visit other areas over west, Hemsedal, Laerdal, Eidfiord etc, but with, as yet, scant knowledge of similar and superb accommodation in these (arguably as good for ice climbs) locations, I will be happy to continue to promote the Rjukan Meet, hopefully gaining new members each year.

Smiler Cuthbertson March 3^rd 2010

Chris Tingle & team with Donald

Chris, John and Ernie were joined on the 23rd January by Donald. The team sped up the Cairngorm road past the ever-growing prescence of the huskies and their teams of helpers. It was the annual husky race, amid the best conditions for three decades.

We trekked up to the base of Corrie a’nt Sneachda and over the next 48 hours, dug snow pit assessments and created belays on the snow slopes below the Goat Track. The Flat

 Ice under the Fiachill Ridge gave me good conditions for demos on ice screw belays, and some amusing antics with shovels under the snow-filled rodge across the corrie

Testing Ice screw anchors

 resulted in four excellent snow holes.

As a prelude to the lads’ future winter experiences, it was agreed the course was just right, and they left very happy and amazed at all the techniques they could now take away and practice further.

Alex Ravanel

I needed a break after  the shock of Chris and the avalanche horror. My son Laurie and I grabbed a plane at Liverpool’s John Lennon airport and touched down in Geneva, where my good friend and ace French guide, Alex, was waiting to drive us to Argentiere, Chamonix, for a week’s skiing and snowboarding.

Laurie ready to board

Thanks to the kindness of my friend and Client, Bernard, accommodation was very close to the Grande Montet ski station, so we had five wonderful days on the slopes around this great alpine valley. I knew I was escaping the tragedy of Chris, and often through the week I wondered how Jo was coping. News that I would not miss the funeral gave me some comfort.

Scotland gripped by snow

The journey back to a UK gripped by snow was less simple. Snow-bound airports all over Britain were causing travel chaos. Instead of three hours of simple flights, we spent three days holed up at two airports and finally arrived in Inverness to a wintry wonderland.

The funeral was to be the 21st January, and with only a few days of guiding to cater for, before going south again, I had a second holiday. Later, driving down and joining Doug Scott in the Lake District for the travel to Nottingham, we a good chance to make up lost time and

Doug's place

 reflect on the loss of our friend. Funerals are not my cup of tea at the best of times and when a close friend is involved, it’s worse. Meeting up with Bill in the pub after the ceremonies was a pleasant surprise and I thanked him for making the effort to come a long way north to see Chris off.

The young Astills

Jo, Rachel and her mother and sister were all strong and with half of the UK climbing world seemingly there, it was a terrific send-off for a smashing lad.

Bill & Smiler at Chris' wake

I drove back from Doug’s on the Friday morning and

Doug Scott and Bill in the crowded wake

 looked forward to the coming weekend’s snowcraft course. However, another task lay before me on entering the Highlands. Now Ed was in deep trouble with cancer and was back at home from the Glasgow clinic. I had to call and see him and Rona.

Ed Grindley at Rieff

Ed was better than I’d expected, but no-one knew what would happen, and we are all still waiting and hoping for the best. Only time will tell now.

The damp and gloom of autumn has receded and we have snow!

My first course for the 2009/2010 season was a five-day beginners course with Steve and Caroline starting on the 17th December.
I met them at the hostel in Aviemore on the Thursday morning and we sped up the road to Cairngorm station car park, happy in the knowledge the road wasn’t affected (just yet) by the recent and welcome snowfalls. It was the team’s first visit to the ‘Gorms, so there was plenty to show them. They’d also only spent a limited time (in Iceland) in crampons. However, in Corrie An’t Sneachda, they soon showed they were adequately competent so I prodeded to get stuck into snowskills under a snowy Goat Track.

Avalanche assessment was first - Were we justified in being there? The answer, that day alone of course, was yes, low avalanche risk showed after ‘boot block’ tests. This concurred with the avalanche forecast issued the day before. There was only about 2.5cms of fresh snow lying on th harder base, and that wasn’t very deep before gettting down to ground level.

Not too many layers for good demonstration purposes, but the guys got the picture (especially amusing was one of me jumping up and down trying to release the old ‘harder’ block under the softer top layer, to no avail I am sorry to say, as I sat and rested after the exertions.

Sliding was good though and the four main disiplines for axe breaking proved good fun and quite educational, especally the one without an axe. Amazing, Christine shouted.

Next came ‘climber security’ from a rising strength of snow belays,when roped up. The bucket seat, then the buried axe, then the T-axe, and finlly the final two snow belays, the Deadman plate and the snow bollard. I laboured the point about ignoring the ‘pear-shaped’ snow bollard diagrams in some of the older textbooks, insisting on the ‘upturned U’ shape, which retains the snow strength. I emphasised though, the use of the snow seat as the basis for all the belays, and again laboured the point about using a body belay for the rope, and the heels of boots working effectively, which allowed for a more ‘dynamic’arrest, as opposed to a ’snatch’ with a belay plate.

Amazingly, the afternoon was drawing on quickly so we sped across the the ‘flat Ice’ and both Steve and Caroline proceeded to hang off their two suitably-placed ice screws, which also suitably impressed them with the strength.

Day One drew to a close as we trekked out easily on the shallow depth of snow lying. A different story would ensue in a few days time.

Day Two surfaced with a problem. Caroline was unwell, and had to drop out of the proposed climb today. This was unfortunate as I wanted to get the two of them to climb Jacob’s Ladder, using all the belaying skills they had learnt on the first two days.
Reluctantly (without Caroline), Steve and I ventured once again into the corrie, but now it was snowing quite badly. Approaching the area of Sneachda, known as The Mess of Pottage Buttress, I determined the avalanche risk as considerable, but related it to our Guides’ ‘working grade’3 and proceeded to follow several other parties up to the halfway stage in the gully, where Hidden Chimmney breaks off left. From that point we were alone. It was too soon for Steve to start his leading role in these sort of conditions, so I led the four rope lengths up to what looked like a long final pitch.
I kept to the thinner snow on the vicinity of the rock walls until the snow depth had relented with the steeper gound, and climbed towards the cornice. The key exit lay in a trough of snow immediately below the steepest part of the cornice, and I front pointed up amzingly good and steep neve until I could lie in the trough. I then worked my way along the trough until the cornice receded and I was able to break through with ease. A really great pitch for a Grade one gully, especially for Steve on his first winter climb. He was elated on reaching the top.
Here though,it was horrenddous weather. The wind whipped the snow with some force into my face and I was thankful for the snow googles. Communication became less than perfect though, but Steve managed the pitch with admirable coolness (for his first cornice) and with Ron and Fiona appearing just as Steve topped out, it was a friendly team that opted for the Fiachall of Corrie Casse exit for the descent, and soon we were back at the car.
It was a little later than I’d expected back in Aviemore so I apologised to Steve for not seeing Caroline at the bunkhouse, and sped off up the A9 in worsening driving conditions.

Day Three - We now were in the full might of the northern highlands snow storms.
Our plan had been to drive over to the west coast and do some climbing, maybe a ridge on The Buchallie Etive Mor, on that day. The road conditions made it unwise to attempt the crossing via the Loch Laggan road, so we packed all the bags and proceeded to take the much slower and longer, but more certain, road up the A9 to Inverness then down the A82 to Fort William, where we were booked in to the Bank Street Lodge Bunkhouse. With the conditions on the roads, together with a fuse problem causing my heater to fail and needing to periodically change the fuse, it took us too long to consider a climb so we checked in the accommodation and had an early Nevis Sports Bar meal and a couple of pints,next to the most welcome and roaring open fireplace.

Day 4 - The Buchaille Etive Mor

It was time for some climbing and the ‘Buckle’ would be a great choice. Although Laggangarb Corrie is a notorious avalanche site, there are always ways to avoid the dangers, and it is a superb peak to conquer in winter.
We had had a few problems with Christine’s crampons coming off for the first couple of days. because of her old Koflachs being very worn at the front, her older ‘bail-type’ fitting would gradually slip off, causing everyone to utter thier displeasure. Today, even before we had reached the steeper top section of the gully, I was again cranking the crampon adjustments as far as I could, and it seemed to work.
There was very little build-up of snow so far, but the steeper chimmney exiting to the col did look a bit thick with snow, so with all the crampons working well, I led off to the left of the normal line, on icy ground interpersed with rock handholds. It was great climbing and the pair below me moved up together and enjoyed the climb.
We took a moment on the col for some hot drinks, then wandered along the track and eventually gained the summit. The wqeather had deteriorated by now and a strong wind meant this was no place to linger. Familiarity with the ridge leading back to the descent gully meant no problems in this poor weather and bad visibility to us, as the storm was now rain, and further on, a full blizzard. Because the storm was relatively recent, our tracks were obvious and we soon were back at the col.
To descend the steeper icy ground would have been more tricky so I opted to send Steve down the normal chimmney line, and had him create as much clearence as he could, while belayed securely by me. His efforts cleared almost all the snow that would likely slip off, and soon, Christine and I were following Steve down to the safer ground. A worthwhile tactic that Was very much safer and definitely quicker. Out of the wind now,we all felt more comfortable, and apart from some crampons coming off, the SMC hut was reached with little problem.
The storm had receded by now but the damage to the road was considerable. We slowly made our way down the ‘Coe until road conditions improved and we made our way back to our accommodation in the Bank Street Lodege,in the heart of Fort William, the now de-rigour of a meal in Nevis Sports bar ended a good day.

Day 5 - Chatting to a father and son couple (both called Dave) staying in the Lodge, we decided to join forces and ascend Stob Ban, a grand peak and part of the Devil’s Ridge, overlooking Glen Nevis. I say join forces because I knew the lads and my team had the same ideas for this peak, but I also  knew there would be few if any tracks to the summit,two or three kilometers of deep trail-breaking, which would need a team effort. And so it turned out. Following the river for a long way, the ground was deep in snow, and it proved exhausting. Fortunately, Dave Junior was our saviour. Young and strong, he made short work of the trail-breaking, but I did have to keep offering my turn every so often.
Two Scots caught us up before we reached the col, and we all had a rest from the hard work, while these two new trail-breakers took their turn. Reaching the col, we were all amazed at how long it had taken to reach here. There was,in my calculation, another two hours to the summit, so I proposed a tactical retreat at the next col along before the steeper climb to the summit.Just reaching this second col was not easy, as the snow was well over the knees. I was now certain we should turn back, or we would be descending in the dark later.The two Daves agreed and we rested with drinks, watching the two Scots as they continued slowly up the steeper section of the ridge. A few thoughts drifted into conversations, like ‘perhaps we could just do it’? Our decision to turn back was finally re-inforced when we saw the two Scots also bailing out.
The descent to the car was naturally easier and we ploughed down, cutting corners off our  hard-won upward trail. In just over two hours we finally reached the road and made plans for a rendesvous with Dave and Dave back at the Lodge.

My time with Steve and Caroline was over for now, but they assured me they’d learnt a lot, had a lot of fun, and looked forward to more ventures in the future.

I drove back to my home in Dores on Loch Ness with some anxiety. The road conditions were woresening by the hour, and I was to meet Julian and (another) Caroline tomorrow in Aviemore, for another two-day skills session.

Next morning at 07.30 I broke through the fresh snow in the driveway and onto a slightly better B862. Once on the Inverness ring road it was easier, but the radio was warning of poor driving conditions on the A9 down to Aviemore. Sure enough, at the Carrbridge turn-off it was blizzard conditions and entering Aviemore was quite something, a scene from a bad day in Lapland.
Fortunately, the Cairngorm company had for once kept the road open to the car park, so once again, we were able to trudge into Sneachda, no real tracks apart from some earlier keen guys, but their direction had drifted downwards towards the burn in their trail breaking. That meant, if we wanted to follow the footsteps in the track, we’d have a longer than normal trek in. I made a feeble effort to keep a higher line but soon gave up.
It was fun in the corrie, excellent for snow skills, and I knew if this snowwfall continued, things would get more serious for climbers, in gullies, in the next few days.
The snow slides were effective and great fun on the slopes under the Goat Track. We did however, firstly have to construct a slide, clearing the loose stuff off the harder neve underneath, before testing the team on their axe-breaking skills.
Belaying skills were also put to the test with a ‘falling’ climber having to ‘run’ down at some speed to put pressure on the belayer. Great fun though, and the desired effect was created. After some work on the ‘flat ice’ we called it a day and waded out down the burn track and back to the car.
Julian and Christine wanted badly to learn how to handle an alpine glacier, and of course, the crevassse rescue scenario. I had already offered to do some detailed instruction for the next and final day with me.
Matters weren’t going to go to plan though. In even worse weather, I just about made it to Aviemore, but failed to get up the road to the Youth Hostel where they were staying. I parked by the entrance to the now-closed ski road, and walked back along the road to the hostel.
There would be no chance at that moment to get up to the ski car park, so we retired to the lounge of the hostel and spent around three hours learning and practicing all the required details of crevasse movement and rescue. Knots, coiling around the shoulders, prussic loop attachment, required distances to be apart, 2:1 pulley systems, in various and different conditions, and eventually, using convenient sofa legs as belays, the real McCoy, pulling someone out of an imaginary hole (although it would be across the carpet at this time).
As there was little more I could show the team, I proposed we go and see what was happening with the road, and if open, go for a walk above the ski station and get some air and excercise.
Conditions had improved in the last half-hour or so and the road was open at last. We jossled for position with the frustrated skiers and parked up at the ski lodge. A pleasent walk was taken up the road to the middle station, although one couldn’t see much, except numerous snow-boarders plying their skills, and the slient whisttle of the Feniculkar as it cruised passed us.
Soon it was time to return to the car and a welcome coffee in the Cafe Blue ended an interesting weekend for me as well as the team.
All I had to do now was get back to Lock Ness in one piece. Conditions on the A9 were getting very poor. I just made it back and looked forward to a Christmas break with the family, and it turned out very good in the end.

On Boxing Day, after taking my daugther to Inverness and driving probably, no surely, a little too fast back into Dores, down the steeper section of the road, I lost control on the icy and snowed up road and skidded into a wall.
This would mean much reorganising for my course with Dave starting on the 28th.
My wife and I finaly decided she would drive me down to Aviemore on the evening of the 27th, and I would meet Dave who was driving up that day from down south. Although not too happy, My wife managed to get down to Aviemore, drop me off at the hostel and get back to Dores.
Dave had the car and we trudged into Sneachda ready this time for some routes. Aware of a considerable avalanche warning, I chose to climb the shorter, and reasonably safe Goat Track Gully. The initial slopes were deep in fresh snow but tracks through and up to the bottom of Red Gully meant we had a line to follow. Once in the steeper gully, the line weaved left then back right over some rocks, great fun. Reaching the first stance I brought Dave up to me. Hot on his heeels were two young climbers.
‘Is that your grandad?’ I learned the leader had said to Dave. A carefully aimed snowball showed him my annoyance, but really it was all in jest, and topping out onto the plateau we had a good chat.
Descending the Goat Track itself was not a problem and as we had time left, and we turned right as soon as we reached the foot of Goat Track Gully, into a very, very good looking Red Gully. I’ve done this route numerous times and often the first pitch can feel quite tricky, protection poor, and crampons scratching on rocky footholds. Today, after the build-up of ice, and the steepness shedding the fresh snow,it was terrific. Dave made short work following the long and steep first pitch, then in two long 60m pitches we were up.
We decided to go down via the Fiachiall of Corrie Casse and through the skiers, and looked forward to another good day tomorrow.
Late December was becoming something of a record snowfall, with many roads impassible and those that could be taken, had to be driven much more carefully than I had on Boxing Day. Many lorries were jack-knifing, causing road blocks for many hours. A very different December than in the last ten to fifteen years.
I stayed down with Dave at the hostel and next morning we went back up through deep snow to the Corrie. It was getting serious
now, so I waited until other teams had got started on routes before deciding The Runnel would be steep enough to be safe. Three guys soloed up the deeper snow and got established under the final section. Following their deep holes and trail I felt happier and soon we had caught them up on the final stance.
Here they were having a problem. Their young leader had gone over the cornice and had belayed too far back for communication. Much yelling, to no avail, and it was plainly gong to take a long time to unravel the scenario.
I suggested to the other two that, with Dave staying where he was, I’d climb the pitch and act as communicator. They didn’t object and I climbed the route in a short time, only the upper section going through the cornice had any real difficuly. The leader had gone a long way back, so I yelled at him to slack off (so the guys below could release their belays). As soon as he had done so, all continued normally, with my directing climbing calls etc. As soon as they had started, Dave also got going and enjoyed the ice climbing a great deal.
Not time for another climb so we returned to the Fiachaill again and down to the car.
Our pan was to go over to Fort William and do something on Ben Nevis or Annoch Mor, but the road over and past Loch Laggan was anything but sure of travel. So we returned to Inverness and drove down the A82 to be sure of getting there.
A mix-up with the Youth Hostel bookings meant the manager at Glen Nevis Youth Hostel had no booking for Dave, and the hostel was full!
Cold, damp and weary, Dave was getting irrattated.  The manager rang around and secured us a room in the Achintee Lodge, at the start of the Ben Nevis track.When we arrived there, all problems dissolved. Scot, the owner, made us really welcome and the facitilites more than surpassed the busy Youth Hostel.
A decision had been made that evening that there was a little too much danger to go to Ben Nevis, because the gullies would be loaded with snow, so early next morning we found ourselves at the Annoch Mor ski centre, intent on taking the climbers’ cable car at 07.30 and then the four-man chair, and going up to see what Annoch Mor was like. Plans were dashed when my pal Wee Davy, one of the centre staff, announced to the few parties who also had the same idea, that he was waiting for reports about the strong winds that would appear to have been blowing, before he would decide whether or not to open the gondola service.It was therefore pretty certain that the four-man chair wouldn’t now run that early and that meant a time-consuming walk to the summit plateau. It had past 8 O’clock and time was slipping away. I decided we should try the Ben Nevis track to the dam, and to walk up from the North face car park at this time would again be a slow process, leaving not much time for a route.
Dave’s £47,000 Audi A4 dealt with the lower sections but about halfway where it got steeper, even the four-wheel drive was having difficulty handling the deep snow. It was getting very dodgy and we might get stuck, so we agreed to turn the car around and go down. Easier said than done, but at a wider section of tthe road, we just got the car arround. Then our troubles strated. With full four-wheel drive, and at one mph (honestly it was no faster) we crawled and slid down the track, a track which had seemed so inocuous on the way up. Several times the car slid sideways but Dave just managed to keep the car from dropping into the gully at the side. It was frightening stuff and Dave did comment later that it was the most serious driving he had ever done. I think he was thinking financialy as well as off-road driving skills.
With great relief we arrived at the ski station and with all our time lost now, we drove into Fort William where Dave announced, with the weather being so bad, he’d make his way down south early to avoid any problems driving later on.
I caught the 12.30 bus to Inverness and by half past three was back at home.
A call from a concerned neighbour about an avalanche on Ben Nevis and one over on the west coast that morning had me later, scouring the internet for reports.

The devastating news was much worse than I could ever imagine. Chris Astill was the one on Liatach. Of the three avalanche victims on that morning of December 30th 2009, the news that Chris was one of them, slowly entered my brain, cutting like a chainsaw through my feelings.

Since Jimmy Jewel had died so many years ago now, I had promised myself I would not allow myself to get hurt again. Some hope!

Chris and his partner Jo had been in the Highlands, over on his favourite north-west coast, as usual over the Christmas period. He had even called me from Loch Carron to say ‘hello’ and to ask where he could get snow shoes from. He was obviously aware of the great depth of new snow that had recently come down and it was still falling.
I pointed to a local guide for the snowshoe advice and asked Chris and Jo to call in again, like last year, on their way back to Derbyshire.
It wouldn’t happen. Nearing the top of a approach gully to the main ridge on Lliatach, the avalanche took him down some considerable way. His climbing pal Ollie, descended the easy gully and got to him. Although Chris was talking, things were serious and the helicopter rescue was probably minutes, hours too late, who knows, as he died later that night in Inverness hospital.

I was, and still am, devastated.

“Eyeeup Kid, ow’s it goin’ youth?” The standard Nottingham welcome which was always truly meant with real friendship. Chris was that kind of guy, one of the nicest blokes I’ve known for nearly forty years. Intellectually always very smart, a neat and determined man and without question a great all-round climber. To me he had no faults, except maybe even for me, a touch too keen, ready for any escapade, a Scottish winter adventure, that wet rock climb, our South American odyssey to Aconcagua with my clients, Bill, David and Sandra (I must tell them!), an Alpine adventure in Chamonix or even a Himalayan sojourn. He was the true all-rounder. And one of my best climbing friends.

I first met him when I was a 19 or 20 year old, when we were both coming through the ranks, grabbing those elite north faces, I would bump into him everywhere. In the UK, mostly in Llanberis but often in Stoney cafe. In the Alps, on the Bioley, then Snells Field, and latterly, Pierre D’Ortaz, legendary campsites used by the best alpinists of the times, as mere breaks between great climbs. We became good friends.
Sadly, as I grew older and slowed down, with my last fourteen years being spent up north, and with that golden era of British alpinism long gone, it would be a less regular meeting, with those famous words ringing out across the Llanberis high street, or in Pete’s Eats, or as I would unload the sacks at Ynys for the weekend. I was grateful for the Climbers’ Club. It would keep us more in contact over the last few years, as we had both secured positions on the committee, and for Chris, the custodianship of The Downes Hut. So I looked forward to the quarterly apointments, and especially the Froggat meetings more than most.

December 12th 2009 was one such event. I would fly down to Manchester to avoid the 8-hour drive. It was also much cheaper with Flybe than to use my car. Chris assured me it was no problem and he would be waiting at the arrivals for me, as he was intent on whisking me to Tideswell and the local pub, to join the boys. I wasn’t sure who would be there, but I was pretty certain the gang, Hughie, Howie, Ron and Pam, and of course, Jo, his beautiful lady as always by his side, they would all be there.
I couldn’t wait.
The plan was thwarted by heavy snow in the Highlands. Twice I tried to fly on the Friday but on both occasions the runway was out of action, and the dense fog didn’t help. Eventually on Saturday morning I had to drive, or I would miss my final Climbers’ Club committee meeting as President. It was a daunting task in that weather but at least I was moving at last.
It was dark by the time my Sat Nav had got me to within shouting distance of Chris and Jo’s lovely house in their neat little village. Chris stood proudly outside his house, and directed me to a parking spot alongside his brand new garage. He had restricted his free time for quite a while to build it, and a super building it had turned out to be.
“I’ve only got the loft insulation to put in and that’s that”, he announced proudly. So sad to know he wouldn’t see the finishing line.
I spent a great weekend with Chris, Jo, and Rachel, one of his two daughters from his first marriage; she had turned up from University to spend Christmas with them.
On the Sunday, Chris and I had a special day together on Kinder Scout. It would be my first visit to this wild place, and not only would we ascend to the bleak plateau, we’d walk through the mire to the Downfall, which I really wanted see, and Chris announced we’d do a rock climb as well, on one of the high crags there. Ok, it would only be a Severe, but in that damp and gloomy atmosphere, you could argue about my keenness. Chris, however, was on fire, and I would not dowse him.

We had a great day, the Downfall was in full flow and I pondered the sight when it was frozen. Later, on the rock route I was watching carefully for sandbags. On a convenient ledge I craftily avoided finishing the top pitch with a “I’ll bring you up. It’s not clear where it goes from here?” He came up, took the rack of me, and proceeded to show me why I held him in such esteem, as he smoothly climbed the slimy, green groove, which I had been convinced wasn’t the normal way forward?

Recently we’d been doing some talking. Our future alpine plans together, given some breaks in my annual summer guiding programme, and Chris’s ability to break off his ‘pole counting’ for BT, were for the Freney, even the Innominata and the Pueterey Integral. How I could put back the clock now.

His new day job, recently acquired after a successful and rewarding career in the mining industry, always amused us all, but it secured the finances along with Jo’s outdoor centre instructor role, and he was happy strolling along the fells in many different locations in the country, and in all weathers.  I’m sure there was much more to it than counting poles, but I never got the chance to find out more. He told me he felt so alive.

I’ll do my best to remain strong, to give you courage, Jo, but it’s not easy.

Zermatt in Poor Weather

After two welcome rest days I made my way back to Zermatt to meet Mark, and looked topwards completintg our five- year wait to put to bed the Hornli Ridge However, arriving at the Bahnof, the peak was hidden in dark clouds and further conversations with the Bahnof manager gave me cause for concern. Lots of snow on the east face and doubtful weather for the next day. Mark had only three days booked with me, so conditions had to good (and soon). Unfortinately we woke to a very cloudy day, the peak not to be seen, and although the forecast was better for the next two days, I didn’t feel Mark had the experience to do the peak in anything other than perfect conditions, so I suggested returning to Argentiere and some much-needed rock climbing practice.

My first abseil

Arriving in Chamonix at mid-day, we went straight to the Guides’ Crag and had a successful training session on several of the easier routes.
 
Next morning we travelled to the Thermal Park at La Fayet near Sallanches and sampled the thin slab climbing there. The techniques for slab climbing were too much for Mark’s liking. My intentions had been to train for the easier, but much more demanding rock on the Matterhorn, so I still felt Mark had more to do before we eventually get to this peak, even in good weather.

Mark-striding the Aiguille Crochures ridge

Our final day together was not as successful as I’d have liked. I chose the traverse of the Aiguille Crochures and arriving at the point where one has to down-climb the easy, but steep, chimney there were several teams still waiting. A lengthy wait resulted, and our intention of also continuing to the summit of the Belvedere was now in doubt if we were to not have to rush back down this route to the Lac Blanc track and on to the Flegere station and cable car. With slopes of pure ice to traverse after the end of the Crochures Traverse, I did feel this was going to be awkward and slow, and Mark’s lack of rock climbing techniques could lead to a very slow ‘up and down’ climb and a possible (and disastrous) late finish so I steered Mark down to Lac Blanc. As it turned it, we did finish too early, but the decision had been made. I made a point to make it up to Mark on his next course with me.

Henri Bouillet 1958-2009

So the season ended on a not-so successful note but I packed the car, bought the wine, and made my way back home, accompanied by ‘Doris’.
Questions still remain about the reasons why Henri died - perhaps a needless accident or was there a misjudgement? However, nothing will bring this super chap back.

I’ll miss him terribly.

I’ll be back in the Alps next season and will avoid helicopters like the plague.
See you there?

Smiler - October 2009

The Blumlisalphorn

August 30^th & 31^st

Murray and I had just one more joint venture, the Blumlisalphorn from a hut a long way above Kandersteg. Iain, David and Rachel had booked their trip up this 3, 600 metre peak and, because of the technical nature another guide was needed, so Murray had offered as he was still in the area with me.

A lengthy walk-in

 The five-hour walk to the hut in the hot sun was trying, but we took our time and felt OK on reaching the Blumlisalp Hut, superbly situated high on a col above the vast valleys surrounding the Kandersteg peaks.

The ice slope to the col

Our target used to be a straightforward snow climb to a col and then a rocky ridge with virtually no technical climbing, and protected by steel stakes every so often up the steeper sections. However, the global warming had left the snow slope as bare ice and some quite obvious stonefall danger if one was there at the wrong time.

The rock ridge

So we left early for the route and the day proved interesting, not too difficult, and the summit a splendid place adorned with a majestic Swiss cross. We descended the rock ridge in our own separate teams, but joined together to go down the steep and icy lower slopes to the flat glacier.

Rachel and David on the summit

Either Murray or I would lower the other guide first, who would place the ice screw belays and then all the clients would be lowered down to the stance. Murray and I would take it in turns to climb down without the top-rope to rejoin the team. Using two ropes tied together, we were able to descend a long distance down the ice in this manner, but it always put a slight strain on the last guide.

The team at the Blumlisalp hut

However, the slope was not steep enough to worry Murray or me too much, and we were soon back on the glacier route back to the hut. With ample time available at the hut, we rested and rehydrated before taking the lengthy descent back to our delightful campsite, via a gondola ride saving a convenient hour (both ways) to the lake at Large, this a pretty spot, well frequented by trekkers.

The hamlet of Large

The Matterhorn with Mark is next. I’m hoping for much better weather than of late. Tell you about it when we’re back.

Smiler

Moving into the end of August in the Alps is always a slight gamble with the weather. Tim and I had planned, together with my good friend and colleague, Murray, and his client Neil, to traverse the Matterhorn, up the Lion Arête from Cervinia and down the Hornli Ridge. Tim and I spent a day on my now familiar Brevent-linked

The superb final wall of Cracoukass

 routes, all excellently climbed in mountain boots, not rock shoes. Our second acclimatising day was unfortunately brought to a standstill when poor weather hit us on the Guides’ crag. However, as we were off to Zermatt next day, we could prepare properly and be ready.

In deteriorating weather, we drove in my car to Tasch and having parked in the new car park, we took the train to Zermatt. At the Bahnof Hotel, we met Murray and discussed our doubts on the intended route. We did have a good weather forecast for the next two days but, after talking to the Zermatt guides’ office about the idea of the Italian Ridge, they steered me away from it. With Tim alongside, I had no explaining to do –too much snow to make a safe ascent at that time. Even the Hornli Ridge was being reserved by the Zermatt guides for clients they were happy with, not just anybody paying their fees (which can be quite normal). Tim had but one aim, the Traverse, and suggested if we did the Hornli, which was certainly possible to go for, he would probably never come back for his Italian Ridge, so he said ‘Let’s do

The superb Dufourspitz

 something else!’ We chose to climb the Dufourspitz from the Monte Rosa Hut, and I was happy to go for this peak because I could see for myself the location where Henri had fallen.

Murray and his client were happy to do the Hornli Ridge and indeed were successful, but our teams were now separate. Our day on Monte Rosa was superb and an exciting ridge proved the climax to a long snow approach. Tim and I got back to the hut around 1.30pm and, after a short break and a beer, we re-packed, changed socks and returned to the Gornergrat and Zermatt.

It’s the Matterhorn next. Talk to you later on this plan.

Smiler

I love Americans, especially one guy - Danny from Omaha. Folks say, ‘What’s it like there’ and the standard answer is…’Flat as a pancake!’

Danny has been coming over to climb with me for many years, and I always relish the

la Someone

 time together. He’s a true friend.

Times are changing though. The last trip over from Nebraska was four years ago and we grabbed the famous Cassin route on the Badile, even though he hadn’t done much rock climbing in preparation.

This year was the same, but perhaps Danny was not so well prepared. With great acclimatising rock climbs on the Brevent, this location was ideal for our first outing.  la Someone proved to be the top end of Danny’s capabilities on this, our first day, but I still sneaked the best (top) pitch of Crakoukass in, to stretch Danny and to finish a good, but strenuous day.

Next day, we agreed we were still unsure of high peak routes, and with the weather

Hotel California

 superb and dry, another test day (again on the Brevent) was on the cards. Taking the cable car, this time only to Plan Praz, Hotel California (5a) was our target. The climb sounded superb, and from a distance looked good but the route in the guidebook didn’t really match the various lines available. Traverses along steep paths to continue links between crags caused me problems and obvious lines were difficult to locate, so we pulled off onto descent tracks and made an early dart for the Office Bar.  I’ll go back and find the correct line next time.

We both knew Omaha was a long way to come, without achieving some of the bigger-style routes we’d done together on several previous trips. So if we were going higher, a good but not too serious warm up was needed. The Cosmiques Arête was perfect

A dry Cosmiques Arete

for this task. We had a great day, taking about 4½ hours, but it did prove very demanding for Danny, and he opted for a rest day afterwards. Cruising the shops in Chamonix, he bought presents for someone I have not yet met (although I’d do my best to get to Indonesia for the wedding!)

With three days still to go before flying back to the flatlands of Omaha, we realised big snow routes for Danny were very optimistic, so agreement was reached to continue the rock climbs in this great weather. The Brunat/Godfroy Perroux (5c) (I still need to lead that last pitch!) on the Aiguille du Index on one of the days, then back to the Brevent and the Aiguille Charleron for a

Eperon Droite-Aiguille Charleron

 route I had not climbed, called Eperon de droite (5b) – why, oh why had I not done this great route before? Our last day was spent on Ed Grindley’s superb route on the buttress to the right of the Aiguille du Index couloir,

Geodfrey Perroux route on the Index

called Modern Times (5a). It is printed as Modern Time in the recent new guidebook, although Ed assures me the name was misspelt by Piola, when writing the current guide. I looked up at thee lovely final pitch of Mani Puliti, and turned right on our easier pitch. Maybe next year, Danny?

Danny’s 2009 trip results were not what he or I had

Mani puliti

 expected, mostly rock climbing and no prestigious alpine routes. But Danny was philosophical as always, and made the best of his lack of training, and I believe he had another great trip.

I’m off to Switzerland again soon. Even new peaks for me! Looking forward to telling you about the trip. Speak soon.

Smiler

Client bookings for my 9-day Beginners course including the ascent of Mont Blanc proved sparse this year. The credit-crunch effect? Who knows? This year I welcomed Paul, whose friend Dan would join us later, and both of them had climbed in the Highland winter with me. Martine, a client of Henri’s was to join the course but she cancelled as she had no fire in her now Henri was gone. With it being too late to cancel Paul, we climbed as a 1:1, arguably a little less hectic than with the bigger groups. We did have a lot of fun though. Doing most of the set course routes and also

The real summit Gran Paradiso

doing the Gran Paradiso. Dan joined us for the Mont Blanc ascent and it was a splendid affair. We left the Nid d’Aigle station and reached the Gouter Hut at 1pm. The

Mont Blanc Paul and Dan

weather was splendid and a very good forecast so at 2pm, we carried on. We reached the summit at 6.30pm and were back in the hut by 9.30pm.

A great day and we were now able to turn over in our bunks when the crowds woke and then left for their summit at 3am.

The descent was superb at 7am, cold, clear and stonefall free. A better end to a period dominated by a bitter experience, lurking in the background throughout