The Eiger - The magic of the word!

One of the World’s most sought-after mountains. So much history, a magnet for all climbers.

The North Face is a possibility, but only for the more ambitious and experienced alpine climbers. Yet the following routes, after a period of alpine training, are a more realistic option.

The South Ridge

Since the demise of the West Flank route, the South Ridge has become the most straightforward and safest routes by which to conquer the Eiger’s fabled summit.

Travelling from Grindelwald through the Eiger itself to the Jungfraujoch by the mystical mountain railway (in itself an adventure), we disembark and survey though the fantastic picture window, almost the whole seemingly of the Bernese Oberland. A short hour sees us ensconced in the Monchjoch hut ready for the bid day ahead.

Leaving early, we cross the Monch col and descend snows before re-climbing back up to the start of the south Ridge. Moving carefully along some narrow sections, we climb and descend the two Eigerjochs. Immense limestone towers barring the way to the easier ground ahead. Reaching the col overlooking Eigergletcher itself, we scramble on and up, reaching the summit of the Eiger.

It’s difficult not to spend too much time here, savouring the exposure looking down the Eigerwand itself. However, we must move on, and we descend the same way, a couple of easy abseils avoid difficult down-scrambling, until finally reaching the Monchjoch Hut. A warm Gluvine inside us, we cross to the Sphinx Tunnel entrance and take the next train down to Grindelwald and some well-earned celebrations.

The Mittellegi Ridge

One of the great mixed/rock climbs of the Bernese Oberland, definitely NOT spoiled by some fixed ropes to aid progress to the summit. We will gaze down the mighty north face, and dream....

Again, taking the Grindelwald train towards the Jungfraujoch, this time we disembark at the Eismeer station and exit through the famous ‘Eiger Window’ onto the glacier. Crossing to the rock band we then slant up and across to the Mittellegi Hut, our evening accommodation and base for the ascent.

Superb rock climbing on the limestone ridge (with some fixed ropes to aid our progress) lead to the final snow arête and the summit. We gaze at the summit slopes of the Eigerwand itself and dream of other climbs. Reversing the south Ridge, we arrive back at the Sphinx tunnel entrance and our awaiting train back down to Grindelwald and some well-earned celebrations.

After some well-earned celebrations we follow the South Ridge, itself quite a journey, back to the Jungfraujoch and take the train to Grindelwald, maybe with a cool beer at Kliene Scheidegg on the way down. Future plans are in our minds at this point, as we gaze up at the legendary north face.

Course fees for either Eiger route:

Acclimatising and training  (3 days): £750 + all expenses

The Eiger- (2 days): £650 + all expenses

Total: £1400 + all expenses