Winter Climbing Courses & Private Guiding

Private Guiding

Winter climbing in Scotland looks set for another fine year. If you would like to tackle some of the classic (or not so classic!) winter routes give Smiler a call or drop him a mail, he may be a available at short notice. Options include...

Ben Nevis

The greatest of all winter ice climbing locations in the UK. The often poor weather and hostile environment only adds to the elation of success on the Ben. Many climbs are possible in all conditions, on the day the choice is yours.

Below are some of my favourite climbs. Usually the short days enable only one of the longer, great classic routes to be climbed, and, as the old adage says “if you don’t come back to the car in the dark, you haven’t had a good day!” All grades, from I to V are offered.

Tower Ridge (III/VI) - arguably the greatest ridge climb on the Ben, and one of the most famous winter routes in the UK. Long stretches of moving together on straightforward ground are interspersed with more technical sections. Superb scenery throughout.

Ledge Route (II) - the best route at this usually straightforward winter grade. A circular tour of Carn Dearg buttress with ramps and gullies, and an alpine finish.

The Curtain (IV) - two wonderful and steep ice sections provide a fantastic introduction to the steeper Ben Nevis routes. Ice climbing at its best. A second route in Corrie Na Ciste is always possible to round the day off or reach the summit.

No. 3 Gully Buttress (III) - at first glance, seemingly uninteresting compared to some of its obvious neighbours, this fantastic route winds its way through spectacular scenery with great ice climbing throughout, with a superb and exciting finish.

Green Gully (IV)  - the right-hand of the two classic gullies surrounding Comb Buttress. Superb and technical ice climbing leads to a choice of finishes, each one providing a great end to the route.

Comb Gully (IV) - this classic gully on the left-hand side of Comb Buttress gives a splendid climb with several technical pitches on steep ice.

Garyloo Gully (II/IV) - one of the most famous and great classic gullies, climbed in 1896. The climb is located high on the mountain where the conditions are always dependable, and the grade will depend on the build up of snow near the famous chockstone near the top. Whatever the conditions, a great route to the very summit of Britain.

Point Five Gully (V) - without comparison, the greatest winter route of the UK. Stunning ice climbing, steep and uncompromising, leads the climber in four big pitches to the easier finish, where you ‘whoop’ with delight at what you’ve climbed. Don’t expect a short day!

The Cairngorms

Due to it’s location on the north-east of the UK, the cold winds of the the Northern Corries guarantee good conditions no matter what the weather. Because of the short approach and relatively short climbs, two or more routes are possible in a day. Thus, one can be on classic routes, steep ice, on a mixed buttress, and in a quality snow gully, all in the same day.

My favourite ‘enchainments’ are shown below, but there are many variations possible, in Corrie an t-Sneachda and further across to Hells Lum and beyond.

For the not-so technical climber -

Ascend Aladdin’s Couloir (I) - a long but superb introduction to the climbs in the corrie. Then down the Goat Track (the easiest route from the plateau), and across to Central Gully (I), a little steeper but great fun.

For the more adventurous -

Starting with Spiral Gully (II) – great mixed climbing and a superb gully finish, we then descend the Goat Track and cross to The Runnel (II), this superb and well defined line giving four pitches of great climbing, with the technical crux near the top. If there is any daylight left, we have the opportunity of climbing Goat Track Gully (II), rounding the day off in the evening moonlight.

For the more established winter climber -

We warm up on the Mess of Pottage Buttress with Hidden Chimney (III) - with its technical but short pitches which lead to the fabulous and athletic chockstone pitch to finish. One of the best routes in Scotland. Cross the plateau and descend the Goat Track, this time turning into Red Gully (III), more technical than those climbed so far but a fabulous and intricate route. Across and down the Goat Track, and over to Invernookie (III-4), different in everyway to those done before, as technical and iced up rock lead in several pitches to the Fiacaill Ridge (I) which can be finished off to the plateau, or descended easily back to the car park, finishing off a great day

For the most adventurous -

Pick off some of the great, harder climbs in Corrie an t-Sneachda.
Choose from The Message (IV-6), Aladdin’s Mirror Direct (IV-4), Broken Fingers (IV 4), Fingers Ridge (IV-4) and many more.

Or travel further into the wild Cairngorms, to Hells Lum, where there are routes such as:

Deep Cut Chimney(IV-4), Kiwi Gully (IV-3), Auld Nick (III), The Screen (IV-4) and the superb, but easier Escalator (II).

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Intermediate Courses

For those with experience of our winter wonderland we run an advanced course. If you have mastered the skills set out in our basic course then this is for you. We include as much as we can in the time available to us and that conditions allow. Each course is structured toward personal development so each course will obviously be different, concentrating on individual's strengths and weaknesses. We keep each course to a maximum of three clients to ensure that each climber receives personal attention.

Typically, subjects covered could include:

A recap of the basic skills then...

• Navigation
• Choosing a route
• Climbing conditions
• Advanced ropework
• Ice bollards/belays
• Protecting a climb
• Abseiling
• Efficient use of ice tools
• Care and maintenance of equipment
• Choice of equipment
• Emergency procedures
• Self rescue

Other subjects may be covered at the client's request.

Our time together is utilised fully, no rest days are included and all subjects are based on practical demonstration followed by client participation. This is backed up in the evenings with informal discussion on the day's activities. Several climbs of increasing difficulty will be climbed during the course if conditions allow, indeed, we structure each course on 'going climbing' so you learn the skills in real conditions.

You will leave this course with the knowledge and confidence to climb some of our more demanding routes. Knowing that you have the skills in your armoury to deal with situations as they arise. Above all, it's a great time in the mountains.

Notes regarding accommodation can be found at the bottom of this page.

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Alpine Training - Scotland

Preparation for those who wish to travel further afield to the Alps or Greater Ranges

Courses for the novice and the more experienced, tailored to suit your needs. This course encompasses much of the basic and intermediate subjects outlined above. It is an intensive course covering the skills required to travel in alpine regions. This course is ideal for those heading for their first alpine season or those who wish to brush up on alpine techniques. It is particularly suited to anybody considering one of our Alpine Courses as it covers much ground and saves time in the Alps when the most important thing is to go climbing.

You will leave this course with a better understanding of the Alpine environment and the skills to deal with the problems and conditions found while travelling in alpine regions. Clients should note that this is not an Alpine Climbing Course. Alpine climbing skills can only be taught in a true alpine environment under genuine alpine conditions. If you have winter climbing experience in Britain then you have many of the technical skills required - the trick is to know which ones to employ and when. The Alpine Training course can offer help and advice in this area.

This course does offer a firm grounding for your alpine experience and sets you on your way to tackling some of the higher alpine peaks:- invaluable for the novice alpinist. For details of our alpine courses, with advice on which areas are most suitable, please see our Alpine Climbing page.

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Accommodation

All courses are based in The Northern Cairngorms or on the West Coast (Nevis, Glencoe, etc.)
We will go where the conditions are best.

Cairngorms
In the Cairngorms we normally stay at the comfortable Aviemore YH. Close to all of Aviemore's ammentities. If you haven't stayed in a hostel for many years then you will be pleasantly surprised on how much they have changed.

West Coast
In Fort William or Glencoe we use a variety of Hostels and Bunkhouses, depending on vacancies available. Being a very popular area bed spaces get filled quickly in the better hostels so it is wise to book as early as possible to secure a comfortable bed.

Prices per night are around £10.00 per person (self catering - recommended)
Alternative accommodation can be arranged - from Hotels to Self Catering Cottages and Chalets. Remember that being flexible ensures the best conditions, tying oneself to a single place may not be the best solution.
Please try to book as early as possible to avoid disappointment as our courses are very popular and dates fill quickly.