An Alpine season in the life of a guide…OR…
Don’t talk about it, get it DONE!
The Year 2000 – what a thought? And what was it going
to be like in Chamonix again in this special year. I was
programmed for a longish stint of guiding work but looked
forward to doing lots of great climbs with many varied climbers.
I love Chamonix! The actual event?
Read on and see the results…
June 26th – 30th
Andy Lawrence, and Chris Hill joined me at the Belvedere
and we had a great opening day on L'Index, always a solid
route and a lot of fun. Next day we went up to the Albert
1st hut and onto the glacier for crevasse rescue
training. The Aiguille du Tour went smoothly, not surprising
with strong young lads with me. We continued over the East
Ridge of the Tete Blanche as an extra and returned to Argentiere.
The weather dipped a little and Andy called it a day. Chris
and I climbed at Vallorcine, Chris doing some fine leading
of the big groove! There was just time for a final route
on the 30th. What better than the Cosmiques Arête.
A smooth ascent in a rapid time showed Chris’s good
adaptation to alpine climbing. He was due back for more
in August and was looking forward to it.
July 1st – 13th
What next? I considered this a “first”! My 16-year-old
daughter from North Wales came out for a holiday and we
had some great fun, on telepheriques, down to Annecy and
lots more. I then flew back via Easyjet to Liverpool and
Clare and the kids joined me for a week in New Brighton
and Blackpool (did you know you can buy top rate CD’s
from the promenade for only £3?)
July 15th – 16th
I arrived back in Chamonix on the 14th, and,
working for another colleague, (Russell Brice) was soon
at the Cosmiques, A 1:1 with Jenny, part of a large group
from a company called 'Pret Mange', producing very GREEN
food. The team’s intention was to go for Mont Blanc
but the weather had been so bad while I was at Blackpool
and lots of snow had made most routes dangerous, However,
even with these non-climbers a great day was had
on the Cosmiques Arête, possibly Scottish grade 2.
July 18th – 19th
Damien and Joe, both teachers from Co. Antrim had been
to the Pyrenees with their families, wanted a smooth trip
up Mont Blanc. From their wonderfully-placed chalet in Sallanches
they could look up the valley, see the tracks on Mont Blanc,
and dream of the day they might be there themselves. The
trip went without incident. Day 1, up to the Tete Rouse
Hut. Day 2, a very early start, across the Couloir, up past
the Gouter Hut and on to the top of Mont Blanc. A great
ascent. Down to the Gouter Hut by 11am and a peaceful afternoon
(but noisy night) there. Day 3, an early start and down
to the valley. Great climb, good company and celebrations
continued in Sallanches.
July 23rd – August 4th
The
plan had been to climb with Geoff and Eileen Hill, spending
time in the Valais region and other, less crowded areas.
Eileen had to pull out for family commitments but Geoff
and I continued with a slightly adapted programme. Geoff
play an important part in a Paper producing company in Surrey.
We had a good warm-up in Argentiere with the Petite Aiguille
Verte, always an excellent start for acclimatisation, skills
and fitness. Some good rock climbing at La Fayet came next,
getting Geoff to complete ALL the routes on the newly opened
Left hand slab. Great climbing.
Then it was off to
Sass Grund and the Hohsass Hut. The Weissmeis (4023m) went
easily for Geoff, but a great exercise for acclimatisation.
We descended to the Wiesmeiss Hut in the afternoon. An early
start next morning took us up the moraine and onto the ridge
of the Laginhorn (4010m). We descended down to the middle
station of the cable car and were soon on our way down to
Sass Grund. A brief rest and off to the Britannia Hut for
the Strahlhorn (4190m) and hopefully the Allalinhorn (4027m).
The Strahlhorn proved tough for Geoff (and for me if I’m
honest – but I’m not so it was easy!) Quite a
long way up the glacier in deep snow and a biting wind proved
hard going. With the col reached the description in the
guide proved very cruel. “Follow the short ridge to
the summit” proved to be an understatement. Still we
battled on and the final rocky ridge at the top was a blessing.
Not over yet though. The long descent was tiring and the
Britannia Hut was a welcome sight. Decisions, decisions.
A change of plan was called for. Back in Sass Grund, resting,
enjoying good food and comfort, care of Zubriggen Sports
and the dortior with its connecting hotel services. Fabulous
service, and great, great food, all at a very modest price
(certainly unexpected for Switzerland). Back to Chamonix
and some shorter, less snowy peaks or climbs. Indeed, Geoff
‘s prowess on the rock was still to be proven but it
was beginning to override any ideas of snow routes, in favour
of routes with a more rocky nature.
The classic route on L'Index was super climbing, made easier
for Geoff with his rock shoes. An attempt at the great classic
Midi-Plan Traverse was on the cards. In superb weather we
inched our way along the beautiful snow arête until we reached
the abseil descent. Geoff’s breathing at altitude was
still troubling him and, together a little uncertainty of
his skill at re-climbing the snowy rock step, a return journey
from this point was called for. Having wanted to go the
Cosmiques Hut that afternoon, for an ascent of the Cosmiques
Arête the next day, we continued with our plan. However,
reaching the hut, it was still only mid-day and after a
drink and some soup, I persuaded Geoff he really could do
the climb in less than 4 hours, giving us an extra one-day
route on the morrow. Under 4 hours? He flashed it in 2 ½
! More great rock climbing followed next day with an ascent
of a superb 6-pitch route on the Dalle Brun, the lower slabs
of La Floria, from the Index cable car terminus. Steep slabs
with intricate finger work proved a delight and Geoff did
very well. We had a rest day (at last) because of a wet
day, and with continuing bad weather, the following day
saw us in Martigny at the climbing wall. Every line on the
wall fell to Geoff’s now improving rock style. Pressure
from business, coupled with another bad forecast, prompted
Geoff to call it a day early and after a few ‘phone
calls. He flew out bound for home. A great session though.
August 6th – 15th
Pete Sherwood, a teacher from Flakwell Heath in Bucks.,
and Dave Armstrong, a carpenter from Carlisle, looked menacingly
fit when I met them at the Belvedere. Their ten-day Mont
Blanc course promised to be a tough time for me. (They looked
like SAS guys in disguise!)
A day on the Guide’s Crag proved useful for techniques
training and ropework. Complete with rock shoes and chalk
bag, we repeated the slab route on the Dalle Brun but then
continued along the Aiguilles Crochues Traverse and down
to Lac Blanc. Acclimatising and getting fit was the order
of this day so we walked down to Argentiere via Le Chesery.
A great ascent of the Petite Aiguille Verte followed, together
with the distinction of being the only team to fully complete
the final section that day, which incidentally is the best
part! Off up to the Albert 1st Hut and an ascent
of the Aiguille du Tour. The continuation to the Tete Blanche
summit by the East Ridge was a little tiring, but we were
happy when we topped out. Nothing, I repeat, nothing is
as good as our next rock route. We cruised in rock shoes
to the top of the Chapelle de la Gliere and whooped our
way down to Argentiere. Continuing with a “lets cram
as much as we can in” attitude, we completed a rapid
ascent of the Cosmiques the following morning. Now for the
big one! Off up to the Tete Rouse Hut and a poor, even shorter,
night’s sleep. The ascent of Mont Blanc went steadily
enough but there were signs of tiredness creeping in. To
no avail though, as we stood on the summit of Western Europe
in great weather. Back down to the Gouter Hut and after
a night’s rest, back to Argentiere. Success is sweet.
Commiserations to Gerry Paine, who should have been with
us. We felt for you as we topped out on the ‘Blanc.
A few days rest for me and then of again on another 10-day
Mont Blanc course.
August 20th – 29th
This time it was a larger group, requiring the assistance
of my colleague and aspirant guide Jamie Holding. The team
were from diverse backgrounds, Chris Hill, who had been
with me in late June, was working in a Gent’s outfitters
in the north-east, and in between the June course and now,
had spent two weeks in Austria, doing lots of crevasse practice
session. Insatiably keen, he is developing into a good alpinist.
Jim Horsington, who had been to a Scottish winter course
with me last season, was a farmer from Dorset and was continuous
jokingly questioned about his prowess at driving his combine
harvester! Dean Dorrell from Beenham in Berkshire, had retired
from the city and having been a top class rugby player,
he looked mean and ready for Mont Blanc. Martin Wilson,
a top class chef from London and having climbed the Matterhorn
(Hornli Ridge) this time last year, felt he would be up
for the course and the ‘Blanc, but his breathing was
to let him down at the last minute. Mike Johnson, a student
from Newcastle, was from Newcastle and a T.A. man, strong
and fit and ready to go. Finally, Jon Randal, a student
from Harpenden, had big ambitions for everything outdoors
and would, after the climbing course, enrol and take the
necessary steps to solo Parapenting, the course being held
in Chamonix. So that was the team. Assisted by Jamie, his
wife Rosemary, and the very nice French guide, Gilbert (pronounced
Jilbear), the usual programme resulted in all but Martin
topping out on Aiguille d’Argentiere (Milleau Glacier)
and Mont Blanc. he
preparation for the lads to be ready for the ‘Blanc
followed the usual pattern of routes and venues: Guides
Crag, Mer de Glace for crevasse rescue and ice craft training,
Traverse of the Aiguilles Crochues, Aiguille du Tour via
the two cols, a great addition to the normal routes being
an ascent of the Aiguille Argentiere by the Milleau Glacier
route, and finally, Mont Blanc, the latter two routes sadly
without Martin. Thanks Gilber, Jamie and Rosemary for your
help and company – more next year! A
August 30th – September 3rd
No peace for the wicked, as they say. Shane Maloney, a
male nurse, from Knaresborough, returned again to the Belvedere,
this time his eyes were on a developing alpine skills course
and hopefully resulting in an ascent of the Forbes Arête
on the Chardonnet. It was not to be however. The weather
took a slight dip and although we repeated the Dalle Brun
slab route, followed by the Aiguilles Crochues? traverse
and then the Petite Aiguille Verte in very wintry conditions,
Shane’s pre-occupation with his recent purchase (a
new house!) was proving too mind consuming for him to concentrate
on the plan in mind. After a longish walk across the Aiguille
Rouge, the weather and situations called for a rest day
before the course officially ended. Next time will be different,
Shane! Regards to Pippa and happy house-owning!
September 4th – 8th
The BOYS arrived in town along with my friend and
colleague Ron.
Eddie, Mike, Paul and Gary Atkins, all from the Basildon
area and with diverse backgrounds but a fondness for good
food, good fun and lots of beer (my kind of people). The
plan was for me to take Gary on a campaign designed to overcome
his fear of heights and the rest of the team to climb with
Ron. The initial climb (L'Index) went well enough, Gary
overcoming some moments of doubt, on the ascent and perhaps
more so on the lower-of descent. However, an attempt at
the Petite Aiguille Verte proved too much, although I’d
add that the loose snow on the rocks did make the climbing
much more like a Scottish 2/3. So back to the foundation
of all aspects of our great sport – rock climbing.
On arrival, Ron and all the team had visited the Guides’
Crag and done lots of top-roping. That first day, Gary had
backed off a route on the left-hand section, when the angle
had increased and the finger and footwork required reached
around the 4c/5a level (understandable really!) After 6
or 7 routes with me on the main crag, we visited the left-hand
section and Gary FLASHED the route! Good man! The final
day, spent at Vallorcine, was a great day. With Gary taking
a rest day, Ron and I climbed with the lads on the ever-delightful
slabs and corners, all in great cool conditions. As the
sun slowly came around and began to bake the crag, we called
it a day and retired for a beer or two. Commiserations to
Nick Drury, who should have been with us. We thought of
you each time we sat down for a pint!
Chamonix in the year 2000. I enjoyed it. I hope you all
did too. Don’t forget the winter climbing in Scotland
this season and I look forward to seeing you all either
then and/or in the Alps in 2001.
P.S. Got back on the 9th (a Saturday). Had Sunday
off and then from Monday to Friday did:
Old Man of Stoer, One VS and two HVS’s on Creag Dhu,
4 out 5 pitches of Spartan Slab on Etive (it even stopped
me, the slime that is!) and 5 routes over two days at Poldubh