Bregaglia/Bernina

A truly high quality alpine rock and ice tour in spectacular surroundings.

Sample itinerary:

We rendezvous at the campsite in Vicosoprano near San Moritz and check out the atmosphere of this Italian-style Swiss area, getting supplies and checking equipment. We then make the steady walk up to the Sciora Hut (2,118metres).

Our first foray is to climb Piz Gemeli via The Flatiron. We'll do the first superb ten-pitch section to where the climbing becomes loose and unpleasant and then abseil down the bolts to the 'sacks and back to the hut. Great mid-standard rock climbing!

Next day we head for the Piz Badile (3,308metres), the most famous of all the Bregaglia peaks. Traversing across and under the famous north face we drop down to the Sass Fura Hut (1,904metres).

After a night in the hut we climb the Piz Badile North Ridge which is arguably one of the best rock ridges in the Alps. From the summit we descend (south side) to the Gianetti Hut (2,534metres) and spend the night here. In the morning we will traverse to the frontier col, down to Vicosoprano and back the campsite.

When all campsite duties are complete we take a short car journey to Pontresina and take the cable car to the Diavolezza Hotel (2,973metres) with its dortior accommodation and we are perfectly placed for the ascents of the snow peaks to come.

From the hotel we climb up to the east peak of Piz Palu (3,882metres) and without losing any height we traverse the central peak (3,905metres) and on to the west peak (3,823metres). Continuing along the ridge we cross the four summits of the Bellavista (3,804metres, 3,888metres, 3,892metres and 3,922metres) and then descend to the Fuorcla Bellavista (glacier pass). The descent of the Fortezza North Ridge is followed by going down via the Boval Hut to Morteratsch and we're soon back in Pontresina.

Our final route of this wonderful odyssey is arguably the finest of our itinerary.

Piz Bernina (4,049metres) is the monarch of the Bernina Alps and the much sought-after Biancongrat ridge is one of the finest routes in all the Alps. The route takes the very fine snow arête to this majestic summit. Descending the normal route (the Spallgrat) we again emerge on the Fuorclaz Bellavista. After descending the Fortezza North Ridge we again go down via the Boval Hut to Morteratsch and Pontresina, where celebrations mark the culmination of a superb climbing trip!

This twelve-day/two-week tour would commence and end in Chamonix with the drive to and from Vicosoprano, and allows some time for bad weather, maybe some valley rock climbing (Mello is very nearby with wonderful bolted granite slab climbing), and maybe a rest day.