Mont Blanc again

Andy had been recommended by my good friend and client, Dan, to email me, for a possible extra course if I had a space. Sure enough, the space was there between 17th and 20th August. Clare passed me the details of the request and I took on the extra task to my programme.

Mont Blanc was Andy’s aim, and he would be arriving in Argentiere after doing the Haute Route with other clients and guides. Would I be able to slot him in on his arrival in town?
Why not, I thought, and booked him for a one-day climb from the Cosmiques Hut. This routenwould allow my maximum available rest days to be reduced only from four to two and a half, the access to the Cosmiques Hut only requiring a mid-day meeting at the cable car station.
A quick check Andy had all my recommended gear with him, and we were off up to the Midi.

The weather was very good, cool yet warm once one got going, so it was in limited clothing that we climbed down the arete and across to the Hut.

Andy was young, strong and by now, acclimatised after seven or eight days on the Haute Route so I was confident a one-day climb to the top of Western Europe was on. I haven’t gone this way very many times, and had mostly reached the top a little later than planned, and for safety’s sake, had usually gone down the Gouter route, where there is more ‘shelter’ from any of the three huts on the way – the Vallot Hut, The Gouter Hut and the Tete Rousse Hut, and even the new gite at the Nid d’Aigle can be used if it’s very late.

Andy had already learnt many of the technical skills he might have been lacking, on his trek across the Alps. I showed him how to put a ice screw in, ready for his descent from the Col Maudit later that day. A few other ‘tricks’ passsed over, we joined the many parties in the hut for a very nice evening meal. Then it was off to our beds around 8.30pm.

As usual,one doesn’t sleep much. Noisy people in the bedroom see to that. A wake up alarm for 12.50am is rarely needed.

After the 1am breakfast we found ourselves in advance of most of the other parties when kitting up. Around 1.45am and out on the snow we were very pleased to see only a few teams ahead of us.
The wind was sharp on the Col du Midi, but then it usually is, and as we gained height on the Mont Blanc du Tacul slope, we felt more comfortable in the clothing worn. After a few stops for drinks and adjustment of Gortex, gloves etc we found ourselves following just four parties, and I liked our position in the ‘queue’.

It was only around 03.30 when we reached the shoulder of the Tacul, we were moving smoothly and so we took a breather for five mins. It was sill quite dark but the weather was superb so no worries today.
Moving on down into Col Maaudit, the snow underfoot was superb, cold and crisp, supporting our weight as it should do at that time of the morning. We circled across and entered the many zig-zags leading up to the steeper finishing slope to the col. I had always assumed

most people had done some checking of what lay ahead, especially for the several distinctly more technical points of the ‘Three Peaks’ route, but in fact Andy hadn’t researched the route and so he wasn’t expecting such a technical and steep section. I mentioned he would have to down climb this on the way back, and soon after leaving him on a safe stance, I placed an ice screw in the cold, good ice between the base of the slope and where a fixed rope, always in place and knotted at several points, could be used for running belays. He would have a screw to place, at roughly the same position on the return journey. Adding karabiners to the in-situ loops higher up on the fixed rope, we moved comfortably together and popped out onto the col. Somehow it was still very early, only 04.50, and I was very pleased with our progress.
Changing into warmer gloves and taking a quick drink break, we continued on across the steep slope towards Col Brenva. The crevasse at the lower end of the track usually formed by the bergshcrund proved less problematic today, much easier to down climb and step across onto the lower level. Soon we were resting again below the Mur de la Cote, the rock

buttress we would have to climb up to from Col Brenva, and circle around before hitting the endless zig-zags to the final summit.At Col Brenva I usually look on the last 500 metres from the Col Brenva as the toughest section. What’s that film called? ‘No country for old men’? Quite an adequate title for this last part of the climb. But with three-quarters of my season completed, today all went smoothly, and rapidly, because at 06.15, we stood on the summit, together with groups of climbers we had come to know during our rest stops. All climbers become friends on the way to Mont Blanc.

It had been a rapid (for me) five hour ascent and I was very pleased, with Andy, and myself. Now all we had to do was go back! The few moments on the summit were spent taking photos, drinking water and stuffing food down us, then we were away. It was a great comparison to our ascent of this slope, dropping down to Col Brenva, and even the ascent to Col Maudit seemed easier than expected. The slot above the steep slope was soon reached and I top-roped Andy easily now down the snow steps, the ice we had climbed up earlier that morning was now very much easier soft material, yet my instructions and advice to Andy still had to be clear. He would climb down virtually the full length of my rope,placing runners in the fixed rope loops and placing the ice screw where I’d done so earlier.

It all went wrong when he couldn’t find any secure ice for the ice screw placement, so I shouted to him to continue down the steps and round the bulge of snow to the safer stance just before the traverse into Col Maudit. I’m not sure why but Andy didn’t follow the route and steps we’d taken on the way up, but strayed across to his left and suddenly was sliding down over the steep bulge. My belay stopped him just as he reached the safe stance, and although surprised, he wasn’t at all taken aback. Quickly he placed his axe, and called me down, and with a lovely lady climbing down right behind me, I took advantage of her and was able to leave a karabiner in two of the loops, and easily lower myself down the slope very quickly, the lady, grateful I was getting out of her way so smoothly and fast, kindly dropped my rope on these two occasions.

Now back with Andy, we set off along the diagonal track towards Col Maudit. From now on there would be no technical slopes, just a couple of open crevasses to cross and some steep down-climbing, before the Col Maudit.
We paused for a break here as it was getting very hot. Still with ample water left, we moved on up the slope towards the Tacul ridge and then on down the long slopes to the Col du Midi.

Our problems with the soft snow in the morning heat were virtually over now. All that remained was the steady-paced slog back up to the Midi, and the very welcome seats in the summit cafe, where lovely hot coffee was the order of the moment. Although weary, we both felt elated, as we had summitted in around five hours, and returned in almost the same time.

The weather had been very hot all morning, and by now we were more or less welded to the seats in the cafe. After our rest and drinks, we clamboured through the crowds and across the bridge between the two Midi Peaks. Without stopping, we by-passed the tourists heading for the cable car gate. Here, for some unknown reason, there was a problem with the cables?

Once on the cable car, we were immediately ushered off again, to be left waiting for around a half-hour before all resumed to normality and we were down in Chamonix once again.

I got the car and drove Andy to the Hotel Couronne in Argentiere, where Slyvie was happy to give my friend a room for one night. I left Andy to clean up and rest, making plans to meet up again in The Office for a meal and final drinks that evening. Andy would be off tomorrow to Geneva to see a pal of his.

We met up next morning for breakfast at the Office and spent a pleasant hour in lovely sunshine, reflecting on a great adventure. Then it was time for me to rest and look forward to a course for Victor, and Adventure Consultants, the New Zealand company made famous by the ‘Into Thin Air’ episode. Andy and I parted as good friends and we hoped to do more climbing together in the future.

 

The ‘Maximum Adventure’ team for my Mt Blanc (August 11th to 16th) course came as a party  from the famous Costa Coffee group. The variety of friends and workmates were staying at Simon’s place in Le Praz, the Hotel Eden.

I met up with Mike (owner and organiser of Maximum Adventure) and the team of Naomi, Dilgit, Nigel, Dave and James, at the Hotel on the morning of the first day of the course. For the first half of the course, Robert, a local, very friendly and very experienced French guide, would be with me and the five clients. Then Herbert, a very nice German guide would join us for the three-day Mont Blanc trip.  Rifling through the equipment box in the hotel’s storeroom, I was dismayed to see very little gear left to use? Mike fortunately appeared and told me of the several courses that he had on the go at this time, and I’d be off to the local sports shop in Le Praz to kit the group out. The weather was very good so we would be off as soon as all kit was fitted, to Le Tour for the hike up to the Albert Premier Hut.

My team weren’t seasoned climbers but many of them had done some good trekking peaks, almost all for their charities, in Britain, Ben Nevis and other UK peaks, and also abroad, where several had done Kilimanjaro and even one of my favorite trips, Jebel Toubkal in Morocco. They were, again for this week, on another charity mission from their respective branches of the company, with respective charities, and all were positive about reaching the summit of Mont Blanc.

The trek up to the refuge was uneventful, lots of chatting with great expectancy of the summit of Western Europe at the end of the week. I recognised Dave and Nigel as the faster of the group, and made plans to pair them with Robert. He’d slow them down a touch, with his lovely, experienced French guide’s pace. Naomi and her boss, Dilgit, would be together as a pair with Herbert, and James, self confessed as not being too fit, would be with myself. His supposedly lack of fitness was camouflaged  by a great and forceful attitude which bore him well on all the peaks. In fact they were as one, dedicated to reaching the summit of Mont Blanc. I hoped for them, the

weather would be kind to us?

As usual, we spent a couple of hours on the glacier below the hut, establishing good practices in crampon use and short roping  and returned to a still half-empty hut at 5.30pm. It soon filled up.

The weather was fairly good, so next morning at dawn saw us hiking up the familiar track to the Col Superior du Tour, and on up to the base of Aiguille du Tour.

The climb itself was uneventful, maybe Dave was a little

hesitant when passing the large overhang on the track above the col, but his brief concern soon passed and all the team gathered on the (rather crowded summit) for the slaps of the raised open palms, and the congratulations from everyone in the team for the first success.

Descending to the Trient Glacier, we made our way over this

vast plateau to the Trient Hut and settled in for the night. Tomorrow we would return via the Col Blanche and the Tete Blanche, before returning to Le Praz and Argentiere. We were quite early at the hut so we had plenty of rest. The usual Swiss excellence of huts and superb food was welcomed and the new wardens, made us very welcome.

At dawn next morning, we roped up for the crossing of the

plateau again, but this time, moving closer to the base of the Aiguille Dorees, passing quite near to the Fenetre de Saleina, before halting for a breather below the steeper Col Blanche.

The track up and over the steep headwall could have been avoided, but I didn’t spot the leftward track which completely

avoided any steep snow/ice climbing. The final steep slope was overcome by an awkward and fragile bergshrund of, soft snow which had to be carefully compacted to gain support, before the 50/55 degree finishing slope. Everyone loved the

technicality of the climb up to the col, and after reaching the col itself, the Tete Blanche summit was only minute away. Another palm-slapping moment and time to look at both the Swiss and French summits all around us.

As with many organised company courses for Mont Blanc, both the Tete Rousse and Gouter Huts had been booked, leaving the guides to confirm/cancel whichever place was needed or not.

Waking to the prospect of the Mont Blanc climb, he weather forecast had problems . It was forecast to be wet and stormy later in the afternoon, so Robert wisely suggested going quite early even though the Tete Rousse hut is only a couple of hours away from the terminus at the Nid d’Aigle. The early start didn’t pan out as well as it was intended. The Bellevue cable car deposited us at the cafe above the Nid d’Aigle train station just in time for the heavens to start opening. Disgorging from the train at Nid d’Aigle, we rushed to the shelter of the small building, quickly donning all our waterproofs to combat the now heavy rain. Not what we had planned!

Not only heavy rain, but quite a strong wind accompanied our very wet team to the refuge. We had at least done the trek in a good time (no-one understandably seemed keen to hang around).

Soon we were hanging our wet waterproofs on as many hooks as we could find, in the restaurant and bedrooms of this lovely hut.

With the weather as it was, we had some problems appearing. The intention was to leave the hut the following morning, early to avoid any stonefall danger in the Grande Couloir and get to the Gouter Hut, maybe even, if the weather was better, continuing to the summit, then returning to sleep at the Gouter Hut. The prize for crossing the couloir and reaching the higher refuge was that the summit was a mere five hours away, and with a reservation for the Gouter Hut in our hands, it would be the best final outcome to the course. However, with the Grande Couloir virtually dry of snow, this wet weather was making the stonefall quite high, and Robert, Herbert and I awoke at 4am to find the weather definitely worse. Strong winds and rain made it certain there would be no early start and with continuous visits to outside at regular half-hourly periods, we knew we were going to have to wait before any movement, maybe downwards might be necessary?

The long morning drew some agitation from the group. They were so close to their required success that it became quite difficult to appease them, so determined were they to get cracking. We three guides had of course the ultimate decision making, and for several hours in the morning, we watched, waited, debated and agonized over the danger the rainfall was causing with the couloir.

Around 2.30pm we had a break in the weather, it had finally stopped raining. Robert went up and talked to the lady from Petzl who was monitoring the stonefall in the couloir. This monitoring was intended to enable Petzl to offer to build a bridge over the dangerous part of the Grande Couloir. A bridge? It seemed a tunnel was the most practical, but this option had met with considerable opposition from conservationists and also some climber. The latter opposition amazed and irritated me, so many stonefall accidents were occurring with the high capacity of mountaineers crossing the couloir, or were they simply Mont Blanc wannabees with little experience or common sense. But they still come in their hordes every possible day. Depressing though it is, everyone has the right to climb the highest peak in Western Europe.

The better weather and the report from the Petzl lady of minimal stonefall prompted we three guides to enact a rapid preparation and departure for the Gouter Hut.

Spirits were immediately raised and with the three teams operating almost separately, I concentrated on getting James to the next hut in as safe a way as possible. This involved using the long 5mm diameter wire slung across the couloir, by attaching three or four meters of the end of my rope to the wire by a screwgate karabiner and dragging the karabiner across as we traversed. Neither of my two colleagues were intent on doing the same, they felt it was a slower and not so necessary operation. As we were pretty well together at the start of the crossing, I was determined not to be swayed by my colleagues, and sure enough, James and I moving rapidly across the couloir, there was certainly no time lost in using the wire as a safety precaution. At least my mind was happy, and I’m pretty sure James was as well.

Once over the danger zone, we made good progress up the ridge, James doing admirably and seemingly getting more confident of the following day’s trip to the summit.

The refuge was surprisingly empty ay 5.15 pm but numbers did swell by meal time. However, we were well placed now and an enjoyable feeling and good expectations were apparent in the team.

Preparations for the early start made, we all settled down to await the mealtime, then we made our way to Dormitory 1 for the hot and often noisy evening (or the usual four hours that is left in it). I wondered why Robert hadn’t booked we three guides in the much quieter ‘Guides’ room’ but there were plenty of guides at the hut so our special room may have already been filled? With only four hours before wake up and breakfast, there did not seem much point in any conversation about our bedroom location, and after an excellent evening meal, we all set about getting as much sleep as we could.

The 1am start was very promising. The weather was fine and cool. James and I were almost at the head of the usual queue leaving the hut around half-past one, and taking a steady but continuous pace, we even managed to comfortably pass a couple of teams. By the time we had reached the dark shapes of the leading group, I was slightly relieved to find it was

Robert, Nigel and Dave in the lead. There would be no more overtaking today. It soon became obvious that the winds and rains had done some damage to the almost always excellent tracks on Mont Blanc. Pretty soon, as we made a direct ascent over the Dome du Gouter, I realised there was no track, and Robert was trail-breaking. This excellent effort continued right up to the Bosses Ridge area, where James and I were overtaken by a couple of faster parties. I am unaware of whether Robert had made the trail all the way to

the summit? No matter, James and I were happy to plod our way up to the summit. We could only have been fifteen minutes or so behind the leading groups, and finally two thirds of thee Costa Coffee team were congratulating themselves on success. Herbert, Dill and Naomi were just a few minutes behind Robert’s team, and James and me, and we wished them well when passing them at the far end of the summit ridge.

James had done very, very well, and I too felt very

comfortable on the occasion. However, as the morning progressed, and the heat of the good weather came upon us, it soon became the usual drudge down from the summit, and with relief all round, we re-crossed the couloir without incident (but with a clipped wire on my part again) and reached the fenced-off area where they have discovered a serious ‘water bubble’ underground which threatens to burst one day and flood San Gervais? They are intending to bore relief holes and remove the vast amount of water lying underground.

At the vicinity of the Tete Rousse Hut, James and I decided that we’d had enough walking and wanted to get down as soon as possible. Dave and Nigel steered Robert to the hut for drinks, and we made our way down the dusty, uncomfortable track to the Nid d’Aigle where, luckily, a train was just arriving.

James and I at in the bar opposite the Bellevue cable car station, savoring a cold beer each. With possibly several hours to wait before Herbert and Robert would arrive with their teams, James agreed that we would be better driving off to Le Praz, me to Argentiere than waiting for the other teams. Mobile phones were used to pass the news of our safe arrival, but all phones were switched off, and it was around 6pm before I heard all parties were down safely.

James and I discussed getting together with the whole team that evening and James planned to call me with some timescales later on. I guess everyone was very tired because the calls didn’t happen. I sent a text to James suggesting a next day morning coffee and cakes at the Hotel Eden, which received some optimism, but even that didn’t happen, and I was fairly tired myself to worry too much about saying farewell to a great team. I’ll do it by e-mail when we contact each other and exchange photos.

I wish them all good luck with their charities.