Bregaglia/Bernina

An alpine rock and ice tour in spectacular surroundings.

A sample itinerary:

We rendezvous at the campsite in Vicosoprano, near San Moritz and check out the atmosphere of this Italian-style Swiss area, getting supplies and checking equipment. When ready, we make the steady climb up to the Sciora Hut (2118m).

Our first foray is to climb Piz Gemeli via The Flatiron . We'll do the first superb ten-pitch section to where the climbing becomes loose and unpleasant, and then abseil down the bolts to the 'sacks and back to the hut. Great rock climbing!

Next day we head for the Piz Badile (3308m), this most famous of all the Bregaglia peaks. Traversing across and under the famous north face, we drop down to the Sass Fura Hut (1904m).

After a night in the hut we climb one of the best rock ridges in the Alps , the Piz Badile North Ridge. From the summit we descend (south side) to the Gianetti Hut (2534m) and spend the night here. In the morning, we will traverse to the frontier col, down to Vicosoprano and back the campsite.

When all campsite duties are complete, we take a short car journey to Pontresina, continuing on to the cable car station and up to the Diavolezza Hotel (2973m), a dortior accommodation, perfectly placed for the ascents of the snow peaks to come.

From the hotel we climb up to the east peak of Piz Palu (3882m) and, without losing any height, we traverse the central peak (3905m) and on to the west peak (3823m). Continuing along the ridge, we cross the four summits of the Bellavista (3804m, 3888m, 3892m and 3922m). Descending to the glacier pass, the Fuorcla Bellavista , we descend the Fortezza north ridge and then across the glacier back to the final short climb up to the Diavolezza Hotel. The cable car takes us back down to our transport and we're soon in Pontresina again.

Our final route of this wonderful odyssey is arguably the finest of our itinerary.

Piz Bernina (4049m) is the monarch of the Bernina Alps and the Biancongrat, a much sought after ridge, is one of the finest routes in the Alps . The route takes the very fine snow arête to this majestic summit. Descending the normal route (the Spallgrat), we again emerge on the Fuorclaz Bellavista . After descending the Fortezza north ridge we go down via the Boval Hut to Morteratsch and Pontresina, where celebrations mark a great time!

This 2-week tour allows some time for bad weather, some sightseeing, maybe some valley rock climbing (Mello is very nearby with wonderful bolted granite slab climbing), and a rest day or two.