Zermatt - The Grand Tour

Superb days traversing some of the finest peaks in the Alps!
Exhilarating!

We rendezvous in Zermatt at the World-famous Hotel Bahnof (an excellent dortoir) and after initial checks on weather, equipment, day food & drinks supplies, we take the Kliene Matterhorn cable car and prepare for our first peak - The Breithorn (4,634 metres).

Technically straightforward, it is a great climb, and a real boost to our acclimatisation. Our easy descent takes us onto the Italian side of the region, and from the Schwarztor Col we descend to the Valle d’ Ayas Hut where a warm welcome is always provided by the guardian.

In the early hours of the next morning, we re-ascend to the col on the frontier ridge, and climb to the summit of Castor (4,228 metres) via a beautiful snow arête. Continuing on down we reach the Quintino Sella Hut (3,858 metres).

The complete traverse of Liskamm (4,527 metres), is next. Returning to the frontier ridge, we then climb to the east peak summit of this majestic beast. The traverse to the west peak and down to the Lisjoch (4,153 metres ). The following short ascent to the Margherita Hut (the highest hut in the Alps at 4,554 metres) should only be undertaken by sufficiently capable clients and a lower, easier alternative is available to the same col. Situated virtually on the summit of the Signalkuppe, the hut commands magnificent views, especially in the evening, and arriving at the hut draws a superb day to a close.

After (hopefully) getting a good night’s sleep, ahead of us lies another stunning day. We traverse over the Zumsteinspitze (4,563 metres) and continue over the rocky Grenzgipfel (4,618 metres) to the summit of the Dufourspitz (4,634 metres). The new and straightforward fixed-rope descent down onto the Monte Rosa glacier removes the need to reverse the tricky (normal) summit ridge and soon we are walking down to the Monte Rosa Hut and a well-earned beer. We may need to overnight in the hut if time is against us.

All that remains is to cross the lower glacier and ascend the well-used track to Rotboden station on the Gornergrat railway. The train takes us down and back into Zermatt and celebrations.