A truly high quality alpine rock and ice tour in spectacular surroundings.

(A sample itinerary)

We rendezvous at the campsite in Vicosoprano near San Moritz and check out the atmosphere of this Italian-style Swiss area, getting supplies and checking equipment. We then make the steady walk up to the Sciora Hut (2118m).

Our first foray is to climb Piz Gemeli via The Flatiron. We'll do the first superb ten-pitch section to where the climbing becomes loose and unpleasant and then abseil back down the bolts to the 'sacks and on down to the hut. Wonderful 5a to 6a rock climbing!

Next day we head for the Piz Badile (3308m), the most famous of all the Bregaglia peaks. Traversing across and under the famous north face we drop down to the Sass Fura Hut (1904m).

After a night in the hut we ascend the North Ridge of the Piz Badile which is arguably one of the best rock ridges in the Alps. From the summit we descend (on the south side) to the Gianetti Hut (2534m) and spend the night here. In the morning we will traverse over two cols to the frontier, and down to Vicosoprano and the campsite.

When all campsite duties are complete we take a short car journey to Pontresina and take the cable car to the Diavolezza Hotel (2973m) with its a dortior accommodation. We are now perfectly placed for the ascents of the snow peaks to come.

From the hotel we climb easily up to the east peak of Piz Palu (3882m) and without losing any height we traverse the central peak (3905m) and across to the west peak (3823m). Continuing even further along the ridge we cross the four summits of the Bellavista (3804m, 3888m, 3892m and 3922m). That’s six summits in a row!

We descend to the Fuorcla Bellavista (glacier pass). The descent of the Fortezza North Ridge is followed to a glacier traverse and short ascent up to the Diavolezza.

What a great day!

Piz Bernina (4049m)

Our final route of this wonderful odyssey is arguably the finest of our itinerary.

This majestic peak is the monarch of the Bernina Alps and the much sought-after Biancongrat ridge is one of the finest routes in the Alps. The route takes the very fine snow arête (with a rocky finish) to this majestic summit. Descending the normal route (the Spallgrat) we again emerge on the Fuorclaz Bellavista. After descending the Fortezza North Ridge we again go across to the Diavolezza and down to Pontresina, where celebrations mark a superb climbing trip!

This circa two-week tour would commence and end in Chamonix with the drive to and from Vicosoprano along the rapid Italian autostradas, and allows some time for bad weather, even maybe some valley rock climbing (Mello is very nearby with wonderful bolted granite slab climbing), and maybe a rest day.

Course dates - 14 days programmes - available from June to mid-September

Ratios - One guide to two/three clients.

If you want the rock trip of a lifetime, contact Smiler for more details.