Sixty-five years later, in February this year, a second assault took place. This time, led by wing Commander Smiler Cuthbertson and thirty plus members of the crack CC 2^nd Brigade attachment, the assault was on the extensive array of frozen waterfalls in the deep valley below the heavy water Plant, this now a fine museum. The party was assisted by the arrival of the 10^th Panzer division from Stuttgart East, led by Herr Peter Cuthbertson (aka as Smiler’s kid brother and his German climbing mates!).

Over a nine-day period, the CC meet members and the Germans proceeded to reduce the vertical ice to small chunks suitable for gin and tonics. It was a wonderful time. Access is so straightforward (and easy) into the Rjukan Gorge and the small cabins in the town, providing the accommodation, were cosy and comfortable . The nearby Pizza house provided (a little expensive) big pizzas and (very expensive) bottled beer!

Wing Commander Cuthbertson was also using his presence in Rjukan to do some guiding. Firstly with two pairs of CC members and friends, and then, when the dust(!) had settled and the first wave of troops had retreated to Oslo Torp for the return Ryan air flight to Prestwick, some having a more damaging time on the car journey back compared to the G & T affairs in the Rjukan Gorge, Pete and Chris arrived for ten more days on the ice with Smiler.

Many routes of all standards were climbed throughout the first 20 days of February, the weather and temperature holding cold (down to -15 deg at times) until near the end of the trip, and although it felt it was warming up, it appears that moving further north for a few hours resulted in much colder climate (a thought for next year?).

Talking of next year, some unfinished ‘destruction’ was noted and Wing Commander Cuthbertson (assisted by another squadron of CC members (and probably by the Panzer division as well) will be back next February (1^st – 9^th plus extensions) next year.

Contact Smiler if you would like to be involved in a 2009 assault, but please use Morse code as the home guard at Rjukan might get wind of our arrival (and book the accommodation out).

[Editors Note: In the interest of European harmony we should point out that Smiler isn’t fixated by the happenings of ‘39 - ‘45 and everyone from all nationalities got on extremely well. Future assaults will probably be made using the Eurofighter as air cover.]

Kjokkentrappa WI4 (Scottish 5), Variation on Ozzimosis - WI5 (Scottish 6), Vemorkbrufoss Vest - WI 5 (Scottish 6), Nye Vemorkfoss – WI5 (Scottish 6)

The plan was to spend a rest day at base camp and acclimatise. Tents were erected close to the mess tent and the organisation of equipment, food and fuel for the mountain was started. This work continued the following day, with diversions to the hotel, about 30 minutes away from the base camp, for hot coffee and cakes.

With the weather reports indicating poorer weather being expected later that week, it was decided to alter the original (and normal) plan to go first to Canada camp, where the team would be stashing food and fuel for the higher camps. Missing out Canada was a good process as it established a higher altitude reached sooner. But it meant a harder first day on the mountain, carrying gear and food to Nido de Condores, at 5500 metres. Returning un-laden to base camp, the team prepared their loads, ready to leave for Nido the following day. The weather was staying good and spirits were high. A good rest was the order of the afternoon.The approach to the summit of Aconcagua calls for a system of ‘siege’ tactic. Leave base camp and carry food and fuel to a higher camp, returning to sleep at base camp that same night. Then tents would be packed and all other equipment carried to the same high camp, where tents would be re-erected and preparations for the supplies drop to the next high camp, the following day, would be made.Reaching Nido at 5500 metres for our night’s stay, the altitude was showing its presence but the team were proving their fitness and ability to acclimatise. Loads for the next (and final) camp, Berlin, at 5900 metres, were made ready. Nido was a bleak place with virtually no snow for water bottles and cooking fuel in close vicinity of the campsite. This meant a longer trip across to distant fields of Penitentes (ice fin fields) to get supplies for cooking and water bottles. All chores were done happily though and the prospects of being on the summit in two or three days were enticing.From Nido to Berlin, the terrain is the same but the effort is harder. It was decided after dropping the loads at Berlin and returning to Nido, a rest day would be useful. So relaxing was the order of the day, helped out by some warm sunshine, but temperatures dropping rapidly one the sun had gone down.Moving up to and into Berlin camp, the summit was now only one day away. With the team going well, precise preparations for the longest and hardest day were made. Once again, the lack of good, clean snow/ice near the campsite meant a lengthy trek to get the fuel for the vital water.With the weather staying good, the team were keen to push to the summit as soon as possible, along with many other teams who were moving in the same timescale. The trek to the summit involved some strenuous walking along a steepening track, before moving along and past Windy Corner then across the face of the mountain to the Canaletta. This easy-angled and wide gully is better if coated with snow, as opposed to loose screes, where it is believed the term ‘three up, two down’ came from. The snow in the Canaletta proved advantageous, and with crampons donned, the effort was less, not fully removed, but certainly easier.Reaching the summit, the cameras came out and everyone was very pleased and excited to be there. The weather had stayed good all day and the summit gave superb views of distant (and equally huge) snow peaks in Chile (volcanoes) which were noted for another trip maybe? After almost an hour on top, the team descended, but not now as one group, at the same time, and not without some difficulty in route finding. What had appeared a simple navigation exercise (i.e. follow the path?) led some members to pull away from others, and follow different paths, and this led to some anxiety back at Berlin camp until all the team members were safely re-united in the tents.Next morning, the team packed all supplies and equipment, and now with heavy loads, made the long descent all the way to base camp.Happily ensconced in BC, spirits were understandably high now, although the fatigue was showing through. The service provided by Fernando Grajales at base camp was superb and well received, plenty of good food and drinks, especially hot tea or cold orange.All that remained was the walk out through the Horcones valley. As usual, this was done in one very long day, stopping at Confluenca briefly for food and drinks. Back at the park gate, after signing out and returning garbage receipts, the team were soon picked up by the agent and transported back to the hotel in Los Penitentes. Relaxing and by now in clean clothes, the urge to get back to Mendoza, for the civilisation, wine and steaks, was very apparent.The journey back from los Penitentes seemed quicker, and soon the delights of Mendoza were being examined. There was an extra day in town as a result of a great mountain itinerary performance and the wine and superb meals flowed. Even the packing and eventually, Mendoza airport seemed less trouble than normal.

It was a bleak and wet Heathrow that was returned to and the team separated with warm feeling, and looking forwards to the photos that would be sorted and distributed eventually to everyone. A very successful expedition was over.

The barren Horcones valley, Berlin Camp, Berlin camp before the summit push, Leaving for the summit, Chris and Sandra on the summit, Bill, Sandra and David on the summit, Returning to Berlin Camp after the summit , In the ‘real’ Los Penitentes.

27th – The weather was glorious for a change, and we drove down to Chamonix and up to the Brevent car park. The lift was working and full of walkers and tourists heading for the summit and the great walks the around the Brevent.

We shared to lift with Helen, a walking guide living in Switzerland. She warned us the path from the summit to Plan Praz could be closed. In the event the path obstruction was lower down and we were able to make our way to the foot of one of the many two or three pitch ridges that litter the side of the valley here. Our route had been created by local guides, utilising necessary bolt protection and thus creating great routes which otherwise would be virtually unprotectable. Called Les Samoniem, this went at French 4c/5a max. and in five pitches. Not so difficult for Danny and we had plenty of time to go for a second route called Crackacoa. This time leaving my rucksack hidden in some rocks, we dropped down even lower from the summit and located the start. Rob Wills had taken Amanda up this route a few days before and there was some interesting talk about the 6b pitch. I was fired up to get this pitch under my belt.The first few pitches were 4b and 4c so Danny had little trouble. However, the 6b pitch needed a string attitude from me but I was delighted to not need to pull on anything. An overhanging fingers layback with some awkward foot placements necessary. A good tick! Danny watched and didn’t fancy the pitch so, as the alternative was a lower grade (4c) I abed down and removed the quickdraws. Moving past an awkward move on the variation, I was soon belaying Danny around the corner. This awkward move proved still too tricky for Danny so he bypassed this and lowered down to the sloping hillside, and scrambled up to meet me as I abbed off the bolt. We continued in three pitches to the summit ridge and made our way to the cable car station. A very good start for Danny, about a dozen pitches. He was enjoying the rock climbing.

August 28th - The great weather of yesterday had vanished somewhere and a light rain was falling in Argentiere. It meant a mountain route was not on, so we made our way to the great rock climbing area of the Aravis and Columiere, over the cols of the same names. We were heading for the route called Voie de Dalles, on the Petite Bargy, a line of huge slabs one can see from the autoroute when coming up to Chamonix from Geneva.

It was quite a walk and I hadn’t expected it, but anyway we reached the cliffs and set out to find the start. I knew that the nine pitches weren’t too hard, 4cs and 5as, but we’d have to move fast to get off before the forecasted storm (including lightning), arrived in the late afternoon. Danny was up for the task and we made good progress on the route, the route finding not too simple. It was getting to the time when the weather was supposed to breask and sure enough, looking south to Geneva, I could see the rain clouds building up. I was concerned about lightning but there was only one Flash bang. It was close enough though. I’d just done about half of the eighth pitch when the squall I’d been watching hit us with a vengeance. Torrential rain soaked us and the crag for over ten minutes. I had just time to get back to Danny on the stance and we quickly sorted an abseil out. Seven abs later we were back at the sacks and fortunately, the storm had finished.Looking back at the slabs as me made our way down the track to the car, I vowed I’d return and tackle some more climbs on this impressive crag.

August 29th and 30th – The bad weather was back with us and both days were rained off. We spent time checking the Col de Columbia, Col des Aravis, looking for rock climbs that might be doable in this wet period. We were not too successful.

All the time, the high mountain routes were getting loaded with fresh avalanche snow.so there was little chance this season of Danny getting a big route in.

August 31st – In somewhat improving weather we drove again down towards Annecy and today were awarded some sunshine and dry rock. We had decided to climb the via ferrata above Thones, north of Annecy, as this would be the first time Danny would experience this wonderful activity. We had a great time, swinging around on steep, sometimes overhanging rock, all the time clipped safely to the metal rungs and wire safety rope.Towards the end of the afternoon, we made our way to Annecy and Bernards house. Bernard is my log time friend who runs a horticultural business, providing all the flowers for Annecy and district. He is always happy to so see me again and relishes the suggestions I make to climb rock together. My plan was to complete a dream I’ve had for several years, do a route on the massive cliff of Mont Aiguille, south of Grenoble. So we drove down, picked Bernard up and drove south to the Vercors. Danny had a couple of days left before his flight home and he was also keen for this big rock climb. We arrived late in the evening but with a Frenchman aiding communication and map–reading, the evening meal and accommodation, in the small but beautiful hotel near Mont Aiguille, and set in the deep forests of the Vercors region, was a wonderful experience.

September 1st – With Danny not as in form for the harder rock climbing expected on this nine pitch route called Voie des Gemeaux, I elected to have Bernard lead all the way and I would climb alongside and above Danny, giving him advice and assistance if required on the more tricky moves. This idea proved useful on a couple of tricky pitches, but overall, the route was brilliant, around Hard VS but not too hard for that grade. The summit plateau was quite warm compared to the lower climbing, as a cool wind apparently often blows around this majestic peak. We were soon abseiling (one quite amazingly free) and making our way down the long track to the car park. Driving back north to stay in Annecy with Bernard and Chantel, his lovely partner, I felt pleased we had been able to complete this adventure, and I will surely be back one day.

September 2nd – Danny was happy with what he had done this trip. No big mountain routes but some great rock climbing, and so his last day was to be a less active one. With Bernard and Chantel along with us, we drove back to
Chamonix and to les Praz, for a day on the slabs of the Grande Floria. Athena was our choice for a nice but steady and day the sun granted us a great day.

With his vacation over, Danny left for Omaha and I drove back through France to the ferry at Zeebrugge. I stopped overnight in San Quentin, in a wonderful two star hotel and knew I would be back there some time.

Another season over, this time with no incidents and some great climbing. I’m already taking bookings for next season and am looking forward to more adventures with clients.

7th - With the shortened style of the Mt Blanc Express course, there could be no time for the great short routes of the Aiguilles, and we made the necessary trek up to the Albert Premier Hut, spending the afternoon practicing on the glacier below the building. Everyone was enjoying the new experience and sliding with a little unexpected help from me, into a deep crevasse, was a unique experience to everyone. Getting promptly and effortlessly pulled out again was a thrilling climax to the drama. Back at the refuge, tales of dark surroundings abounded until the conversation at meal time drowned even our exuberant voices. A great day.

8th - In very good weather, the ascent of the Aiguille du Tour proved straightforward, with good snow conditions.

10th - A dilemma over climbing Mont Blanc had occurred but Henri had been kind enough to offer David and Peter a lifeline to

2^nd July.
The ascent of the Strahlhorn was thwarted for today; bad weather arrived so we did crevasse rescue techniques in the hut and waited for the following days expected improvement.

3^rd July.
A perfect days climbing to a 4000 metre summit. Clear and not too cold, the day proved superb and the summit a delight. The long descent proved a tad tedious and we were all glad to return to the cold beers of the Britannia Hut. Soon we were returning via the track to Felskin and down to Sass Fee where, my car loaded, we sped down to Sass Grund for our nights accommodation in the Hotel Heino.

4^th July.
After a good night’s sleep in the Hotel at Sass Grund, I thought we’d be off again today. The plan was to walk up to the Almageller Hut (at 2894 metres) and traverse the Weissmies down to the Weissmies Hut. Chris and Anne didn’t fancy a long hike with yet another big day after that, so we had a much appreciated rest day. There was plenty to do in Sass Grund and with e-mails and preparations sorted for the next trip; we relaxed for the first time this week.

5^th July.
With a worrying weather forecast for this afternoon and tomorrow, this the teams last day, we took the Hohsass cable car up to this brand new and extensive hut. Not so much a hut now, more a small hotel. Even showers were available.

6^th July.
There were probably only a couple of parties at most in front of us, as we climbed steadily under and past some worrying seracs. At the early hour, one expects no trouble, but I was pleased to get onto the ridge leading to the summit. The wind was picking up and soon we were in a wind-blown white-out, following the trail of the teams in front. We were going well, no one had returned from the summit so we weren’t too far behind the leading parties. Events took an unexpected turn when Anne announced she couldn’t see.

What had happened was the wind had constantly blown snow into her face and under her sun glasses. Her right eye was pretty iced up and like a good husband, Chris took my advice and did some heavy breathing into Annes eye. It did the trick and soon she was seeing clearly again. I took the opportunity to suggest we should turn back. Nothing could be seen through the mist and it was getting very cold. Anne was OK for going back and Chris, although he would have gone on, decided it was to be a family decision.

We turned for home and pretty soon met up with the trailing teams. A word or two about the conditions and we left the other teams to make their own minds up.

It wasn’t long before EVERYONE was following us down. Good decision I say.

Back at the hut we were warming up with hot drinks and then taking the cable car, we descended to Sass Grund.

Although not quite as productive a course as has been laid out, Chris and Anne left me in Sass Fee quite happy and thankful for the climbing we had achieved. With my working week over, I returned to Argentiere to prepare for a very unusual occasion for me in all my years in the Alps – I was flying back for a weekend.

7^th and 8^th July.
I have long thought a break in my guiding in the Alps would be good. Now I was getting an official break. As the new President of the Climbers Club (since March 07) I have taken on a leadership of a club which was having certain problems, with guidebook, huts, meets and membership all needing a boost of effort. I had put a good committee in place and we were working towards some improvements in the running of the club. The 8^th had been down as a committee meeting in Derbyshire and of course I expected my VPs to run the meeting in my absence.

A meeting without a President is like a pub with no beer. The quote came to me earlier that week so I made some quick arrangements and flew back to chair the meeting. Was it worth the effort? The committee thinks so, and we’re moving forward to reach all our targets. The Climbers Club is a great club to be in, lots of good friends and great places to go with them whenever we can.

9^th July.
Flying back from Liverpool on the Sunday morning, I was fortunate to meet up with my good friend and client, Ian, who with Bill, would be spending the next week with me in the Alps.

To describe the weather as bad that Sunday evening would be an understatement. Sheets of rain prevented anyone from stepping more than a metre from the Office bar doors. It was a dilemma. The forecast was for terrible weather until Thursday morning. What could I do for the boys? I know. Lets go to Finale!

Situated just south of Genoa in Italy, Finale is arguably one of the prime rock climbing areas in Europe. The mountain limestone is so rough, the routes are bolted, single or two pitches maximum, the access is relatively easy (motorway all the way from Aosta to Finale) and the weather is virtually guaranteed. Today we packed and sped off for a week in the sun, and were glad to see the change as soon as we exited the Mont Blanc tunnel. Three and a half hours later, we were checking in to the Youth Hostel in Finale, a superb castle style building with very friendly people running the place.

We even had time to do a good route on a cliff, in the late afternoon.

10^th to 12^th July.
What can I say? Three days followed of rock climbing at its best. Bolted protection, superb friction, steep climbing, just a dream. With the early evenings always spent drinking a cool beer in the little courtyard of Finale Borgo after finishing a route and the climbing day, before returning to Finale Lagura to eat pasta and drink wine or beer. This was heaven and the boys loved it too.

13^th July.
Our last day at Finale, because with expected good weather returning to the Alps, we felt we should return and at least get one mountain route done. We spent the morning on the sea-cliffs just outside Finale Lagura, no shirts, sun crème bolts and chalk. What a combination. We will all return here, for sure.

Then I was back in the driving seat again, moving smoothly across western Italy and through the tunnel back to Argentiere. Arriving back at our respective accommodation, we establised it had indeed cleared up at last.

14^th July.
Bill only had half a day left before his flight, so with his agreement we reluctantly said goodbye, and Ian and I took the Midi cable car and went to settle some unfinished business.

The previous summer, Ian and I had been to the Pointe Lachenal on the Vallee Blanche. Wed looked at the complete traverse but it had seemed too tricky and steep with our walking axes and no real technical gear. So wed topped out on both peaks by taking a low line with little trouble. Now armed with a technical axe and some runners, we made short work of this great little route. I would be back several times later this season.

15^th to 20^th July.
No rest day but Richard was game for a rock climb in the Aiguille Rouge for his first climb. The Chappelle de la Gliere was followed by more days on great routes – The Papillion Arête on the Peigne, a poor weather day spent at Vallorcine slabs, The Chere Couloir on the Triangle du Tacul (a super and steep ice climb), and, with two days left, we planned a big one – the Forbes Arete on the Chardonnet. Moving up on the 19^th to the Albert Premier Hut, we were warned of deep snow, no tracks, and what looked like a late afternoon storm coming in? We would have to hurry. Dawn on the 20^th found us labouring through the snow towards the Chardonnet. I suggested we were moving a little slow (even I was finding the going tough!)

We decided we might get caught in the afternoon storm if we continued so we agreed to back off, and instead topped out on the Tete Blanche and the Petite Forche, both at 3500 metres proving a great consolation.

Richard went away as happy as he was usually and I look forward to more adventures with him.

21^st & 22^nd July.
Down in my diary as TWO rest days, Saturday was spent washing clothes, sorting admin out and having a beer with the team in the Office. It was in there that I met Bernard and Konica, who were looking for a guide for the Crochures Traverse the next day. How could I refuse? Sunday dawned fine and the resultant day out was splendid with my new found clients. I do hope we can get together in Scotland next winter?

23^rd to 28th July.
David was back, minus this year our good friend Mac. David was intent on sorting out the Strahlhorn, unfinished business from last year.

We made good progress with David on more technical ground than he would usually agree to, the Petite Verte was in superb snowy condition. Just wanting one day to get going on in Argentiere, we sped off next morning to Sass Fee and up to the Britannia Hut. Next morning we made rapid progress to the summit of the Strahlhorn, unfinished business completed.

We dropped back down into Sass Fee and drove to Randa, making plans for Davids final two days.

In superb weather on the 27^th and 28^th, we made the long trek up to the Dom Hut, and topped out on this great beast, the highest peak entirely in Switzerland, at 4545 metres (the other contender, the Dufourspitze (at 4634 metres) straddles the border with Italy.

Tired but satisfied, we made the lengthy descent down (including a Via Ferrata) to Randa and were soon on the way back to Argentiere and some relaxing in the Office!

29^th July
A much needed rest day and I made good use of the plan by having complete rest.

16^th June. Saturday.
Departed for Rosyth and the overnight ferry .

17^th June.
Arrived in Zeebrugge at 11am and was on the road south to the Alps in an hour. It was the usual lengthy drive down through Belgium until I connected with the autoroute at Arras, and headed towards Dijon and the Alps.

Poor weather (driving rain) slowed me and it was well into the early hours of Monday morning before I unloaded the car in the rain that had been constant since Dijon.

18^th June.
A reasonable nights sleep and I unpacked and sorted the gear into their respective corners of the small apartment. A few phone calls, a quick glass of beer and the preparations were well underway to receive Pete on the Wednesday night.

19th June.
My second spare day before courses started. I was able to make some calls and plans and socialise with John from the Rusticana, and Dave, the Kiwi who has bought the Office – Crystal and Jamie had apparently had enough and had fled to Chile.

20^th June.
My first client Pete had been out for a while and was raring to go. I had a small problem in that I was booked to go to the Alpine Club 150 years celebrations on the 22^nd and 23^rd , but he was happy to warm up on the Crochures Traverse, today much more interesting yet not too tricky, in crampons amid lots of early June snow. The initial groove was the hardest but the rest of the ridge was a sheer delight, Scottish 1 to 2.

21^st June.
Day off. Pete had arranged for me to re-join him on the Monday morning after the AC celebrations.

22^nd and 23^rd June.
Zermatt celebrations for 150 years of the Alpine Club and the connections with this famous historical mountain resort. Apart from representing the Climbers’ Club as their President, I had volunteered to escort Frau (Paula) Biner from the Bahnof Hotel to the two events, the first being the reception outside the Zermaterof Hotel by the church. Speeches by dignitaries such as Walter Bonatti, Kurt Diemberger, our own Steven Venables (President of the AC), and several other notably famous climbers and Zermatt dignitaries, followed by George Band presenting all these important people, including a surprised and bewildered (at 90 years) Frau Biner, his recently published book titled Summit (commemorating the 150 years of the AC, led to everyone retiring to the Grand Hotel where food and drink had been laid on. Even at such a grand age, Paula stayed longer than expected and seemed thoroughly impressed buy the whole affair. Unfortunately, being unsteady at 90 years, she felt unable to return the following evening to catch, as over 300 Alpine Club members and celebrities did, the Gornergrat Railway to the Rotboden Station. In miraculously perfect evening sunshine, with the Matterhorn glowing in a mantle of fresh snow, we all were entertained with more speeches before settling down to a fine evening of food and drinks. Because of Frau Biner’s expected presence, I was lucky enough to be seated on the top table, opposite my great friend Steve Venables, and next to Frank Uri Muller, the President of the Swiss Alpine Club, and opposite Walter Bonatti and his good lady Rosanna. A wonderful night of food, drinks and fun ended with the Gornergrat railway eventually escorted everyone back to Zermatt, where many of the club members and special guests managed to get into one or two of the local bars and continued the fun until late into the night, the local police being very understanding and needing only to coax some members off the street and back inside the bars.

A truly great event and one not to be forgotten.

24^th June.
Having said farewell to Paula and my Alpine Club friends, after a little soloing on the Via Ferrata at Thrift, I made my way back to Argentiere ands awaited Pete for the next climb.

25^th June.
Some unfinished business was planned for Ian later in July, so I took the opportunity of testing the water on the Traverse of the Pointe Lachanel near the Triangle du Tacul. This proved a great little climb and well worthy of many repeats I feel. Steep snow climbing leads to the ridge and left hand summit, then a traverse to a gap in the ridge, where an abseil of 25 metres put us in the col between the two summits. Moving across to the steep wall, the straightforward rocks and grooves covered in snow meant no real difficulty was encountered, and we summited on the right hand summit as early as 11am. A super little route. Not wishing to flog our way up the Midi Arete, we chose to repeat the Cosmiques Arête in fine style and crampons all the way.

26^th to 28^th June.
Pete had still not been to the Albert Premier Hut or done the Aiguille du Tour. As an essential training route for many early alpine climbers I do suggest this route to many of my clients. With the snow firm and deep, Pete had little trouble and we were soon winging our way back to Argentiere and planning a final bash for his last day.

29^th June.
In perfect snowy conditions, Pete and I cruised the Petite Verte in fine style. A really great end to Pete’s short time with me in Chamonix.

With next February’s Norway ice trip (Rjukan) looming, Pete was quick to book a place on this sought after meet.

30^th June.
A rest day.

As we didn’t have a blogging facility over the summer Smiler has written a diary and I’ll publish that in monthly sections, things will return to normal after the Alpine posts this year. (Hopefully!)
I hope you enjoy reading Smilers blog.

Ian and I therefore decided to get a rock climb in, on the Aiguille Rouge. Ian had done the Index and Chappelle, so Athena provided a nice start to Ians eight days with me.
The route went fine, and we planned to come down early so that we could check the forecast and if possible, get up to a high hut the next day. Unfortunately, not only was the forecast poor, it rained heavily that evening and was still bad next morning. We salvaged an afternoon at the Guides Crag, watching (and dodging) the rail showers from under the trees at the crag. The snowline was down to 2000metres.

Having been poor weather all night, the morning was much brighter, but the damage had been done. Lots of snow had fallen high up, but the forecast was not too bad, so we took a midday cable car to the Midi, hoping to go all the way across to the Torino Hut. The Tour Ronde by the normal route and the Rochefort Ridge was our two-day plan.
Arriving at the bottom station, we were dismayed to find the Helbroner lift to the Torino Hut was shut (due to icing on the cables).

This was a bit of a blow, but being only midday, I reasoned we had plenty of time to walk across, and it would do Ian a power of good. When we reached the Midi summit, the route across the Vallee Blanche was simply not there! There was a great deal of fresh snow and no tracks. At first, even as far as the Gros Rognon, the wind swept snow provided a relatively easy walk. We were heading into dark, misty ground towards the Tour Ronde, but I could see a track starting under the Pyramid du Tacul, and that would ease the slog. Arriving at the first tracks, I thought that someone from the Torino Hut must have walked in snowshoes as far as this point, before turning back?

Following the better track now, we headed into the thicker clag. Soon we were groping for visibility, although I could just make out the old track so it was fairly easy to follow.
I was having some sinister thoughts for several minutes, and decided to just have a quick check of the compass, so we stopped on a fairly sharp snow arête for a drink and the check. I’d been through this complicated crevassed area once before this season in good visibility so I knew it was not simply straightforward ground.

Horrors, the track was leading us into Cwm Maudit! Someone, using snowshoes must have been heading to the Col de la Forche Hut, or a route on the Frontier Ridge?
This was not good. The crevassed area was very contorted and even my GPS would have required many, many defining points needed to be taken. It was now four-thirty and it didn’t take me long to decide things were not good. We would be in amongst the crevasses for a good while, the thick clag developing more as the minutes wore on, and there was even the possibility of a benightment, which was not on the agenda!

I turned Ian around. We would take a further two hours to retrace our tracks and return to the Cosmiques Hut where, after being gently scolded by Arnou (the guardian) for not telephoning, we settled down in the sparsely filled hut to a free beer, and awaited the usual splendid evening meal. Arnou had reason to be pleased to see us, as several of his occupants were intending to cross to the Tour Ronde the next morning, and he had already suggested their plan could be risky. I was able to tell him he had been right to warn them off.

Next morning, cold but much clearer, Ian and I crossed the Vallee Blanche, over to the Pointe Lachenal. I recall doing this small peak, years before and it would be a good consolation climb. As it turned out, it was superb. I intended to top out on the right hand summit and traverse over to the left hand peak. This would require us descending a steep face, which appeared to be a few hundred feet high. Reaching the top of the peak was great fun, but I decided, on reaching the top of the descent, maybe it was better to return the same way and approach the left and peak from the Gros Rognan side. The slopes leading to the ridge were steep, icy, and it was not easy ground. From the summit of the left hand peak, the route followed the ridge and then descended a short way before tackling the steep ground I had been reluctant to abseil down. At this point, three climbers (looking very much like local guides) overtook us, complete with two technical tools each, cams, nuts and double ropes. I watched them drop down into the col and they were soon belayed and pitching up the steeper ground. We were simply not equipped for this complete traverse, and reluctantly, I turned Ian around and we descended our ascent route back to the Vallee Blanche.

The long slog back to the Midi summit was, as usual, quite tiring, but it did give Ian some acclimatisation and fitness training for things to come!
The weather was not being too kind at the moment, but forecasts of better weather in a couple of days had me planning a big route for Ian. Over the Domes du Miage from the Conscrits Hut and on to the Durier Hut. Then along the Bionassay Ridge and over Mont Blanc to the Midi, a fourteen to sixteen hour day from the Durier Hut I myself had wanted to do for a long time. The forecast seemed ideal “the return of Beau Temps for the final three days of the summer”.
The approach to the Conscrits Hut, from the Tre la Tete Hotel above Le Contamine, is long and I recalled the last time I went there, a few years prior (but didn’t mention it to Ian!). A good but lengthy trail leads through the forest to the Hotel, and then a contorted glacier, covered in moraine rubble leads to a steep but reasonable track up the grassy hillside to the hut.

We took just under the five hours the guidebook says it needs to reach the hut. A few other guides and clients were there, they all were intending to follow the normal route along the Tre la Tete glacier to the Col du Dome and, after reaching the ridge, traverse back along our ascent route along the Miage Ridge and over the Aiguille de la Beѓangère, then down to the hut.

Leaving the hut at 4am, we made good progress, in thick clag to the summit of the Beѓangère. This weather wasn’t forecast to last very long so I pushed on. It was difficult to follow the easiest line, as there were some tracks, but only on occasions, and it would be easy to stray too far left on the steep slopes. Often, I clambered over the rocks on the actual ridge, knowing full well the easier ground lay to my left. All went fine though and, moving together all the way, we finally reached the first summit of the Domes Du Miage from the other (normal) direction. Here we made contact with the other guides and teams. The weather was very poor, visibility almost non existent, and a chat with the local guides seemed a good idea.

They were cautious about me continuing on to the Durier Hut, and voiced some concern about the snow conditions of the Bionassay Ridge. I had to decide carefully what to do next, because, when local guides voice disquiet about a route, we visiting guides would do well to heed their discomfort. Ian was in agreement for our descending the normal route and abandoning the big traverse. Another day, in better weather? I was still in two minds though, as the forecast was sure it would clear up and be great. But those ridge conditions?
I will never know now, as we finally decided “down was best”. We had had a great Domes du Miage traverse, and the valley was calling.

I had forgotten just how long and tedious it was to get back to the car park above Le Contamine. We ended up going fairly slowly down the final steep track through the woods, our fatigue showing through. Ian drove us back to Argentiere and we made plans to meet as usual in the Office for drinks and a meal, after we had rested and showered.

It was a surprise when Ian and I later discussed plans for the remaining couple of days’ activity. Ian announced that he had had a great time on the Miage traverse and anything now would be an anti climax. So he had already switched his flights and was due out next morning, back to a very busy dental practice and he felt good that he would be back in time to handle one of his more troublesome days of his week.

What could I say? It meant I was able to pull out of the Alps a day earlier than planned, and my drive back to the ferry at Zeebrugge was at a more comfortable pace than usual.
My alpine season was over for another year.
Having decided not to go to Tanzania for Jagged Globe, the original plan for two back to back trips up Kilimanjaro had somehow been changed to just one two week expedition, I would now be able to spend some time at the house, renovations going on, and there would be lots to do!

Appreciation was very high when, in turn, they hauled each other up a steep slope, simulating the rescue. Lee remarked, “Exactly what I wanted to see for real!”
Day 4 was a washout! I hadn’t seen bad weather like this for many a season.
Lee and Lorna were having a torrid time in their tent, the water was starting to seep through everywhere. So they called it a day and headed home a day early, hoping to catch some sunshine somewhere on the way. They are hoping to do some technical stuff with me next winter, and I look forward to that.

My one and only (planned) Mont Blanc course this season didn’t attract the numbers required to justify running it. Jim was keen but as he was the only member, I changed his course from a standard 9-day Mont Blanc course, to a 6-day private guiding course, with Mont Blanc as the last route.

Jim had never put a rope on, nor had touched rock, so it was wonderful to be able to start from the basics with Jim. He loved every minute, and through the 6 days, developed into a good rock climber. We even had a great day on the Cosmiques Arête, the route covered in the snow that had fallen when Lee and Lorna were baling their tent out! Together with the Midi climb, we managed the Petite Verte and some great climbing on the Guides crag, and successfully climbed Mont Blanc on day 6. I had a great time with Jim, and I look forward to seeing him in the Cairngorms next winter.