Ben Nevis

The greatest of all winter ice climbing locations in the UK. The often poor weather and hostile environment only adds to the elation of success on the Ben. Many climbs are possible in all conditions, on the day the choice is yours.

Below are some of my favourite climbs. Usually the short days enable only one of the longer, great classic routes to be climbed, and, as the old adage says “if you don’t come back to the car in the dark, you haven’t had a good day!” All grades, from I to V are offered.

Tower Ridge (III/VI) - arguably the greatest ridge climb on the Ben, and one of the most famous winter routes in the UK. Long stretches of moving together on straightforward ground are interspersed with more technical sections. Superb scenery throughout.

Ledge Route (II) - the best route at this usually straightforward winter grade. A circular tour of Carn Dearg buttress with ramps and gullies, and an alpine finish.

The Curtain (IV) - two wonderful and steep ice sections provide a fantastic introduction to the steeper Ben Nevis routes. Ice climbing at its best. A second route in Corrie Na Ciste is always possible to round the day off or reach the summit.

No. 3 Gully Buttress (III) - at first glance, seemingly uninteresting compared to some of its obvious neighbours, this fantastic route winds its way through spectacular scenery with great ice climbing throughout, with a superb and exciting finish.

Green Gully (IV)  - the right-hand of the two classic gullies surrounding Comb Buttress. Superb and technical ice climbing leads to a choice of finishes, each one providing a great end to the route.

Comb Gully (IV) - this classic gully on the left-hand side of Comb Buttress gives a splendid climb with several technical pitches on steep ice.

Garyloo Gully (II/IV) - one of the most famous and great classic gullies, climbed in 1896. The climb is located high on the mountain where the conditions are always dependable, and the grade will depend on the build up of snow near the famous chockstone near the top. Whatever the conditions, a great route to the very summit of Britain.

Point Five Gully (V) - without comparison, the greatest winter route of the UK. Stunning ice climbing, steep and uncompromising, leads the climber in four big pitches to the easier finish, where you ‘whoop’ with delight at what you’ve climbed. Don’t expect a short day!

The Cairngorms

Due to it’s location on the north-east of the UK, the cold winds of the the Northern Corries guarantee good conditions no matter what the weather. Because of the short approach and relatively short climbs, two or more routes are possible in a day. Thus, one can be on classic routes, steep ice, on a mixed buttress, and in a quality snow gully, all in the same day.

My favourite ‘enchainments’ are shown below, but there are many variations possible, in Corrie an t-Sneachda and further across to Hells Lum and beyond.

For the not-so technical climber -

Ascend Aladdin’s Couloir (I) - a long but superb introduction to the climbs in the corrie. Then down the Goat Track (the easiest route from the plateau), and across to Central Gully (I), a little steeper but great fun.

For the more adventurous -

Starting with Spiral Gully (II) – great mixed climbing and a superb gully finish, we then descend the Goat Track and cross to The Runnel (II), this superb and well defined line giving four pitches of great climbing, with the technical crux near the top. If there is any daylight left, we have the opportunity of climbing Goat Track Gully (II), rounding the day off in the evening moonlight.

For the more established winter climber -

We warm up on the Mess of Pottage Buttress with Hidden Chimney (III) - with its technical but short pitches which lead to the fabulous and athletic chockstone pitch to finish. One of the best routes in Scotland. Cross the plateau and descend the Goat Track, this time turning into Red Gully (III), more technical than those climbed so far but a fabulous and intricate route. Across and down the Goat Track, and over to Invernookie (III-4), different in everyway to those done before, as technical and iced up rock lead in several pitches to the Fiacaill Ridge (I) which can be finished off to the plateau, or descended easily back to the car park, finishing off a great day

For the most adventurous -

Pick off some of the great, harder climbs in Corrie an t-Sneachda.
Choose from The Message (IV-6), Aladdin’s Mirror Direct (IV-4), Broken Fingers (IV 4), Fingers Ridge (IV-4) and many more.

Or travel further into the wild Cairngorms, to Hells Lum, where there are routes such as:

Deep Cut Chimney(IV-4), Kiwi Gully (IV-3), Auld Nick (III), The Screen (IV-4) and the superb, but easier Escalator (II).